4KSRS22QDA00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

I backed out the 2 top screws about a quarter inch and then removed bottem screw with a quater inch nut driver. I then lifted Ice Maker clear of the two top screws and lowered it enough to unclip the power connection with a small screwdriver. The new Ice Maker was wired correctley for my refrigeator so all I had to do wea reconnect the power connection and mount new Ice Maker on the two top screws and install the bottem screw. It took e while for the new Ice Maker to start it's cycle but after it did, it worked GREAT. Part Select service was OUTSTANDING, ordered part one day and received the next. THANKS!!!!

Removed Ice bin from Fridge

Removed all bolts on bin with nut driver...about six

Removed housing...be careful with spring on crusher/cube control rod

Removed C clamp on end of auger with small slotted screw driver and needle nose pliers.

Removed plastic nut on end of auger shaft

Removed Ice crusher jaws and laid them out in the correct order

Removed Ice propeller and installed new part

Put back together in opposite order

Easy

I am NOT a handyman, and my family laughed at me when I said I was going to fix the ice maker all by myself. I ordered a replacement ice maker. When it arrived, I opened the box and read the instructions. It seemed easy. I removed the old ice maker, with a socket set. I then took off the shut off lever from the old one and placed it on the new one, since the new one didn't come with it. I then put the new one in place. All the parts fit perfectly. The ice machine was making ice within an hour. My family was amazed... and I got the last laugh!

WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.

The repair was very simple.

1. Remove the food from the door shelves.

2.Remove the door by first removing the three screws holding the hinge at the top of the refrigerator.

3. Lift door off of the bottom hinge.

4.Replace bottom CAM on bottom hinge (one screw)

5. Replace top CAM and shim on door (one screw)

6. I put a little grease on the cam to make it slide better.

7. Place door on bottom hinge. Remount top hinge.

8. Done and works better than new.

Removed 2 screws holding water fill tube to rear of refrigerator and pulled out, matched old part with new to make sure of proper match. Guide new fill tube thru hole, making sure it is aligned with slot in ice cube tray on inside of freezer. Install new plastic line from water pump outlet to water fill tube, check for leaks, job done.

I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing the front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.

first I backed off top two screws and removed bottom screw. unplugged wire harness. removed old icemaker. harness on new icemaker was the same. plugged in hung new icemaker on top two screws installed bottom screw. turned water on job complete and very easy. I was very satisfied with the whole process.

The easiest thing to do was pull the ice make off. After taking the 3 screws out of the wall of the freezer, take a screwdriver (flathead) and push on the tab for the electrical plug and wiggle the cord out. Then you can take 3 screws out for the main cover and another 2 screws on the next cover. There's the part, pop it out and replace holding pins and start the process of putting back together the opposite way you took it apart.

Was very confused when the part sent out looked nothing like the one it would replace. There was a note in the package saying that this would replace it but I was doubtful. Suggest that it be made very clear that this is an upgraded part to replace a bad design.Had not problem once i checked the website and found this to be correct replacement part. I didn't have any problem with the order of the crusher blades as once I removed the shaft nut I slid all of the parts in order onto the awl. Then it was a simple matter of sliding them off of the awl onto the auger shaft. The new metal auger works much better than the plastic one it replaces.

The hardest part was to figure out how to remove the old studs and put in new ones. I figured out finally that they should be twisted out and in., Simple online or printed insruction would be very helpful. Unfortunatelly the manual does not contain any repair information.
I fixed it with little trouble.

Remove the front panel strip where the temperature adjustment lights show, use a thin screw driver to pot the strip out along the top. Use a nut driver to remove the control panel which contains the light, two bolts on the under side, two bolts on the front after the panel strip was removed. The control panel will hang down enough with the wires attached to allow access to the thermostat. Use a Phillips screw driver to remove the side cover where the temperature probe runs along the left hand side to the unit, one screw. You will find the temperature probe inside plastic tubing running to the back of the unit where it is wrapped around a Styrofoam holder with three plastic retainer clips on the top and bottom. Unplug the thermostat from its electrical connection. You may want to unplug the unit’s wall plus as this is 110 volt connection. Remove the two screws holding the thermostat to the plastic control panel; remove the fiber optic connection to the light strip that runs across the top of the thermostat. Remove the temperature probe from the 6 clips and pull the entire unit out. Remove the plastic tube from the old temperature probe and slide it over the probe from the new thermostat. The probe is approximately 26 inches long and you must take care not to crimp it as you slide it in the plastic tubing(warm the plastic tube with a hair dryer to reduce stiffness at the bend). Plug the wires into the new thermostat and reassemble.

I removed the 4 screws from the inside front of the container that held the ice maker shaft in place. This allowed me to remove the old broken container from the front assembly. It was just a matter of attaching the new container to the front assembly and sliding the new container back into the freezer. I am back in business and I couldn't believe how easy it was to make this repair. Shipping was very speedy and communication was fast. I will use PartSelect.com again and refer family and friends for a good deal.

First I removed the old lightbulb from the socket and replaced it with a new one to confirm that the bulb was not the problem. I then pryed the socket out with a flat-head screwdriver. I could tell that the socket was anchored in its hole with clips so it was relatively easy to pry it out. Once the socket was out, I disconnected the lead wires and ordered a replacement socket kit from Partselect. When the new one arrived, I reconnected the lead wires to it, snapped it back into its hole, screwed in a new lightbulb, and presto!! The light was back on with no further problem. Thank you, Partselect!! A $15.00 part saved me what probably would have been at least a $100. service call and heaven knows what the technician would have told me I needed!!!

Took all the screws out of the plastic shroud that encloses the switch .There only four that I needed to remove, were the two in front where the switches that go,they go in horizontally and two in the back with large washers on them that hold the back to the top of the box that go in vertically.The switch was a snap ( make that two snaps ) the wiring is almost self explanatory. then it gos back to the way you took it off. OH! and don't forget to turn the light bulb all the way back in to the socket , so the light will work after you take the time to install it yourself.I had the water supply line from under the box to the water dispenser in the door and the total bill on that was one hundred thirty seven and a hand full of change.Don't be afraid to do it yourself the savings is enough on one one item to make several months payments on a new one Randy the "Handy Man'