Models > 47-2848-23-04 > Instructions

47-2848-23-04 Tappan Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 47-2848-23-04 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 47-2848-23-04
1-15 of 239
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Loud Squeaking

  • Customer: Frank from Boyertown PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 244 of 252 people found this instruction helpful
1. Unplug dryer from outlet
2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs
3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way
4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel
5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom.
6. Rlease tension on drum belt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer.
7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum.
8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit
9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket)
10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer.
11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect.
12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside
13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.

Thermal Limiter opened

  • Customer: Stephen from Newnan GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 123 of 172 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged Dryer.
Opened top of Dryer, over the drum.
Removed Thermal Limiter.
Tested the Thermal Limiter - found it was open.
Checked all vents and exhaust tube for lint build-up.
Replaced Thermal Limiter.
Closed top of dryer.
Plugged Dryer back.
Tested Dryer - it works.

Dryer would not start

  • Customer: Stephen from Austin TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 52 of 53 people found this instruction helpful
I found a electrical diagram and some common problems on some websites which led me to check the thermal limiters. There are two right up top near the back of the dryer - one mounted closer to the heating coils and one mounted directly to the sheet metal on the inside back of the dryer. Using an DMM on the "Ohms" setting, I checked each sensor to make sure that they were "closed" (near zero ohms). Sure enough, the sensor mounted on the back of the enclosure was open (high resistance) which prevented the dryer from starting. To confirm, I shorted the two leads going to the sensor together temporarily and wrapped them with electrical tape and then tested the dryer - it worked perfectly. The part from Part Select was ordered and shipped very quickly. Since the sheet metal screws holding the sensor on were difficult to access with the drum in place, I used small machine screws/nuts to fasten the sensor - this allowed me to tighten the nuts from the outside of the dryer, making it very easy to attach.

Dryer drum would squeak and squeal until warmed up, but progressively got worse as the days drug on.

  • Customer: Chad from Glyndon MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
First pry up on the front edge of the top panel of the dryer which is held in place by snap in clips. Pivot the top open and support against wall or other taking care not to pull on wiring harness. Next remove the 2 screws that hold the front panel in place. These are located on the inside of the front panel. The front then snaps loose also. Remove the plastic drum stop located at the top edge of the front of the dryer. Next I removed the 3 drum screws located inside at the back center of the dryer. Next you can you need to remove the belt the motor located at the rear vent panel on the back. Slide the now loose drum out exposing the rear bearing. With a 5/16 end wrench, loosen the 2 screws on either side of the bearing retainer. Assemble the new bearing bracket to match the old one. Apply a liberal amount of supplied lubricant to the pivot ball and plastic retainer. At this point it was helpful to have someone at the rear of the dryer hold the new retainer bracket against the back of the dryer while I tightened the new bearing assembly in. Assemble dryer in reverse.

Dryer overheated and stopped working

  • Customer: Paul from Holiday FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
The first thing I did was cheked the electrical panel and breaker, then I checked the electrical cord, then I did check the motor on the bottom of the machine (that may be is the blower motor) looking for any indication of burned parts or broken, then I checked the on-off switch with a voltmeter looking for continuity and it was fine. Then I checked the timer switch and it was fine as well. Finally, I took the lid off the top of the dryer machine to check the thermostat and themal limiter fuse. The thermostat was fine but the thermal fuse was open. So after doing some research to understand how the fuse work I decided to place an order to get a new fuse. I installed it and the dryer started working again. After replacing the fuse I monitored the dryer machine while operating it and worked fine. Why the fuse was open or was damaged? It is the first time I have problems w/ the dryer. I checked the end of the conduct line that guide the air out and I noticed and have to clean the end of it because it was dirt. Because it was not completly clean, the dryer got overheated. It took me sometime to figure out the problem but I learned, save me money and the best part was that I do it myself : )

Drum would not turn

  • Customer: jeana from houston TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
remove the rear lower left vent cover to get access the belt tensioner and pulley. then pop the top section up with a flathead screwdriver in the front, freeing it from the popclips. Then remove two screws from the back side of the front section releasing the drum. loop the belt around the drum.

overheating, squeeking

  • Customer: Christine from Wheelersburg OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Unplung it, pop up the top and take it off, unplug the 2 plugs, take 2 screws out that hold the front door, take out the door. Get the belt loose from the back roller, pull out the entire drum. I changed all 3 thermostat, 2 in the back and 1 in the front, also change the rear bearing. Dryer works great now, no more squeeking and no more overheating it's like having a new dryer. I'm a woman and did it all by myself, save me a bunch of bucks!!!

Torn Lint Screen

  • Customer: David from Birmingham MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Actually, I didn't install the frame. I only needed the lint screen. So EASY, obviously... I just placed the new lint screen in the old frame. We had been messing around with the torn lint screen for more than one year. Installing the new part was as easy as ordering from PartSelect.

DOOR LATCH & DOOR STRIKE BROKEN ON DRYER

  • Customer: Bruce from Seminole FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 16 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
I REMOVED THE BROKEN DOOR LATCH & STRIKE WITH PLIERS. THEN I PUSHED THE NEW PARTS INTO PLACE

Dryer Squeaked

  • Customer: Edward from Carmel NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
UNPLUGGED DRYER.
1. I used a putty knife to pop the clips in the front. This allows the top to open like a car hood.

2. There are two screws one on each side holding the front to the body. Then there are clips which can just be pulled.

3. There are some electrical connections. I made a diagram and disconnected them.

4. The front slides up off two tabs at the bottom.

5. Peel and scrape off old felt. install new felt using high temp glue and clamps. The top one the plastic guides go to the top.

6. The belt has a tensioner on the bottom right and comes off easily.

7. There are three screws in the middle of the back of the drum. They were very tight and require a good phillips head screw driver.

8. Drum lifts out the front.

9. Unscrew the ball bearing assembly from the back, put the high temp lubricant on the ball.

10. Re-assemble in opposite steps.

Plug in and test.

My husband ruined the old latch by trying to shut the door too hard, and the old latch fell down into the inside of the dryer.

  • Customer: Michelle from Dallas TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I took the new latch out of the package and snapped it into place. It took about 15 seconds, and that included the walk to the laundry room!

Old Dryer drum veins degraded and broke down.

  • Customer: Alfred from Loveland CO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I opened the top of the dryer to gain access to the outside of the drum. Then I removed the screws holding the old drum veins in using the electric drill with the nut driver attachment. Then I positioned the new veins in place on the inside of the drum and replaced the screws from the outside of the drum to hold the veins in place. Then I replaced the top and was ready to go.

This is the third repair that I have done using parts from parts select. the other two repairs involved replacing electrical parts. Specifically thermostatic controls or swicthes. I am very happy with the parts and the diagrams provided on your web site without wich I would have had to replace my dryer a long time ago.

Old Idler pulley and door gasket were damaged and needed to be replaced.

  • Customer: Kathryn from Clinton MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
1) Removed rear louvered panel (used nut driver to remove two screws) to access damaged idler pulley. Pulled idler pulley assembly out of the slot of the spacer portion of the idler pulley mounting nut (screws into motor housing) and detached spring. Installation of new idler pulley is reverse of removal.
2) Removed door (6 phillps screws). Disassembled door by removing 2 screws that attach front and back plate of door. Reomved old damaged door gasket and installed new door gasket.

The dryer drum wouldnt turn

  • Customer: Kara from Beckly WV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Had to pretty much disassemble the entire dryer. The schematics on the web site made it a snap to do. One word of advice. I you have to replace the rear drum assembly, the drum has to come out the front of the dryer. Part select made this a very positive experience.

Wretched screeching noise

  • Customer: Paul from Broadalbin NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!

1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down
2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet.
3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face.
4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together
5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum
6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out)
7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer
8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time)
9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease
10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum
11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down
12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner
13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet
14) Put the cabinet back together
All Instructions for the 47-2848-23-04
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