47-2251-00-05 Tappan Dryer - Instructions

Almost exactly as per the videos available on the PartSelect web site. The only additional information that would help is that the vent on the back of the unit can be removed to allow for access to the belt spring pulley. This avoids having to reach around from the front of the unit and feel your way to remove and re-install the belt.

Removed rear inspection plate, removed pulley spring and one hex bolt, replaced in reverse order. Very simple removal and install for this. Glad to see that Part Select still had parts for this 22 year old drier.

1. Slid putty knife under each side of front of dryer to release lid.
2. Removed 2 screws from front of drum to release door assembly.
3. Removed wires from door switch.
3. Cleaned lint out of inside of dryer.
4. Removed old felt seals, upper & lower.
5. Removed old glue with goof off type remover.
6. Glued new seals on & held then in place with clothes pins. (there was enough glue in the tube that came with the upper glide for both seals)
7. Put dryer back together.
**Ensure you verify the correct felt seal pieces with the model number of your dryer, usually on inside of door.

Followed your website repair guides and the great belt replacement video.

Other parts used were; front lower basket seal, dryer seal, and dryer drum belt.

Had no problems except for keeping the drum belt idler pulley tension spring in place. Used the rear access panel to solve this issue.

John H.
Palm Desert, CA

1. After checking the Parts Select website for some useful information I unplugged the dryer.
2. I popped the two clips holding the top down and lifted the top up and out of the way.
3. I used the 8mm socket and screwdiver combo to remove the two screws holding the front of the dryer on. These screws are so close to the sides of the dryer that you need something very thin to seat the socket, it is so thin a small rachet would not fit.
4. Once the to screws are free to forget to unhook the two wires that lead to the automatic cutoff switch on the right. Label them and move them out of the way.
5. The front of the dryer should pivot forward and come right off. Don't forget about the two clips at the bottom, they are not really attached to anything and can be easy to lose.
6. Get your screwdriver and dive into the drum, on the back should be three screws, take those out.
7. Spin the dryer around and take off the vent cover in the lower left corner of the back of the dryer, watch out the socket is a smaller size.
8. Once inside there is an idler pulley like on the back of a ten speed bike, pull the tension out of it and take the drive belt off the pulleys.
9. The drum should be able to be pulled out the front of the dryer, set aside with the door. The screws on my dryer were so tight I had to use a hammer drill to remove them.
10. This is were I got stuck, no one mentioned how to get the bearing plate off, as if everyone would just know. You must lift up on the bearing plate and once it moves up then you can pull it out.
11. Use the 8mm socket to unscrew the old plastic bearing guide. The small metal clip on the back of the dryer will fall off with the grounding ball bearing.
12. With brum bearing kit in hand start off by putting as much high temp lubricant as you can into the bottom of the new bearing guide. I also use a little lubricant like glue to hold the new grounding ball bearing in the little hole on the back of the bearing guide.
13. Here is the tricky part you have to screw the bearing guide into the the dryer while simulaneously holding the little metal clip in place on the back of the dryer. I used duct tape to hold the metal clip and once the screws got started I just took the tape off.
14. Now you have to do the impossible, the bearing must be screwed to the drum. So unless you have 7 foot long arms you can't hold the bearing and drive the screws. Another problem is the bearing itself, the holes are not the same size as the original and they are not threaded. I stripped every screw that came with the kit trying to get them through the metal of the bearing.
15. With an unwilling victim holding the bearing steady I finally got a replacement screw to seat through the bearing. Once you get one the rest are easier.
16. You are ready to reassemble, after vacuuming everything ou, pick up the drum making sure the belt is around the drum about where it was when you took it off. Push the drum through the front of the dryer all the way to the back, aim a little high so the bearing can move down and seat in the bearing guide.
17. Tuck the clips on the front panel of the dryer into the bottom front edge of the dryer and the whole front should pivot up, when you get it almost closed you will have to lift the drum and set it on the front bearing in the door.
18. While holding the front of the dryer on you have to reach inside and get the 8mm screw started on the left or right, if you let go the front of the dryer will pop off and you have to start over with the pivot. Now is a good time to have a magnet on a stick so when you drop the screw or screw driver you don't have to take the front off to retrieve your tools.
19. Once the front is on reconnect the two wires to the switch in the front of the dryer. Remember the ones you were supposed to have labeled earlier.
20. Close the top of the dryer and spin the dryer around so you can reach inside the vent door and pull the tension pulley over and reseat the drive belt. Rem

First I unpluged the machine, then opened the top with a flat head screw driver. Then I removed the two screws inside, unpluged the door sensor. (makes it stop when opened) Removed old gasket, cleaned with emery cloth, cleaned the residue and applied the glue provided. Waited about 1 min. and applied the new gasket leaving about 1/8'' of it hanging over the door facing the drum.

Removed top cover.
Lowered control assembly.
Removed front door assembly.
Removed drum.
Removed heater assembly.
Removed support bearing and bracket using existing bonding ball.
Re-assembled in reverse order.

Popped in the new door catch! Tightened the hinge screws( which work loose and allow the door to droop. The reason the catch broke!) Also put red Loctite on the screws in an attempt to keep them from backing out again! Working great so far!!!

Don’t do like I did and undo the drummer from the back of that thing pulled off the bearing

The timing unit on the dryer no longer worked. I ordered a replacement timing unit which arrived in 3 days; followed instructions that came with the washer dryer combo and removed panels, replaced the timing unit and successfully tested. The installation of the replacement part took 35 minutes.

UNPLUG DRYER (this is key) Removed the top of dryer. used screwdriver and pliers to remove two screws and electrical connections then reinstalled new part stick the magnet behind the part to the back of the dryer to help control the small screws.

I used the percentage scale on this website to try and determine the likely cause. After reading several sites, I couldn't make sense of the timer not working on just one type cycle. When I got the dryer drum off, I could plainly see that one of the heater coils was broken. They get heat stressed and break down over time and a hard shake probably finished this off. This unit is 5 plus years old. It was Saturday and I had no heater, so I actually found it at a local parts supplier. Also replaced the drum bearing and the bearing cup in the rear along with the heater. BTW, a new heater comes with a HIGH thermal switch attached to it so don't buy it extra. The bearing cone also comes with a new bushing in the pack. I DID use the Thermal Limiter that I order from the site because I was already in there. Everything works great now. I may have gotten most off my parts elsewhere but this site was the biggest help of them all. I will definitely be back here again.

Replaced rear drum bearing, drum support bearing & drum belt. Still very noisy. Will order new motor & see if that does the trick.

Remove 2 screws from back of unit, remove top by lifting and pulling up, set aside. Using pliers,needle-nose, remove the 2 wires from switch, then using a magitized philips screw driver, remove 2 screws holding switch to back of unit, replace switch, reassemble everything. 20 minutes, boom, ur done, dry some clothes now

After unplugging the dryer, disconnecting it from the vent, and moving into an open work area, I popped the top open with the blade of a screwdriver, disconnected the two wires that connect to the door switch, then lifted the front panel (with the door) up and away from the drum. Next, I lifted the drum out of the worn rear bearing assembly and lowered it into the dryer in order to release tension on the belt. I then removed the entire drum by carrying it forward and out of the way. I then removed the old bearing assembly, which was loose and covered with metal dust. After cleaning the area with a dry cloth to remove the old grease and metal dust, and vacuuming all the lint off *everything*, I installed the new bearing assembly with a 5/16" nut driver, being careful to position the provided ball-bearing between the plastic bearing assembly and the outer clip. The little ball-bearing is very important, as it is the drum's only path to ground, and prevents the build up of static electricity as the drums spins. I then filled the new bearing assembly with the provided grease. Everything is easy up to this point, but the difficult part for me was removing the old hub from the drum and re-attaching the new one. It is held on by three screws and they become seated very tightly. After loosening them and removing the old hub from the drum, attaching the new one prvoed difficult as well, as the screw-holes in the new hub are not threaded to fit the screws. The screws muct be forced to cut a thread as you install them, which requires a great deal of force. After installing the new hub and putting the new belt (pruchased separately) around the drum, the next step is to reinstall the drum by lifting it in through the front of the dryer and positioning the new hub over the new bearing assembly and pressing it down into place. It will gently "snap" into place as it seats. Then, on the back side of the dryer, I removed the vent panel by removing the two screws that hold it in place and positioned the new drive belt (loosely dangling around the drum) over the motor's drive wheel and behind the sring-tensioned idle arm. Then it is a simply matter to reinstall the front panel by genly lifting the drum and sliding the door opening inside it, then reseating all the little clips that hold the front panel in place. I then pressed the top back into place, reconnected the vent hose, plugged it back in and checked for operation. My fifteen year-old dryer now works like new!