41744142400 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

My 10 yr old son removed the two screws, placed the new strike on, and screwed it back into place!! So easy a child did it!!

PartSelect had the part in stock, shipped that day. The part was delivered the next day, my wife had it installed and working when I got home from work.

I began by removing the seal from the exterior lip of the machine housing. I took a razor and removed any rubber and adhesive that remained on the unit.

Next, I remove the boot from the soap dispenser tube (located at about 11:00 of the opening) with a needlenose plyers. The manual recommends flattening a 3" copper pipe to fashon a tool to release the "bread tie" fastener. I can see why but patience with a needlenose sufficed.

I pulled the boot down from the tub housing (with much force) exposing the band that holds the boot in firmly. I one pull, both pieces came out. I could tell getting the new one is was going to be a chore.

I cleaned the area and after about 40 strenuous minutes of getting the new boot onto the tub, only a couple things remained. Even with help, be prepared to dedicate hours of frustration getting the band around the boot securing it to the tub. The working space is minimal and the task is virtually hopeless to slightly possible.

Once that's taken care of, you may feel like you can accomplish anything. The rest goes up in the order it came out. Make sure you slide the boot up as far up the soap dispensing unit as possible before securing the bread tie clamp.

Run the seal around, close the door and have one of you kids clean up the work area (and mop the blood, sweat and tears from the unit and the floor.

1. Removed bottom cover - torx driver and drill adapter.
1.5 Unplugged machine and disconnected electrical supply to old pump.
2. Removed flexible hoses with wrench.
3. Removed pump base from machine with torx driver - the hard part as small hands are needed
4. Connected new pump to machine base with torx driver - hard again.
5. Connected hoses - wrench
6. Connected electrical supply and plugged in.
7. Tested pump - very quiet again.
8. That's it! Don't pay a service guy $250 to do this. Buy the pump and do it yourself!

After accidentally dropping a crystal clock (don't ask) near the open door of the front-loading washer, the plastic striker broke and couldn't be repaired. Without this part being functional, the washer won't start because the door can't be secured.

I ordered the new part, and it arrived quickly -- that's really the story here.

Replacing it meant removing two screws, pulling the damaged part off, slapping the new part in, and replacing the screws. My 4th grade daughter could have done this one -- wish they were all that easy!

I'm glad the part came so quickly. With a local supplier, it would have taken four more days.

First of all unplug your washer from the power supply and turn off the hot and cold water supply. I removed the front lower panel of the washing machine with a philips head screwdriver. Next I removed the plastic pins holding the right side shock obsorber. This was a little difficult because the upper pin is in a tight location and there's not much room to push the pin out. I just used the flat end of a screwdriver and slid it in place. The pins take some effort to push out, mainly because you have to hold the little tab on the pin down while you push it out. The replacement shock seems to be better constructed. I just put a little Vaseline on the new pins to help them slide through the metal sleeves on the ends of the shock. You also have to pay attention to which way the sleeves go into the shock so you don't push them out when you install the shock.

Replacing the pump was pretty easy. The pump is right there in front fastened to the bottom plate with two philips head screws. Have some towels ready, because if there's water in the drum or hoses it's coming out when you remove the hoses. Take a pair of pliers, or channel locks and open the hose clamp on the big inlet line, coming from the drum and slide it back so you can remove the hose. Then do the same for the outlet hose on the left side of the pump. It's easier to do this before you take the pump off the bottom plate. Once the hoses are off, remove the pump with a philips head screwdriver. While you have the pump out of the way, feel around inside the square reservior at the bottm of the big inlet hose to make sure there's nothing in there that might get stuck in the pump. A large bobby pin had made it's way into my pump and damaged it. It had fallen back down in that reservior, so at first I couldn't understand why the pump wasn't working, til I found it in there. Insatllation of the new pump is just reverse of disassembly. After that turn your water supply back on and plug in power. You might want to cycle the machine before you put the front cover back on to check for leaks. Good luck!

I had called a repair man; and fortunately he never returned my call. After reading many of the reviews involved with the same problem, and wanting to use my washer, I decided it was easy enough to give it a try. And so it was. 2 screws in back removed the cover; and 2 screws in the front of the washer permitted the removal of the affected part. Removed three "plugs" from old; put them on the new part; replaced it back in the washer, and replaced the two front screws, which held it in place. Replaced top, securing with the two screws. And surprise - surprise -- the washing machine was working again! Your reviews were so helpful and encouraging --- that this really old lady decided to try it --- and like they all said "It was really easy to fix."

-Unplug machine and remove all water connections
-Remove back panel with power phillips screwdriver
-Removed some rectangular circuit box in the way of getting to one shock absorber (3 screws)
-Remove old shock absorbers with 1/2 inch socket (suggested in accompanying directions)- this took 2 minutes
-inserted new shocks as directed...this was the most difficult part, but used a hammer to bang into place.
-reinsert and screw down circuit box (or whatever it was)
-reattach back panel
-reestablish water hose connections
-plugged in and was in business
-had ordered a washer/dryer set for $1700 (at my parent's urging) and now can tell Sears to go pound sand!

Very easy, took off the lower front cover (two screws). Pump is on the right side up front. Took the two screws out that hold it down, unclamped the clamps inlet and outlet hoses. Put a towel under and around pump to catch water befor pulling pump out. Installed the new one in revers order.

I used a shop vac to remove the excess water which would not drain from the drum - this is key to not flooding your laundry room. I removed the 2 machine screws at the bottom of the front panel. The panel removes easily which exposes the pump at the front lower right of the washer. I disconnected the electrical connection on the pump. Using the shop vac I slowly removed the hose connectionns at the suction and discharge sides of the pump. Following the disconnect of the hoses screws hold the pump to the base of the washer. Upon removal of the old pump you re-install the new in the reverse order. One item to note is that I purchased 2 hose clamps to replace the spring loaded OEM clamps for the hoses - this greatly aids in reinstallation. Re-install the front cover and you are ready. Total time to repaire 30 minutes - very easy!

I started with a Phillips head Screw driver and removed the screws from the current Door strike and replaced with a new one. To replace the Door Lock and switch assembly I had to access the right portion of the door gasket which was a little tricky, as it has a wire ring around the gasket to keep it in position. It has never been removed so it was fairly stuck so I took some pliers to pull on the gasket and ring to loosen it up. Once I got it off I was able to remove the Gasket just enough to access the electrical components to the Switch assembly. I loosened the screws on the current switch assembly using a Phillips head screw driver and removed it through the access point then unplugged the current wiring harness from the switch assembly and plugged the new switch assembly in. Then I tightened up the screws on the new switch assembly. re attaching the gasket was possibly the most time consuming as there is a metal lip on the door itself that the gasket has to wrap around in order to re attach the metal ring and hold everything in place. I took a flat head screw driver and ran it along the edges of the metal lip while pulling the gasket to secure it around the lip then I wrapped the metal around the gasket to secure it to the metal lip in the door ( Note: the metal ring has a spring that should be positioned at the bottom of the door once it's installed correctly, you will notice the gasket is shaped at the bottom to allow for the spring) Once I completed that I made sure all screws where tightened and then checked the unit to be sure it worked properly. It is working perfectly and no more error message.

(1) Removed top of washer . (2) Open washer door . (3) Removed the two screws holding the Door Lock Sw while holding the switch from inside the machine . (4) Lifted the switch up to remove wire harness one wire at a time and reconnect to new switch . Double checked work and reinstalled switch . (5) Run washer machine make sure everything is back working . I need to add that the washer door needed to be adjusted . The bottom of the door was kicked out . Washer is now working .

With the help of PartSelect's diagnosting tool it was easy to find the right part. The part arrived very fast and the installation was "child's play" by following PartSelect's video. I must have saved > $100. Thank You very much. -Anna-

Thank you for this web site! A friend suggested the problem being the drain pump, but I was not convinced as the washer would still drain on certain cycles. I took the chance and ordered the part after reading like stories on this website. For the repair: don't forget to lay towels down or have a shop vac ready to collect the water in the lines! The clamps were somewhat difficult to manage as the space is tight, but I did get them off with a medium size adjustable wrench. Getting them back on was a bit more difficult; I gave up on one and put a new o clamp on. It's metal, so I'm sure I would have been better off using the plastic-coated factory clamps.

no problemO top loader. open top, disco two electrical plugs and a small hose, then remove two screws that hold valve in place and remove. Re install in reverse order. Thanks for your support Eliot in Alaska!