41739012891 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

It was easy to replace. Two screws hold in the part. I wrote down the model and serial number of the washing machine. I went on the website, and within a couple seconds I looked at the diagram and found the part that I needed. I paid for regular shipping and the part came very quickly. It was painless.

First I removed the two screws holding the door latch in place. I removed the broken door latch, cleaned the surface behind it and reinstalled the replacement door latch with the same two screws I originally removed from the door. Before completing the process I also examined the door to the front loading washing machine and noted the hinge and screws were loose. I tightened the hinge screws and closed the door. It worked great!

disconnected the power and water supply.

removed the back panel.

unscrewed the contol board that blocked access to the bottom of the shock absorber.

pulled the original pins out with pliers while pressing in the piece that prevents it from working its way out.

removed the shock absorber.

placed the new shock absorber in the bottom mount, put soap on the pin for lubrication and pushed it through the hole. Put the top of the shock absorber in its place and placed the other pin in.

replaced the control board and replaced the rear panel.

First I turned off the water and disconnected the hoses. I took off the back panel and unscrewed the 4 bolts holding the motor in place. The grounding screw was impossible to remove, so I had to cut the wire off. Took out motor and disconnected the electrical connector. Put new motor in (ordered new belt, figuring it would need replacing - was still in excellent shape, but replaced it anyway), bolted in the motor (socket set works best on further away bolts, screwdriver for closer ones). Put the belt on the motor first and then pulled it up over the side of the tub and turned the tub to get it around the whole tub - took alittle bit of turning to get it on. Plugged in electrical connector and screwed grounding wire into hole. Replaced back panel and water hoses. Got a bit dirty and sweaty but not too hard to do it yourself, as I am a 48 yr woman and don't usually do this kind of thing.

First of all the timer knob was very easy. My wife changed it in about two minutes. Simply spin the old off and the new on. Replacing the shell with the tub bearing is much more involved. Remove the rear cover, lower front panel and top. Remove belt from motor and then the motor itself. I used my cordless drill with a socket adapter and extensions to reach the screws. Disconnect the wiring and take the motor out of the machine. Disconnect the bellow type hose on bottom and small hose from the soap dispenser on top front shell. Support the drum on two 2 by 4's or 6's. Remove the top pins of the shock absorbers and lean back out of the way. The tub is now hanging on the top springs and is still held in place with the front boot. The boot needs to be seperated fron the washer with a single blade razor. This was the second time I did this repair so my boot came loose easily. With one person lifting the front and one in the rear lift the shell unit to remove the top springs. The bracket that keep the springs in place need to be removed prior to this.
Slide the tub unit out the back of washer. I placed it front down by supporting it on 2 by 4's. Remove the large rear pulley. This was tough as moisture had rusted it together. Apply pressure evenly around the pulley with small bars as you tap the slightly loosen bolt that hold the pulley on. This should work the pulley free. Using my cordless drill I removed all the bolts holding the rear and front tubs together and reassembled following the reverse of this procedure. One problem I now have is that the shaft of the stainless steel tub is worn and I still have noise. Again, this is my second replacement of this bearing each about 4 years apart. I will not do the repair again as price of tub and rear shell are to expensive. I was very satisfied after my first repair and encourage you to try before purchasing new.

Take off the back, one of the shock absorbers was broken, it was very obvious. Looked up part at partselect.com, very easy, ordered part, it came in 2 days, the repair took another 15 minutes. There were directions inside the repair part to tell you a trick to get the old one off. It worked like a charm. Why spend $200-300 or more on a repair on a $500 washer when you can do the entire job for about $30 and get it back working in 2 days!! No brainer.

My repair went well except I removed the rubber seal between the tube shell and front door, BIG MISTAKE! Next time I will leave the front half of the tube shell in tack in the washer and just remove the rear half of the shell. If it wasn't for having to reinstall the rubber seal between the tube shell and the front door, the whole project could have been down in under two hours.

Food for thought next time! :-)

disconnected fm water supply and electrical ckt
move washer fm beneath dryer (stacking config.)
removed back, found 2 broken shocks (round type) and 1 broken spring (left looking from back). checked online for parts and found your site. ordered and waited a few days.

back on task, removed controls (lower left corner) to reach pins, removed front lower panel, removed pins and broken remains of both shocks. removed broken spring. left remaining spring to keep tub suspended.

back on task when parts arrived. installed shocks --note that it was not clear that there are 2 shocks in each package (so i order 2 pkgs and now have 2 extra shocks --for next time it breaks away ;-)

crafted a 'hanger' with 10ga wire and 2x4 to permit tub to be supported and/or suspended without unduly stressing new components. attached both shocks being careful to follow instructions about alternating direction and orientation in relation to plastic bushing on the shock mounting points. removed remaining spring and used short length of 10ga wire to pull spring into position and lock.

re-assembled back and front cover... re-attached control circuit. moved closer to water and electrical supply and tested through 2 cycles --no problems found.

put back into position and leveled and locked.

works fine now.

This is the third time I have ordered parts from this company .I can't say enough good things about them from their fast shipping( always arrives sooner than they state)To the quality of the parts and the shipping packages.A first class operation from start to finnish.First step was to disconect power supply.Second was to remove washer drain hose from house drain.Third remove two (2) phillips head screws from front cover of washer ,located at bottom right and left side of front panel near floor.Lift front panel up to unhook metal retainers on panel that connect it to washer side panels.Use pliers to remove spring clamp from hose. Remove hose from washer pump. Remove clamp from hose,remove plastic retainer holding hose to washer bottom.Feed hose out the back of the washer through washer drain hose hole in the back pannel of the washer.Remove plastic retainer.Insert the new hose through the hole in the back pannel install the hose clamp and install the hose back on the pump.Relocate clamp on hose, take front panel,lift into place,push down to lock retaining taps into side cover slots replace the two phillips head screws.

Removed the entire front cover of the washing machine and dicoonected the springs that support the tub. Left the tub down and disconnected the struts and unhooked all the wiring and pulled complete tub out of machine. Removed all the bolts around the tub shell and split the tub shell. Remover the motor from the sheel to make it lighter to work on, removed the pulley on the drum shaft and pulled the drum out of the shell. Found that the cast alluminum spider was weakened by corrosion and this caused the spider to break. The spider itself should be able to be purchased seperately because the stainless steel drum was okay and could have been reused. The biggets problem I had was getting the tub back in the washing machine and getting it suspended by the springs again. I used a 6 x6 block and a 2 x 6 board to lift the tub up in the air to get the tub springs hooked back up. This took 2 people to accomplished. After the tub was suspended on the springs the rest was easy.

Great advice on your site.
Repairman "found bad motor control board" and gave me an estimate of $316.00 to repair. I figured that the $80 gamble was worth a shot. Took the top screws off, slid the top back and in less than 15 min. I had a fully functioning washer. Thank you.

I first removed the top and rear panels to expose the shell, then removed belt and motor. I used a 2 jaw pulley puller to remove rear pulley, there are 5 spokes in the pulley so the puller did not fit well but I managed to hook on the pulley and hit the puller with a hammer and it came off. A better way would have been using a 5 jaw puller and installing the bolt a few threads in the drum shaft to protect the threads. I removed the rear concrete counter weight then removed the lower shock absorber pins at the shell and placed shocks to the side, this left the shell hanging on the springs. I decided to split the shell in the machine to avoid removing the front half of the shell, so I removed 20 bolts holding the shell halves together [difficult] and propped the front half of the shell up on wood blocks to release weight on springs. I then removed springs because they hook into both halves of the shell. This freed the rear half of the shell with the drum. I took the rear shell/drum assembly and placed the shell on 2 saw horses with the drum shaft vertical and the drum hanging freely with cardboard on the floor beneath to catch the drum, then installed an old bolt in the drum shaft to protect the shaft and threads and hit the old bolt with a hammer driving the drum shaft from bearings. Do not hit the shaft directly with a hammer, it will dammage the shaft and the pulley will not go back on. I cleaned corrosion from shaft and seal area with very fine sand paper and lubricated same with oil. The drum shaft slid easily into the new bearings on the new shell and I reassembled the machine in reverse order. Thank you to the others who wrote about this repair. The information was very helpfull.
Jim Swanson

took out door lock and switch assembly replace with a new one and it work

Pulled off front panel and found broken shocks. Ordered from Parts Select and replaced within 15 minutes. It was a little tricky replacing as they came out due to poor access from the rear. Make sure to regrease palstic pins and she is running like new.

I read the input of others who had this problem with this washer and how they had replaced the door lock and switch assembly. I figured it was worth the $70-$80 part versus the $540 repair or purchasing a new machine. I was really happy with the machine until this problem occurred.
When I got the new part.....I unplugged the machine. Took out two screws in the back of the top panel. Removed the top of the machine. Took out two screws in the front of the machine that hold the door lock ans switch assembly into place. I unplugged the three wires from the old part (be careful not to drop the old or new part....if you choose to do this by reaching in from the top like I did for this repair.....easier than removing the entire front of the machine.)
I plugged the three wires into the new part and positioned the new part in the door lock position. Replaced the two screws. Put the cover back on the top and replaced the two screws that hold the top cover on the machine.
I was thrilled when it worked perfectly. What a relief!
Sure glad I looked at this website and tried this! The repairman really didn't know enough about my machine....obviously. I'd like to call him and tell what was really wrong so next time he'll know.