3ZAED4475TQ0 Admiral Dryer - Instructions

remove 2 screws from lint vent, use putty knife to remove top op dryer, remove 2 screws holding switch.

After I received the new belt I un-plugged the electric cord and shut off the gas supply. I pulled the dryer about 10 inches away from the wall to remove the vent duct from the back of the dryer. Used the putty knife to release the clips on bottom front panel and a screw driver to pop the front of the top at the left side and right side, removed the two Phillips head screws under the lint door, then lifted the top to the vertical position. Loosened the hex head screws at the bottom of the upper front panel (don't take them out). At the top back side of the front panel, pull off the electrical wires from the door interlock switch and pull the retainer holding the wires to the front panel (don't take the plastic clip from the wires.) Place some wood blocks to support the drum at the front of the drum. Use the nut driver to remove the two screws on the inside at the top of the front panel. Disconnect the two springs that hold the door closed. Lift the panel from the two loosened nuts at the bottom and pull it away from the drum and let the drum settle on the blocks of wood to support it. Place the new belt around the drum lining it up where the old belt left its mark around the drum with the grooved surface facing the drum. Replace the front upper panel with the door to engage to two tabs on the screws you left at the bottom. Lift the drum so that it engages with the opening in the front panel. In case where the drum had dropped too far, use the putty knife to engage the felt flange at the rear of the drum with the rear cabinet flange. Reinstall the two screws at the top that you had removed. Reconnect the two wires at the interlock switch and snap the clip with the wires to the flange of the upper front panel. Replace the door springs on the hinge extensions to the flange at the bottom of the cabinet. Set the Idler pulley assembly into the cabinet floor sliding the end tab into the slot and the two tabs fit into the holes in the floor. Pull a loop of the belt under the idler pulley and then pull it toward the motor pulley. You might use the shaft of your Phillips screw driver instead of you fingers to get it around the pulley on the motor shaft. Turn the drum by had for several complete turns to ensure that the belt lines up on the drum and that the drum isn't binding on the back or front seals. Close the top, snapping onto the top of the cabinet. Plug the dryer into the electric outlet and set the timer to Fluff Air range and push the start button with the door closed. The drum should be turning smoothly. Open the door and all should stop. Reconnect the Vent and move the dryer back to its former position. Turn gas supply on but do not start the dryer. Check for gas leaks. If you find a leak in either at connectors or the flexible connecter call a qualified contractor to replace the flex connecter. Otherwise you can then set for one of the dryer settings and push the start button and observe the burner through the lower panel to see that the igniter is lighting up and finally the gas turns on and a decent blue flam is burning in the combustion tube. Open the dryer door and the flame should cut off and the drum stop turning. You are ready to set the bottom panel. Set the panel on the two lower tabs and close it upward until the snaps lock it in position. Job Done

unpluged dryer from wall,lifted top of dryer unpluged door switch took out two screws that hold switch, installeed new switch, put top of dryer down, plugged dryer back into wall, very easy repair.

Verified that the heater element was working; drum and contents were getting hot. Could hear the thermostat clicking on/off as the element started to glow. Drum stayed very steamy the entire time; consistent with no airflow. Fan motor was running, dryer vent/line were clear. Verified cold (not hot) air from the external vent. Seals had degraded to the point that the fan was not drawing air from the drum, but from inside the dryer cabinet at the lower seal (by the fan blades); hot air was escaping from the upper seal and was causing the dryer cabinet to get unusually hot. Installed these 2 seals, and the dryer is working perfectly now.

TURN OFF POWER TO DRYER............................. Pay attention to where everything is as you take it apart, so it can be put back the same way. Take out the two screws by the lint screen. Use flat tip screwdriver between space in front of top to help lift top. Use rag on tip of screwdriver so as not to scratch it. Take out two screws inside the front panel at the top. One on each side. Unhook the switch wiring. Lift up the front panel to take off. The tub will be loose, so it can be taken out to inspect other components. Some call the tub a drum. Be sure to see how the belt tensioner is attached, so it can be put back on the same way, if it comes loose. It is under the tub. Take out old belt. Put new belt around tub. Make sure the tub sets on the two rollers in the back of dryer. While holding tub, put the belt around the grooved pulley on the motor. Grooves are face down against the tub. Feed belt through the tensioner. Put the bottom of front in on the tabs. Be sure belt is still in place around pulley and tensioner etc. Hold tub through front door and close front. Put the two screws back in on each side. Close top and put the two screws in at the lint screen. Done. Turn power back on. Turn on dryer to see if it operates properly. If not, check out your repair to see if everything is connected properly.

followed the video you supplied on your web site

Used PartSelect instructions for routing belt & a customer's valuable guidance.

I removed screws for the lint screen - TOP. Pry up top with screw driver. Disconnected inside top front 2 screws, removed door control wires, white and blue. Lift off front of dryer. Tip dryer back about 40 degrees against wall. Remove warn belt (not broken). Relocate idler bracket on the cabinet base, follow diagram which comes with the belt package. Be very careful that the belt is NOT on the side of the idler roller. I had to do this install a second time, because I had it wrong the first time. Even though I've done this repair 5 or 6 times, there's always a first time GOOF. Not really a hard job.

Just like the video showed, amazingly simple.

Threw away the printed instructions and followed the Part Select video ,featuring Steve...

Determine the problem, Lift top of machine, disconnect wires to door sw. Bypass the sw, and short the circuit, with piece of wire, push start, the machine worked..problem solved. Replace sw by removing 2screws ,attach wire connectors. Done job.

Well my husband did the install and he said it was very easy??

I watched you repair video and did as instructed. I used putty knife to pry open clips holding top down. Then a philips head screw driver to unscrew old switch and insrall new switch. Also putty knife helped to pry old wire harness apart.

Took old bearing off replaced with new

Watched a you tube video on replacing a dryer belt for a whirlpool dryer. Perfect instructions. Dryer is working great.Thank you