3XARG457WP01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.

first I diagnosed the problem with the whirlpool do-it-yourself repair manual, which was very easy to understand. as per the repair manual, "this part located on the evaporator or the back of the liner is used during the defrost cycle. This bimetal senses the temperature from the evaporator. When the temperature reaches 50-70 degrees (F) the defrost bimetal turnd the defrost heater off. " then I emptied the freezer. removed the the back panel to expose the evaporator. I looked for the bimetal defrost thermostat clipped on the evaporator. tested the bi-metal defrost thermostat, as per the manual, " the ohmmeter should show ZERO resistance (continuity). if not, the bimetal is bad and needs replacing." NOTE: the bimetal must be cold. it is also tested with the bimetal warm/hot, by running it under hot water. i used a styrofoam cup with hot water & dipped the bimetal in. as per the manual, " the ohmmeter should show an open circuit. if not, the bimetal is bad and needs replacing. then got online found partselect.com. ordered the part, recieved it in less than 2 days. within minutes after recieving the part, I removed the bimetal defrost thermostat and spliced in the new one. thanks to partselect.com my fridge is back up and running properly again. prior to installing the new bimetal, i tested it, as descibed above, you can hear & feel the bimetal open/close when it gets hot/cold.

First I removed the old lightbulb from the socket and replaced it with a new one to confirm that the bulb was not the problem. I then pryed the socket out with a flat-head screwdriver. I could tell that the socket was anchored in its hole with clips so it was relatively easy to pry it out. Once the socket was out, I disconnected the lead wires and ordered a replacement socket kit from Partselect. When the new one arrived, I reconnected the lead wires to it, snapped it back into its hole, screwed in a new lightbulb, and presto!! The light was back on with no further problem. Thank you, Partselect!! A $15.00 part saved me what probably would have been at least a $100. service call and heaven knows what the technician would have told me I needed!!!

Remove the glass shelf and the support frame. Bend the front clip on the track back far enough to fit into slot on frame. Insert the back end of the track into the opening at the back of the frame. Press the front end of the track into the retainer slot in the frame. Reinstall the frame and glass shelf. Done.

Glass sheet came in perfect condition, just put back in refrigerator and has been fine ever since. Not the first time I had ever taken out to clean, but it will be the last. From now on, I clean it in the refrigerator.

An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

After noticing my freezer was ice cold and the refrigerator was luke warm, I figured there was an airflow problem due to either a fan that failed or the evaporator coil iced over. Just by opening the freezer door I could hear the fan blowing so it had to be the evap coil. Sure enough after removing a couple screws and the back panel I saw the ice. I then unplugged the frige to let it thaw overnight. In the morning I inspected the coil and luckily noticed right away that this little piece didn't look right. The top of the bi-metal thermostat was raised up. Almost like it popped. I read the other reviews on this website reffering to using an ohm meter to see if it held continuity. Well it didn't because the piece really did "pop". The wire was severed. So the ohm reader read open even if the piece was warm. I ordered the part and in days was able to replace the part. NOTE TO BUYER. It did not come with electrical connecting nuts or whatever they are called. So you'll have to go to the hardware store and pick some up for about $2. Frige works fine now. Thanks parts select.

We took the edge out of the slot and pulled the old one off then put the new one on. Once we got the plastic edge started into the slot it was a breeze. Only took about 5 minutes. We were very pleased with the results.

Definatly a two man job. I suggest you put a pad down to protect your floor. Remove the filter, grill, and bolts per instructions. Everything is straight forward. Move the frame back 1/2 to 1 inch then tilt the frig back on it's side about 4 inches. If the frame doesn't drop down, move it back until the front of the frame comes of the front lip of the frig. Place a block under the frig lip NOT the frame and WATCH YOUR FINGERS. The wheel should be hanging down. Just pull out the pin, replace the wheel (make sure you have it facing the correct way) and tilt back and pull the blocks. Move the frig back in place and replace the bolts. Took me and a buddy less than 30 minutes.

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

We just had to find the trick to put it in where it would catch on and the rest was a piece a cake.

You had to put it in the groove where it would catch and snap it in place and the rest went in
pretty easy.

The only tricky part of ordering replacement drawers for this fridge is that the bottom ones are two different sizes so you have to be sure you order the right one. Measure the width and look closely at the exploded drawing to be sure you are getting the right one.

We decided to use our crisper drawers to store sodas. Duh..bad plan. The rail that holds the drawers up cracked in half. So we just had the drawers sitting on the bottom of the fridge. So, I got the new rail THE DAY AFTER I ORDER IT! I just recycled the old one, and slid the new one in. Presto. Perfect fit. Actually, better then perfect. There must have been a defect with my old one, because the new one actually SNAPPED into place, instead if just sitting in the frame. So..I am really pleased.

its not that hard to replace. may need help to tilt fridge on one side so you can get to the bottom to remove wheel.Had to undo all four corner screws/bolts to loosen bottom section and slowly pull out base frame which holds the 4 wheels. this frame is also holding the compressor and fan so be careful.replace wheel and slowly put frame back to position and screw back bolts. pull back fridge to upright position. leave unplugged for a day or two to allow gas to come back to normal level as we had tilted it.plug it back and it works.
thanks
Anoop