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3LWTW4705FW0
3LWTW4705FW0 Whirlpool Washer - Overview
Sections of the 3LWTW4705FW0
[Viewing 6 of 6]
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Washer
PartSelect #: PS11742027
Manufacturer #: WP3949550
This part goes on the agitator retaining bolt.
$7.69
In Stock
Touch-Up Paint - White
PartSelect #: PS385132
Manufacturer #: 72017
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is...
$8.00
In Stock
Suspension Rod Kit
PartSelect #: PS11703288
Manufacturer #: W10780045
This knob is a genuine OEM replacement part used in dryers. It is a white, plastic knob found on the front panel on the dryer. It allows users to choose the drying cycle, adjust temperature settings, ...
$82.23
In Stock
D-Shaped Knob Insert
PartSelect #: PS11746209
Manufacturer #: WP8536939
This insert is sold individually. Knob not included. Knob is sold separately.
$11.10
In Stock
Hose Clamp
PartSelect #: PS11740613
Manufacturer #: WP285655
The hose clamp is used to hold the water hose in place which will prevent the hose from leaking water. Sometimes the clamp may lose its ability to latch on, causing a leaking washer. For the installat...
$11.10
In Stock
Lid Hinge Mounting Screw
PartSelect #: PS11748588
Manufacturer #: WPW10119828
Sold individually. NOTE: The color on the screw may not be the same as the image, but will still function the same.
$11.80
In Stock
Drive Block - 2 5/16 Inch High
PartSelect #: PS11741977
Manufacturer #: WP389140
This part is for large capacity belt drive and direct drive appliances.
$23.77
In Stock
Lid Bumper
PartSelect #: PS11747040
Manufacturer #: WP9724509
This gray and white washer lid bumper contains a rubber bottom and is sold individually.
$7.95
In Stock
STRIKE
PartSelect #: PS11726338
Manufacturer #: W10837741
This is a lid strike for various models of top-load washing machines. Lid strikes are designed to engage with the lid switch and communicate to the control board that the washer can start. If your was...
$20.63
In Stock
Washer Drain Hose
PartSelect #: PS12578897
Manufacturer #: W11244231
The drain hose carries used water from the washer to your house drain.
$24.94
In Stock
Inlet Hose - 5 FT
PartSelect #: PS11746820
Manufacturer #: WP89503
This hose can handle hot or cold water and is five feet long.
$21.53
In Stock
Spray Paint - 12 oz. - White
PartSelect #: PS347819
Manufacturer #: 350930
Appliance spray paint is a great way to cover up any chips and scratches that have appeared on your appliances. Instead of replacing the part entirely, this is an easy fix. This is also a great way to...
$22.68
In Stock
Questions And Answers for 3LWTW4705FW0
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Common Symptoms of the 3LWTW4705FW0
[Viewing 7 of 7]Leaking
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Will not agitate
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Shaking and Moving
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Lid or door won’t close
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Will Not Start
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Spins slowly
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Locking Issues
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Scratches in Surface
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
Parts Used:
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Michelle from Richardson, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
65 of 128 people
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Shaking violently during spin cycle
Replaced the 4 suspension rods/springs. Only disconnect and replace one at a time. The tub will fall out if you disconnect and replace more than one rod/spring at a time.
Parts Used:
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Harold from MELROSE, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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washer not agitating
This was a learning experience but it appears to have worked out in the end. Our 3 1/2 year old washer was not agitating much and I attributed that to a loose bolt. I would tighten the bolt and it would work ok for a load or two and then stop agitating. I would find that the bolt was loose again. I took a number of steps to try to get
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the bolt to stay on tight - threadlock, a new bolt, more threadlock, and applying progressively more force on the bolt, with no better results. Yet the repair guys on you tube were saying the bolt only needs to be snug, not super tight - something was amiss. I even went so far as to secure the basket with a rope so I could use two hands on the socket wrench (please don't do this). But when I tried the washer again there was no agitation at all! I observed the agitation output in manual test mode and the bolt was turning in lock step with the shaft but the agitator wasn't turning at all. That's when I suspected that the problem was actually a worn lower agitator. Trouble was that now I couldn't seem to get the bolt off. Turning the wrench caused the shaft itself to rotate so I couldn't loosen the bolt from the shaft. I thought I broke the washer. Then I considered that maybe the shaft was rotating because the washer was in an agitation mode when I turned it off. I went back into manual test mode, made the washer spin, then turned it off. Fortunately, this worked. The shaft was again stationary and, albeit with great difficulty, I got the bolt off.
I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)
So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).
The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.
I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)
So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).
The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.
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Parts Used:
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David from EAST AMHERST, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
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