3LG5701XPW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Watch the video you sent me, and every thing fell into place

Initially confused by instructions provided in that it stated to loosen a brass coupler. Disconnected power. Removed front bottom panel. Disconnected both leads to ingiter. Removed the 2 screws holding igniter bracket in place. Carefully slid igniter and bracket forward and removed from dryer. Removed screw holding ingiter and replaced with new. Reinstalled in reverse.

Removed top and front of dryer. Removed drum. Removed old rollers from spindles. Installed new rollers and new retainer triangles. Replaced drum. Re-installed front and top.

I made it very difficult. I didn't research the repair. My back is old. It's easier if you just You Tube a video. The top roller you have to take drum completely out. The bottom one, The one that failed for me, you can actually do it without taking anything apart. Access it at bottom back, two holes. I do not have small hands, it would have been easier. Channel Locks inside, 9/16th socket outside. That will loosen main axle. Then use short screwdriver or socket driver on small bracket connected to bottom of unit. Mine had one screw holding it in. Easy bottom fix. I don't really recommend replacing top till it needs it. You can only buy them by the pair too. You will be ready when time comes. I found top roller didn't actually need replacing, did it cause I had it all apart. Don't fix if not broke, right? Trust, BUT, Verify. Smaller hands, would have helped me. All I got.

What a pain in the butt to route the belt thru the tensioner! There's room for only one hand in there. The guys who do this for a living must have some secret. My solution was to drill a 3/16 hole thru the side, make a j-hook from 8-32 threaded rod, use that and a wing nut to pre-load the tensioner, route the belt, then slowly back off the wing nut until the belt was tight. It works. . . .

Pop off the top , Then one screw holds each side . slide belt around drum and then preload tensioner as per instructions . Simple!

replace the burnt fuse.

After removing the back, I realized I absolutely did not know what I was doing. I went to google put in my model number, and went to your web page. The rest is history. Went to the video watched it and went back to the dryer and after cleaning up the back, put it back and removed the top and front as per video. The parts came in a few days and replaced the belt and idler arm n about 2 min. I am not kidding. The wife held the drum while I put the front back on. One thing I could not separate the door switch so I just unscrewed it from the fron panel. The dryeris 20 years old, and your web page will put the Maytag repairman on the unemployment line.

I followed the instructions on the Part Select website for drum support rollers and shaft. The videos were great! (There wasn't one for the right side shaft but I could extrapolate from the other instructions.) The hardest part for me was releasing the dryer top - the video made it look so easy but it took me a long time to get the little clips to release with the putty knife. Also, tightening the new right side shaft required the help of another person as my arms are not long enough to hold the shaft with pliers while I tightened the nut in the back of the dryer (and I did have to remove the back cover for this shaft). I would recommend to anyone even a little bit handy to attempt a repair following part select's videos.

I follow the instructions from the video sent to me with the email to tell me my new belt was shipped. Made the whole job go a easy as could be. Parts Select made fixing my dryer so simple and I also got the belt within 2 days. I recommend buying parts only from you! Glenn

The PartsSelect video was great. I'm not sure I would have figured out the trick for opening up this dryer without it. After that the main problem was getting goop off of the drum support roller spindles. This took lots of solvent and elbow grease. I think this was the main source of noise. The oil had turned to something like partly dried glue. They were very hard to turn. The belt was intact but badly cracked. The idler probably could have been oiled and reused but I already had the part so I replaced it. Everything went just like the video. The dryer now hums along like a new one!

Unplugged dryer, removed 2 screws under filter lid, removed filter, removed access panel on back of machine, removed blower motor housing, vacuumed all dust and debris from rear of dryer, turned dryer around and opened top of dryer using a small screwdriver to release the clips approximately 2" from either end, then securing top from falling by using bailing wire to hold it in place, disconnected door switch wiring harness, removed 2- 5/16 screws retaining front panel and removed front panel from dryer, removed drum from dryer, removed idler pulley from bottom of cabinet noting position of drum belt, vacuumed dust and debris from bottom of cabinet and around old motor, removed motor retaining clips rotated motor and removed wiring harness from motor. I then attempted to remove the blower wheel from the old motor and here is where the problem began. If your dryer has the original motor in it, or the motor has never been changed in it to the best of your knowledge, go ahead and order a new blower wheel with your other parts, because you will not get the old one off without destroying it. (this cost me several days to complete the repair). Do not use channel locks or vice grips to attach to the front pulley to remove or install the blower wheel... use 2 medium sized crescent (adjustable) wrenches otherwise the pulley will be damaged and you will have a lot of filing to do to repair it. (If you need to reuse the pulley. I did not as my motor and pulley was an exact replacement). I got the blower wheel off of the old motor by using a chisel and a hammer and cutting a hole around the attachment point on the motor shaft from the rear of the dryer. After this, the job was pretty easy. I put the new motor in the motor housing, put a crescent wrench on the pulley on the front of the new motor, then screwed the new blower wheel onto the motor from the back of the dryer. (remember, the blower wheel has left handed threads, so to install it you have to turn the pulley on the motor to the LEFT to thread it into the wheel.) After the blower wheel is installed and hand tight, use 2 crescent wrenches to tighten down on motor, (1 on the blower wheel hub where it is square, and 1 on the front pulley) rotate the motor down to the correct position for the wiring loom, (you want the wires to rest on the bottom of the cabinet when the job is complete)., then reinstall the motor retaining clips and attach wiring harness. At this point I installed new drum rollers, reinstalled the drum with a new drum belt, and replaced the idler pulley with a new one. (push the drum counter clockwise by hand a few times to center the drum belt and to make sure that the drum is on the drum rollers correctly). The front panel is now reinstalled being careful to make sure the clips on the cabinet engage the holes in the panel. Push back on the drum slightly and reinstall the 2- 5/16 screws to hold the front panel to the cabinet, then reattach the wiring harness for the door switch. Remove the bailing wire and close the lid. The blower wheel housing is then reinstalled, then reinstall the rear access panel. Reinstall the filter and the 2 screws under the filter lid. Plug in the dryer and your repair is complete. When a motor replacement is required, you are better off replacing the motor, blower wheel, drum rollers, drum belt, and idler pulley. I did and my dryer sounds and performs like a new one. My wife is absolutely delighted. I spent approximately $180.00 on the total repair while a new dryer would have cost me $600.00 + tax.

After I received the new belt I un-plugged the electric cord and shut off the gas supply. I pulled the dryer about 10 inches away from the wall to remove the vent duct from the back of the dryer. Used the putty knife to release the clips on bottom front panel and a screw driver to pop the front of the top at the left side and right side, removed the two Phillips head screws under the lint door, then lifted the top to the vertical position. Loosened the hex head screws at the bottom of the upper front panel (don't take them out). At the top back side of the front panel, pull off the electrical wires from the door interlock switch and pull the retainer holding the wires to the front panel (don't take the plastic clip from the wires.) Place some wood blocks to support the drum at the front of the drum. Use the nut driver to remove the two screws on the inside at the top of the front panel. Disconnect the two springs that hold the door closed. Lift the panel from the two loosened nuts at the bottom and pull it away from the drum and let the drum settle on the blocks of wood to support it. Place the new belt around the drum lining it up where the old belt left its mark around the drum with the grooved surface facing the drum. Replace the front upper panel with the door to engage to two tabs on the screws you left at the bottom. Lift the drum so that it engages with the opening in the front panel. In case where the drum had dropped too far, use the putty knife to engage the felt flange at the rear of the drum with the rear cabinet flange. Reinstall the two screws at the top that you had removed. Reconnect the two wires at the interlock switch and snap the clip with the wires to the flange of the upper front panel. Replace the door springs on the hinge extensions to the flange at the bottom of the cabinet. Set the Idler pulley assembly into the cabinet floor sliding the end tab into the slot and the two tabs fit into the holes in the floor. Pull a loop of the belt under the idler pulley and then pull it toward the motor pulley. You might use the shaft of your Phillips screw driver instead of you fingers to get it around the pulley on the motor shaft. Turn the drum by had for several complete turns to ensure that the belt lines up on the drum and that the drum isn't binding on the back or front seals. Close the top, snapping onto the top of the cabinet. Plug the dryer into the electric outlet and set the timer to Fluff Air range and push the start button with the door closed. The drum should be turning smoothly. Open the door and all should stop. Reconnect the Vent and move the dryer back to its former position. Turn gas supply on but do not start the dryer. Check for gas leaks. If you find a leak in either at connectors or the flexible connecter call a qualified contractor to replace the flex connecter. Otherwise you can then set for one of the dryer settings and push the start button and observe the burner through the lower panel to see that the igniter is lighting up and finally the gas turns on and a decent blue flam is burning in the combustion tube. Open the dryer door and the flame should cut off and the drum stop turning. You are ready to set the bottom panel. Set the panel on the two lower tabs and close it upward until the snaps lock it in position. Job Done

I followed the video directions exactly as instructed and I had no problem doing the repair myself. And if I can do it being a woman with no help you can do it. Easy peasy~

Removed back panel and tested all components. Everything was good so had to remove front to test last 2 components. Removed front and used brick (handy tool when your working solo) to hold drum up and in place (with full load of damp towels). Defective igniter. Testing all took 10 minutes, replacement took 2. Spent more time opening and putting machine back together than testing and replacement took.