3LER5436EQ1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

The dryer would not start when pushing the power button and the timer clicked rapidly. Another You Tube video lead us to the thermal fuse. First, we took the lower front panel off, it had two little groove places to pry open with a flat head screwdriver. Then we took off the venting piece. It was jammed full of lint which is why the thermal fuse blew. The thermal fuse itself was tricky to get at the nut in order to loosen it. We vacuumed out all the lint, cleaned the venting piece and lint filter. When the part came, again the nut was tricky, but just requires patience. Put everything back together and the dryer works great again! Really easy and I wonder how many dryers get replaced when this happens.

Fast shipping. Part arrived the next day!

I followed the instructions you supplied. All went well. The short movie that you supplied was fine but the only tricky part which included placing the belt over the idler wheel was not well done in that the repairman's arm covered the work area. Delivery time was excellent.

I woke up one morning to the dryer not working. Every company that I called wanted to charge a high price to come check the dryer. I decided to get on YouTube to troubleshoot the issue. There were a few videos that I saw, but the video for partselect was the best one I saw. I decided to explore the site to see if there was something I could do to fix it. I love the Instant appliance repair help, where you give the issue and it tells you what the problem most likely is. When I put in my model number, it said that it was most likely the thermal fuse or thermostat. I decided to get both since they were inexpensive. I received the part within a couple of days. I decided to come back to the site to make sure I was putting the part in correctly. If it wasn't for this site, I would have been paying hundreds of dollars instead of the $30 that I spent. Thanks so much PartSelect!!!!!!

This is a long, sad story, but I'll cut to the chase. I was told by few appliance repair guys that my problem was most likely due to the motor being bad. I had checked the thermal fuse, the door switch, and the power switch, and all were good so that made sense. I then saw a video which made it seem fairly straight forward to remove the old motor and replace it. So I ordered the motor from Part Select. Turns out it's impossible to remove the motor without also removing (and replacing) the blower. The video never mentions that. Also FYI, I found out that my dryer switch WAS broken, and nothing was wrong with the motor, so I spent $250 on a repair that should have cost %40. Oh well ...

It snapped right in. Works perfect.

I watched the You Tube video on this site. The only issue is there is a plastic fitting that I seriously damaged trying to remove the motor from the blower. You have to hold the plastic fiting stationary while turning the nut on the other end of the motor. If you try to rotate the plastic fitting you'll destroy it as I did. I got it loose by squeezing the plastic fitting with a large pair of channel lock pliers and then rotating the nut.

I was able to take apart the dryer myself and get old belt out, then my son helped me remove the drum and put new belt on. Well worth fixing; it works great again and the part with shipping and handling was only $17.00! better then price of new dryer!!!Thanks, Mary ( Cincinnati)

First: Which of two thermostats is it? The high-temp thermostat serves an emergency purpose: if all else fails. The cycling thermostat takes care of the clothes. So I selected the cycling thermostat. Second: Remove two screws and lift the front panel forward, up to 45 degrees and off. Third: this thermostat is in the center, near the bottom, in the blower casing. Remove the shield in front of the blower. The thermostat is right there, with easy access. Fourth: Leaving wires on old thermostat, two screws remove the thermostat. Screw on new one. Shift wires one at a time from old to new, to keep them untangled.

Initial diagnoses suspected a faulty igniter. After deterininig that there was not power to the igniter I unplugged the dryer and systematically tested the continuity of each of the temperature limit swithches which all checked OK. The last item in the circuit is the thermal fuse which proved to be faulty. To confirm that this was the only problem I monentarily by passed the fuse to verify that the burner came on. To do all this I had to remove the fron panel and take out the drum. Actually the thermal fuse is located behind th back cover and is very easy to replace and probably should have been my fist go to suspect. Note the likely cause of the thermal fuse failure is a plugged up lint filter or exhaust duct which should be checked before installing a new fuse.

Removed top, Face and pulled the tub out. Blew out all the dust and lint. Cleaned and lubed tensioner, installed new tub plastic bearing and reassembled.

looked at schematic diagram, compared to unit finally used a multimeter to check fuse.. replaced fuse, assembled dryer and turned on to check operation. OK.

So glad we tried the belt and rollers before going out and buying a new one. Very quiet now,so happy!

went on-line to research the problem. found the site and listed the issue. agreed with the probability and ordered the part. it came in a few days. After I ordered the part I watched the short instructional video that was available from the site. the repair took about 10 minutes to pull out the dryer, remove the back, take off the old part and put on the new part - put the back on plugged it in and push it back then turned it on. DONE

Checked motor and other components and found Thermal Fuse did not check out allowing voltage to motor. Replaced Thermal Fuse and Dryer worked