3LER5434DW1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

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Before placing your order remove the motor. At the rear of the motor is a plastic nut which is how the fan is attached. Mine was stuck and needed to be removed with a cutoff wheel from the back side of the dryer. This delayed the project several more days as I had already received the motor before figuring out the fan was stuck.

Watched the repair video on part-select. Pulled the top of the dryer up after removing the lint trap screws.removed screws at top, inside both sides and then lifted front off. Slipped belt over drum and ran through tensioner and around motor shaft. Put dryer back together in reverse order. Simple.

Removed the old fuse and replaced with the new fuse. Of course, I had to remove the back of the dryer but very easy and the cost was less than $20.00. Definitely worth it because we did not have the money for a new dryer. PartSelect.com is awesome!

Remove wire terminals, & four screws, install new parts. Very simple fix! This is the second time I've used Parts Select to fix my appliances. Very satisfied customer!

The only added thing to know is how to remove the lower kick plate. This is not on later models. Other wise all the directions are the same as for models with a full solid front panel. Immediately below the dryer door, at the right and left end, there is a plastic clip similar to the one holding the top panel to the vertical side panels. Insert a flat screw driver or putty knife releasing the plastic clip. This will allow the kick plate to fall forward on rings at the bottom of the plate. Release springs at either side of the dryer door (reattach later using pliers or a hook). Unscrew the nut screws at either side of the dryer door. Remove the door panel and the kick plate and put to one side. Reverse to reattach. I replaced the wheel tension part and the belt at the same time. I put the dryer on its back to install the wheel, belt and tension part. I used strips of scotch tape to hold the belt in place at the top and sides of the drum, while I looped the belt on the tension wheel and the driver wheel. I used the bungee cord to hold the top in place while I put the whole drier on it back. Good luck and have a vacuum handy to suck out years of dangerous lint....

When the part came in my husband was not home and I figured I could put this part on myself. I took the part downstairs, used the nut driver to remove one screw, took the two wires off the old therma fuse, put the wires on the new therma fuse, and screwed the new therma fuse onto the back of the dryer. It really couldn't have been any easier.

removed two screws from filter chute,raised top of dryer and removed front panel,lifted drum out,replace both rollers,replaced drum,reset belt tensioner replace front panel,lowered top,put screws back into filter chute.

Remove the back panel, then remove the housing around the blower, just slide the housing of to the side, you don't have to take it completly of the machine. Remove the top, and remove the front until you can get to the blower motor. Cut the blower wheel plastic down to the metal nut with a fine blade in a recipricating saw, used a bi-directional broken stud remover socket on the nut that was at the center of the blower wheel and large slip joint plyer on the other end of the shaft. Replace the wheel and put back together. It took about as much time to gather up the tools as it did to fix it.,

took of the back , took out the drying coil ,put the other in , but back on . now it works saved alot of money. love it. Thank you parts select.

First I removed the front kick panel to observe the drum and blower to see that both were running. I watched the element inside the heat can as well, and saw that it wasn't receiving a current (no heat, wasn't glowing). First thing I did was test the element itself by removing it from the heat can, and with a multimeter set to its lowest ohm setting, touched both terminal ends to check for continuity. The MM read 0 so it was fine. I then removed and tested the thermal fuse and the relay on the blower in the same fashion, removing them and checking them for continuity. They were fine also. I then moved on to the thermal limiter and relay on the heat can, and that's where I found a broken current. After installing both parts on the heat can, I observed the element receiving a current and the problem was fixed. I've done several loads since then and it is drying better than ever. Problem solved, for now.

This has happened several times to my KitchenAid dryer. It cost more than $100 to bring someone in to repair. Fortunately, I saved my bills and saw the part "thermal fuse" listed. I researched that and found your website. I couldn't believe how easy it was to fix. The part cost less than $15 and the diagrams you provided were a big help. I was about to purchase a new dryer, easily $500. Your site saved me a bunch of money. How I fixed? Unscrewed the back panel of the dryer. Found a part that resembled the part you sent me. Slipped it out. Put the new one in...that is it. I also figured that one reason the part keeps burning out is because my duct has to bend to get to the outside vent. The obstruction probably causes the dryer to overheat more often than not. I pulled the dryer 6 inches more away from the wall to see if that helps. My fuse was going out about every 2 years.

Was working fine one load and not the next. I remembered we had used this site for our dishwasher so gave it a try. Went with most common problem first. Ordered Sun rec'd Tues. Took longer to vacuum the back of dryer then it did to replace the fuse. Cost less than 30 bucks including shipping. Video was cool too.

i still cant get it to start i keep having that 06 code revision after i ran the diagnostic i replace the thermistor right after that the dryer start but only dry one load and wont start again then i replace the thermal fuse still not working i order the door switch hopefully that might do it

Previous consumer help advised to check the Thermal Fuse. A quick check using an ohm meter or simply connecting the leads together, confirmed that the Fuse was open and bad. The other essential item is to clean & vacuum all lint from all other dryer parts on the top, drum & back of the dryer. Be sure to also perform a check of the Cycling Thermostat, located near the Thermo Fuse. This is not a difficult repair. Just be sure to disconnect the 220 V and the circuit breaker. A $9 fuse was better than the cost of a repairman or new dryer. Barry Burke, Cincinnati, Ohio.