3LCGD9100WQ1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

First I changed the thermal fuse. Still did not heat up. Then changed the heater element. That fixed the problem.

The thermal cutoff kit was bad. I followed the instructions in the video on the website to repair the dryer. According to some extra research that I did, the heating element is protected by the thermal cut off kit so there is a greater chance that the thermal kit will need to be replaced before the element will. There is a chance that the element could go bad, but more than likely it ise thermal cutoff kit.

repair was easy,just took back cover off, changed out thermal fuse and but cover back on. Very cool that they even provide a video to show you how,,i'm sure i saved at least 100 dollars

Repair was fairly easy, lots of screws to remove but the instructions in the online repair manual were very clear. Lots of stuff to remove (top, front, drum, etc.) but not too challenging. Only tough thing was disconnecting one of the connectors on the electronics board, had to use a pair of pliers to squeeze the part to get them separated. Once I had it all apart it was very easy to replace the wheels and the belt. Putting it back together was easier than taking it apart.

Remove lower bottom cover (two screws on bottom) with screw driver. Remove old radiant flame sensor from left side of tube with ignior by using socket wretch. Remove wires with needle nose pliers. Put new part in: put wires back on, insert part's lower tab into the tube ( there is a small slot) use socket wrench to tighten screw at top. Put bottom front panel back on and screw back in.

I had to take the top loose and raise it up. There are two screws in exhaust vent you have to take out then you can raise the top. When you raise the top you will have to take the front loose and open it up enough to take the drum out. Go to the back and take the lower cover off and take the screws holding the exhaust vent out so the vent will come out the top. When you take the vent out you will see a fan on the end of the motor shaft. The fan is threaded on the shaft and it is left handed threads. As you face the fan you will have to turn the fan to the right to get if off. You will need someone to hold a back up on the motor shaft inside the dryer to keep it from turning. Take the motor out then get the new motor and wire it according to instructions. Install the motor on the motor mount, put fan on then put everything back in reverse order that you took it apart. The hardest part for me was putting the clips on the motor when I put it back together. Hope this helps you.

My Daughter and I have the same washer and dryer from Maytag. Her felt piece came apart on the lint filter. I let my fingers do the walking and checked which filter went with the dryer and purchased it. When it got here, I made sure it matched up with the old one and just put it in the dryer where it belonged.

This was by far so easy the instruction Partselect gave me where right on step by step. a repair man was going to charge 75$ just to come out 9$ from partselect. Thank you very much Mike chaplin

Unplugged dryer. Removed lint tray screws. Opened top of dryer and removed the two face screws then removed front of dryer. Released the belt tensioner. Then removed the drum. Disconnected the wiring clip and with a creseant wrench held the back of motor and turned the nut in the front clockwise to loosen the motor from the vent fan. Then simply pulled the old motor out and reversed the steps and now have a great working old dryer again.

Took it apart, then, put it back together again. Self explanatory model.

The dryer would not start when pushing the power button and the timer clicked rapidly. Another You Tube video lead us to the thermal fuse. First, we took the lower front panel off, it had two little groove places to pry open with a flat head screwdriver. Then we took off the venting piece. It was jammed full of lint which is why the thermal fuse blew. The thermal fuse itself was tricky to get at the nut in order to loosen it. We vacuumed out all the lint, cleaned the venting piece and lint filter. When the part came, again the nut was tricky, but just requires patience. Put everything back together and the dryer works great again! Really easy and I wonder how many dryers get replaced when this happens.

I woke up one morning to the dryer not working. Every company that I called wanted to charge a high price to come check the dryer. I decided to get on YouTube to troubleshoot the issue. There were a few videos that I saw, but the video for partselect was the best one I saw. I decided to explore the site to see if there was something I could do to fix it. I love the Instant appliance repair help, where you give the issue and it tells you what the problem most likely is. When I put in my model number, it said that it was most likely the thermal fuse or thermostat. I decided to get both since they were inexpensive. I received the part within a couple of days. I decided to come back to the site to make sure I was putting the part in correctly. If it wasn't for this site, I would have been paying hundreds of dollars instead of the $30 that I spent. Thanks so much PartSelect!!!!!!

This is a long, sad story, but I'll cut to the chase. I was told by few appliance repair guys that my problem was most likely due to the motor being bad. I had checked the thermal fuse, the door switch, and the power switch, and all were good so that made sense. I then saw a video which made it seem fairly straight forward to remove the old motor and replace it. So I ordered the motor from Part Select. Turns out it's impossible to remove the motor without also removing (and replacing) the blower. The video never mentions that. Also FYI, I found out that my dryer switch WAS broken, and nothing was wrong with the motor, so I spent $250 on a repair that should have cost %40. Oh well ...

It snapped right in. Works perfect.

Initial diagnoses suspected a faulty igniter. After deterininig that there was not power to the igniter I unplugged the dryer and systematically tested the continuity of each of the temperature limit swithches which all checked OK. The last item in the circuit is the thermal fuse which proved to be faulty. To confirm that this was the only problem I monentarily by passed the fuse to verify that the burner came on. To do all this I had to remove the fron panel and take out the drum. Actually the thermal fuse is located behind th back cover and is very easy to replace and probably should have been my fist go to suspect. Note the likely cause of the thermal fuse failure is a plugged up lint filter or exhaust duct which should be checked before installing a new fuse.