3ED25DQXAN00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Being a jet mechanic I had to familiarize myself with refrigerators, then after 2 or 4 hours of online studying, opened the door pulled the temp knobs of, removed the panel by gently prying the top of the panel out,then up and out with it. I found tapping on the thermostat shaft or wiring connection started the compressor, verifying my belief it was the thermostat. Don't mess with wiring if you don't know exactly what you are doing and unit is plugged in, you will electrocute yourself!!! I received the thermostat, UNPLUGGED THE UNIT from the house wall outlet, took one screw out of the upper inner wall at the very top to remove cover, one screw at the back top to remove the other cover (at the control vent) for access to remove sensor, then removed 4 screws , 2 front, 2 underneath to drop the housing for defrost timer, etc., and then took 2 screws from thermostat, unplugged wiring from thermostat (3 wires, be sure to put them back on the same place in the new thermostat). Remove old thermostat, slide plastic cover off sensor and slide back onto new thermostat sensor. Be careful not to kink the line or bend it to sharp you will damage it, (use gentle curves when bending it,) and re assemble everything in reverse order. This took about me 15 or 20 minutes start to finish. Plug into wall and watch thermometer to verify success.

First, turn of the water supply. Then remove the snap on grill from the bottom front of the refrigerator. Disconnect the black hose from the white hose and drain the hoses into a suitable recepticle. Then remove the 1/4" screw that holds the nozzle in place. Cut the hose off just behind the nozzle bracket and tape the end of the new hose to the now exposed end of the existing hose. From the bottom of the door you can now gently pull out the old hose while pulling in the new one. Re-attach the new hose to the existing white hose and replace the 1/4' screw to the new nozzle bracket. I reccoment using 1" wide tape and only going around the tubes once. Too much tape and you won't be able to feed it through the small hole at the bottom of the door. Have someone feed the hose from the top as you gently pull from the bottom.

Linkage on the cold-control mechanism in the air diffuser assembly was broken. It was necessary to access the diffuser assembly from both the refrigerator and freezer sides of the unit.
Re-connected the linkage between the diffuser and cold-control assembly; remounted the two combined assemblies . . . refrigerator working nicely now.

Be advised that to do this job, you have to take the ice tray and feeder assembly completely apart. The only tricky part is that the nut, part 31 in the drawing, that holds everything together is reverse threaded. Since it's plastic, you're afraid you'll break it. If you know it's reverse threaded to begin with you can go ahead and apply the required force to get it off.

First I installed a defrost timer, (the old timer had burnt out contacts in it) It seemed to work for a few days, then went back to not comng out of defrost cycle, I then installed a defrost thermostat. It seems to be working better than before. I found out that maybe I wasn't running it cold enough. So I turned it up colder. Now it works ok for 2 - 3 days, then I check the Temp in the freezer and its up to 6o. So I manually reset the timer and it works for 2 - 3 days. Don't know what to do now to fix it.

part arrived within 24 hours.
1. remove plastic front of freezer door water and ice dispenser by looking at bottom edge of plastic for two slots within which to place a stiff scraper blade. very difficult to pop loose and very fragile plastic so take care not to break it. it just pops off two spots on the bottom side and hangs from the top no screws or anything.
2. remove the two screws holding the water dispenser spout in place. oh yeah don't forget to turn the water off.
3. this is a long plastic water tube that runs from the dispenser thru a plastic tube channel set in the solid foam core of the door thru the bottom hinge and connects to the water inlet junction.
a. this replacement must be pulled from the dispenser area thru the door and out the bottom but it will not fit without cutting off the end of the spout. the hole in the hinge that it passes thru at the bottom of the door is to tight to allow anything other than the thickness of the tubing.
b. pull the spout end of the tubing upward after disconnecting at the bottom in front behind the air grill. if it moves freely you are in luck - if it does not move freely then it is taped in place on the back of the dispenser area and now that whole assembly has to be unscrewed from the front of the freezer door in order to remove the tape so that the tubing can be pulled thru.
4. once the tubing pulls easily as short distance in either direction it is time to attach the new tubing to the old tubing and pull it out the bottom of the door. i tried to use tape but it pulled off when i got to the door hinge on the bottom and it would not fit thru the hinge.
a. on my model even one layer of tape would not fit thru the hinge. so i put some bricks under the freezer door to hold it up and removed the bottom hinge off of the tubing that was disconnected only a short distance away.
5. use tape or place a screw with the head removed into both the old tubing and the new tubing so it can be pulled from the bottom moving the new tubing into place.
mine broke off in the middle of this process and i had to remove the freezer door. take it completely apart to expose the conduit the tubing slides thru, then run an electrical fish tape thru the conduit and drag the new tubing thru, not a fun process but doable - just takes a bunch of extra time.
6. once the tubing was out the bottom i could then simply thread it thru the hinge easily and reassemble everything.

I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!

I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.

Thanks,
Matt

Cut off old nozzle. Tried electricians tape to join the old and new tubing for fishing, but tube with tape on it, wouldn't fit through hole in hinge at bottom of door. Fished nylon twine through new tube then old tube from dispenser end and was able to feed old tube out and new tube in. Fast and easy. Took more time to clean all the dust and dirt I found down under, than to make the repair.

The hardest part was unloading all the food from the refridgerator door! Once done, pry shroud off top door hinge, remove 3 screws and hinge plate. Lift door off bottom hinge. Remove one screw from bottom of door, remove and discard old lifter cam and spacer. Clean up a bit. Install new spacer and lifter cam. Tighten new screw firmly. Replace the lifter cam and spacer on bottom hinge pin (affixed to refridgerator body) using the same method. Replacing the door is easiest if 2 people do it. One person to lift and steady the door, the other has to lie on the floor and guide the door onto the hinge pin. Replace top hinge plate and screws. Snap shroud back over top hinge plate. Replace food in refridgerator. Close door. Done!

We rolled the refrigerator out away from the wall and it was obvious where the break was located. We took out the old water spout for the ice maker and replaced the tube and the tubing from the solenoid. We turned it on and soon we had water dripping everywhere. We unloaded and defrosted the freezer which got all of the remaining ice that was stuck in there. We put everything back together. I read in some instructions in the manual that it might take 24 hours for the ice maker to reprogram itself and start producing ice. I was only about 12 hours and we had ice again and everything worked well. You really do not have to disconnect the water from the main line, the solinoid controls that part of operation and turns the water off until the ice trays are free and clear.

JLB

Very easy. Your online video was agreat help.

The hardest part of this job was removing the front cover over the water and ice dispensing unit.

Step 1: remove front cover by inserting flat head screwdriver into one of small slots on the bottom side of the cover. Push up firmly, but not too hard (don't beak the plastic cover). As you are pushing up, slightly pry the bottom edge away from refrigerator door. Then, do the same for the other side.
Step 2: Now with both edges slghtly pried away for door, you will now need to use your hands and apply an upward pressure on the cover. (Understand that there are three tabs on the top side of the cover that must come about 1/4" out of slots on the top side of the door.) Try wiggling the cover, while applying upward pressure. You may find the door handle restricting one of the tabs, but you can slide the cover to the side to get it out.
Step 3: with the cover removed, now you can use the nut driver to remove the one (1) screw that holds the mechanism in place. Be sure to see how it fits over the dispensing lever.

Step 4: Install the new delay mechanism by inserting the prong over the dispensing lever and seat into place. Insert screw and tighten.
Step 5: ensure that you installed the device properly by actuating the ice dispenser. If everything is OK, proceed to next step. If not, make sure you installed it correctly.
Step 6: Reinstall front cover by insering the three upper tabs into slots at the top of the dispensing area. Apply downward pressure with your hands, then push the bottom side of the cover in. You should hear them snap into place.
Step 7: Dispense ice into a glass, add water, and enjoy your finsihed project

First of all it's nice to have an exploded view of the ice/water dispenser.
First remove the trim around the ice'water dispenser by carfully prying the bottom out and popping the trim up to release the top.
Remove the 2 screws that hold the light switch and light, move out and to the right, do not disconnect.
Remove the 2 hex screws that hold the old arm in place. This will allow the arm to drop down so you can remove the arms' ice guide.
The arm has a spring for tension on the right side. Remove it and retain.
Above the water dispenser is a screw that holds the ice door closer spring, remove this screw and slide out the spring loaded closer
Loosen the right screw that holds the water dispenser, it is spring loaded.
You should now have room to remove the old ice dispenser arm.
Slide the new arm up into place behind the ice dispenser door
install the spring tensioner to the right side mount screw at the same time align it with the left side of the water dispenser arm. The ice dispenser arm and the water dispenser arm share this mount so both arms have to be in place in order for the arms to work properly.
Install the left mount and screw of the ice dispenser arm
Install the ice dispenser arm's ice guide using the screw removed earlier.
Next reinstall the Ice door tensioner spring and screw making sure the metal arm of the ice door is engaged in the slot of the tensioner.
Finally reinstall the screws to the light swithch and light bar and snap the trim back into place.

I loosened all the screws around the perimeter of the door and pulled the old gasket out. While doing this, the new gasket had been sitting in warm water so it would become more flexible. I then started at the top of the door sliding the new gasket under the retainer and worked my way down the sides and across the bottom. After this, I tightened the screws a little at a time until they were all tight.