36795 Refrigerator - Instructions

Ordered the correct replacement part (Icemaker Auger and Crusher Blade Assembly) as found here at PartSelect.com. Part was delivered within two days. Removed two screws to remove the old assembly; inserted new assembly, replaced the screws and problem fixed. Couldn't be easier.

Removed old auger unit by removing two screws - installed new auger unit by replacing the two screws. Easy schmeasy!

Based on comments I read at this web site, I first ordered the water valve; that did not fix the problem. Replacing the icemaker did fix the problem. It was easy to replace. Contrary to the instructional video, I couldn't simply tilt out the icemaker at the bottom after removing the lower screww; I had to loosed the two top screws as well. The leak was caused the coating on the icemaker being cracked and peeling.

I watched the video which gave me confidence that I could do the repair which I did in very little time. One thing to emphasize though: When you remove the vertical wire connector from the back of the freezer compartment, remember which color wire is on the top. I needed to watch the repair video a second time to be able to make that determination. Probably the repair video should have mentioned keeping track of that connector regarding the re-connection of it because it could also connect when turned 180 degrees.

I watched a youtube video and completed the repair in less than an hour from start to finish and save myself a service charge. It was fairly easy, the only problem was that it was a bottom freezer and getting to the ice maker was harder than if it was a side by side or top freezer.

I have an Amana freeze and I followed the procedure in the video. Which is very good! However on the Amana Model there two slight differences in the procedure that I felt I needed to do. The first one is, the condenser fan bracket is attached to the Freezer chassis with 4 screws, not three. The removal and installation of the back screw by the fan is a bear. I removed the other three and it allowed me to rotate the fan slightly to get more access to the fourth and did same on installation by just starting the 4th screw and then tightening it later. The second issue was my new fan hit the housing when I spun the fan. When I looked at the old one. It had a phenolic washer, between the fan and motor which spaces the fan out about a washer thickness from the motor. When I tried to remove the old one it broke in four pieces due to age. So, I made my own with a washer that I super glued to the motor housing after carefully centering it on and clearing the motor shaft . Seemed to work with out any more noise or balance issues...Thanks, your delivery was blindly fast and video was great!

I used the video on your website. It made me feel very satisfied that I was able to do it myself!

I unplugged the fridge. Then I removed the ice bucket. Then I removed the ice maker using a 3/4 socket to separate the connections and then used a small screwdriver to separate whatever connections were left. Then I installed the new ice maker and checked its level. Everything now works fine.

I removed 2 screws and lifted out the old part and replaced it with the new one, I am 79 years old and it only took about 25 minutes to have ice cubes again.

There were 23 parts to be removed in order to replace part. So I printed out a diagram of the parts off the computer and the labled each part on the diagram with its name. I laid them all out in order and patiently re-assembled the ice maker. When finished, I gave a cheer!

turned off freezer unplugged ice maker ,unscrewed 3 screws, removed ice maker,wiring harness and wire that goes up and down to control ice maker. installed all in reverse put back in and turned on waited and waited no ice ,theres a little control valve that let's the water in as well that was shot as well had to go get one at a local shop fairly interchangable just pull the other out and take with you,or just order one with your ice maker if you have the fridge out you might as well change it as it's just as old as the ice maker as well .everything pumping well,like never before, tons of ice all the time also put in filter on the water line as well really good tasteing ice now.

Removed and replaced part...

After unplugging the refrigerator, I removed the lower rear access panel that exposed the condenser and the overload/relay start capacitor with 1/4" nut driver (6 total). Next, I unplugged the wire harness and spring loaded keeper with needle nose pliers. Then I pulled the overload/relay start capacitor out of the 3 pronged male receptor located on the side of the condenser and plugged in the new one. Replaced the keeper, plugged the harness back in, and replaced the panel. Very easy fix.

The old light fixture and socket were easily removed. This was done with the power connected, but I already knew the switch didn't need to be handled. The solderless connectors are all insulated, so I just had to be careful. The new socket would not accept the connector for the "hot" (red) wire in the fridge, due to a design change. This is, of course, why you furnished a loose 3/16 inch crimpon connector. Rather than cutting the red wire (remember, the power is still connected), I obtained an insulated 3/16 connector of the opposite gender, and a short piece of red-insulated wire from an old fluorescent tube ballast, and made a jumper. The connector I provided (male) did not fit tightly in the original fridge connector, so I put a layer of resin-core solder on my male connector. You need tight connections. If the solder layer is too thick, it's easy to file down. Make sure to heat the solder sufficiently that the solidified solder is shiny and not dull gray. I used a 100-watt gun. 20 watts would probably work too. DO NOT USE ACID-CORE SOLDER OR FLUX ON ELECTRICAL WORK! I knew the switch was good, because I had checked for voltage at the socket terminals using my voltmeter, before I ordered the socket. It read 120 volts every time the door switch was open, and zero volts every time the door switch was pushed closed. A simple voltage tester would work here, too. Be very careful if you do this test or this repair with the power connected to the fridge; there is considerable potential to find yourself touching 120 volts with one hand while your other hand is touching a perfect "ground". There doesn't seem to be any choice if you want to test the switch. You do have a choice with the socket replacement - - the jumper described above. If you're not going to use the jumper approach, cut the power! If you are going to make a jumper and are not comfortable working on a "live" circuit, cut the power.

The fix was relatively easy but I could not get 2 of the screws removed. They were in very tight and I didn't have the right tools. Also, in the Amana refridgerator, they are in a "difficult to get at" location. I called my plumber friend and he helped me. Once the screws were out, the rest of the job went very smoothly as others have described. We took out the bad icemaker and reconnected the new one to the existing harness. I had ice in an about an hour. Thanks so much, PartSelect. The delivery was quick and the install was as many described on your website. You provide a wonderful service for the "do it yourselfer". Terri