36551 (P1108801W) Litton Refrigerator - Instructions

Loosened the 46 screws but did not take them all the way out because of advice from other customers; that really helped. A little problem getting the new gasket under the clamp that holds it on - just one side. It definitely helped to soak it in hot water for 20 minutes - that took most of the kinks from shipping out of it. The new gasket did not have a magnet so after the installation was finished, it didn't appear to close tightly. I'm a little concerned about that but time will tell. Overall the process went fairly stress free.

The DIY video was very handy and precise to every visual detail needed for anyone to do their very own repair. It doesn't get any better than that.

I was very pleased with the entire experience. The part was easy to locate on the web site, it arrived very quickly and you sent a how-to video.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

Pull out plastic cover #13of refrigerator part discription (temp. control and light socket), snap out old light socket and replaced with new light socket. light is now working.

Since I work out of town, I was able to track my part enroute to my house. They were right down to the time and where it was placed at my house. When my wife got home, she was able to install the part herself, she reset the timer and fired the fridge up and has been running ever since. The part costed around $29.00 including shipping. Your sight was very useful and would highly recommend your company. Thanks, Bob

Well I could what laid on the floor and replaced it but I didn't I emptied refrigerator laid it over change the motor then stood it back up actual work about three hours

I did remove the run capacitor of the starthing kit of compressor and another one new. It work fine.

It wasn't quite as easy to get to the bolts as the video showed. The lay out of the part wasn't exactly like the video either. However, I managed to put the new part in. Unfortunately, it didn't solve the problem. At first the fridge cycled on and off but after 12 hrs it started to freeze liquids again. Since the appliance was 17 years old we opted to just get a new one.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

Removed bottom air vent and removed/ replaced defrost timer by removing 4 bolts with nutdriver, disconnecting the plug connections and then reversing process. Very simple. Unfortunately, this did not solve the problem. Next step was replacing the thermostat. Again a simple procedure, but required removing freezer shelves and the rear panel. You have to exchange one lead from old thermostat to new, but very simple. Again, unfortunately, it did not solve my problem. Temp still down around 24 degrees F but needs to get to about 0 degrees. In both cases, I noticed no frosting up on the evaporator coils, just a little on the tubing that the thermostat attaches to. I'm thying to decide next step. Any help will be appreciated.

we had a power outage and soon after the coils in the freezer froze up I figured the defrost cycle was not working so I ordered a timer which only took a few minnutes to install, I also shut the unit down and thawed completly before turning on, frige runs like new

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.