36261 (P1108601W) Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The part could not be installed without home made angles which were attached to unit so that it would only protrude from back of refrigerator about 2" instead of 6".

The picture on the web did not look right , but the part was an exact fit.The note about the left handed nut in the other self help instructions was a life saver.Phone help was very helpful. Shipping was very quick.

I went on line and viewed the video. It looked so easy I ordered the new ice maker. Having the information I was able to take apart the old one and view the problem. By the time the new part arrived I was experienced with the installation. I was shocked when the new ice maker arrived within 1 day. I completed the installation without a hitch, I was delighted with the ease of installation and the operation of the new iace maker.Thanks again...Ray

I removed contents of freezer as this was a bottom unit. I had to remove freezer drawers/door to easily access ice maker which was located in the back of unit,wasnt a problem.I did however take a hair dryer to water tube as it froze up with about an 6 inch tube of ice that finally slid down. Connected unit and had ice within an hour or so and a full tray within 24 hrs. Second ice maker in little over a year...Video very helpful, saved 100 bucks by doing myself. Part arrived fast, great job!

We ordered a PartSelect PS2121513 ice maker. I was concerned that there was no instructions shipped with the unit. Fortunately, PartSelect had an online video that guided me through the process. It wasn't that complex really. The only time I felt totally dumb was when using my nut driver to remove the bottom bracket. I couldn't figure out why there was no 1/4" socket with my set, so I used a small socket wrench instead. I finally figured out that the driver was already a 1/4", without a socket in it. After that it was easy. Slid the ice maker up a little to free it from the top mounting screws. Pulled it outward a bit to gain access to the connector at the back of the freezer, then squeezed the two sides of the connector and out it came. I popped the plastic cover off the existing device and then removed the connector as instructed in the video. I also removed the bale (as per the video). I put the connector harness, plastic cover and bale on the new ice maker and put it back in, this time using the nut driver on the bottom bracket :-). My only concern after that was that it didn't seem to be working. I had no idea that it needed some time to get cold before it would work. After about an hour, it filled with water and began making ice. Success.

Turned off the water supply line. Unplugged electrical outlet. Removed the lower back panel cover. Disconnected the water suppy line. Removed two 1/4 inch screws from water inlet valve mounting bracket. Disconnected the two plastic water lines by unscrewing the plastic nuts. Disconnected two electrical connections. Removed old water inlet valve from mounting bracket. Replaced and connected all parts and connections in reverse order.

turned off the water supply,disconnected the power from icemaker to the back wall,loosened the two screws on the top,and one screw on the bottom.removed old icemaker.took the bale off,to put on the new icemaker.removed the wire harness from the old,to put on the new icemaker..saved over $200 for the repairman,had a full tray of ice in 6 hours.(watching the video,helped)!!!!!,very thankful for your service,as most of my appliances are all in that ten year period,i will be ordering more as needed.

Empty out freezer loosen two top screws and took out bottom screw. Lifted out ice maker and unplugged wire. Took bailing arm and plug and put on new ice maker and reverse the process. Had ice in three hours and no leaks.

Removed wiring from old ice maker and install on new. With 2 screws all ready in place hung ice maker on them. Attach wire connector into socket and install bottom screw to hold ice maker. Tighten top 2 screw and put wire guide in place. Drop wire guide down and ice started in 10 mins

Since I work out of town, I was able to track my part enroute to my house. They were right down to the time and where it was placed at my house. When my wife got home, she was able to install the part herself, she reset the timer and fired the fridge up and has been running ever since. The part costed around $29.00 including shipping. Your sight was very useful and would highly recommend your company. Thanks, Bob

Removed broken arm, repositioned spring and reinstalled with new arm. Very Easy. I was suspicious as the part did not look like the old one, but the part info said that it would work with my model, and, of course, it did.

Replace the original mulfunctioned defrost timer by the new Defrost Timer Kit. The old timer was located in a box at the bottum of the refrigerator. You need to disconnect the refrigerator's power first. Take off the front vent panel at the bottum of the refrigerator. Use the nutdriver to unscrew the 2 screws of front cover of the box, unscrew the 2 mounting screws mount. Then carefully push the timers turning handle into the box, and pull out the timer assembly, Disconnect the '3 1 2 4' connector, and push connect it to the new timer's '3 1 2 4' terminals. Push the connected new defrost timer into the box, reverse the process to mount it back using the original screws and nutdriver. Turn on power. The freezer and refrigerator can cool down and periodically defrost automatically. The new defrost timer works great, the freezer/refrigerator works like new one again.

My husband took the door off and replaced the door closure cam kit with no problem the door opens without a sound.

First of all, I do not consider myself very handy. Most of my simple home repair projects include at least 2 trips to the local hardware store and take twice as long as they probably should. So if I can do this anyone can. For once, rather than just blindly throw new parts at a problem I did check the water pressure to the icemaker first and then even tested the icemaker with a multi-tester to determine what was wrong. I had $5.00 mulit-tester in my workbench but had never actually used it before, so I found step by step instructions on another website on how to test the motor and it turned out that one of the circuits in the main motor was in fact bad. Since the motor was around $80.00 dollars and the Whole unit that's inside your freezer is about $120.00 I decided it was best to just go ahead and replace the entire unit rather than just the motor. From what I saw online normally replacing an Ice maker is fairly simple. Remove 3 screws swap the prewired plug along with the metal arm then just reinstall it. Somehow whenever I try a home repair it's never that simple. First of all, our freezer is on the bottom so removing the screws holding the ice maker meant that I had to climb over, around and under the freezer shelves in order to get to the ice maker itself. Also one of the screws is not visible from the front so I had to hold a mirror in one hand while I tried loosening the screw with the other. Since the metal arm that turns off the ice maker is not included in the replacement it had to be moved over. Of course it was stuck, so it did take a little time to get it loose because I was being careful not to bend it and have to order another one. Finally installing the new icemaker meant once again that i was climbing over under and around the basket in the bottom level freezer. There is probably an easy way to remove the entire drawer but I couldn't find the release tabs so when just pulling harder on the drawer didn't work, I thought it best to just work around it. Still all in all, not a difficult job, just a little time consuming. The guy in the video did the swap in about 6 minutes, it took me about 45.

I removed the back cover on the freezer cabinet and discover that the evaporator coil was cover with froze and ice. I then though that one of the three component of the automatic defrost system: timer, thermostat or heater coil has stopped working. I measure the resistance off the heater coil and obtained a 54 ohms reading so that was good. I did not did a very good job with troubleshooting the timer and thermostat since I conclude that the timer was bad. I ordered and changed the timer but turned out that the faulty component was the thermostat which I replaced and the refrigerator started to work like a charm :)! The harness was not exactly the same so, I has to cut and strip two wires and reconnect; beside that everything was fairly easy to do. Thank you!