36088 (P1108702W) Litton Refrigerator - Instructions

I watched the installation video posted on PartSelect website, which really helped to know what to do and to avoid unnecessary missteps. Although the door closes, but the new gasket doesn't have the force of suction when opening it, which led me feel suspicious whether the door is closed completely.

I simply watched the repair video and did it! Super easy, needed start device and capacitor. As easy as unplugging the old and adding the new. The video helped and gave me confidence. Wives can fix fridges too! Saved me $2500. Looks like I'll need a new excuse if I want a new fridge.

Loosened the 46 screws but did not take them all the way out because of advice from other customers; that really helped. A little problem getting the new gasket under the clamp that holds it on - just one side. It definitely helped to soak it in hot water for 20 minutes - that took most of the kinks from shipping out of it. The new gasket did not have a magnet so after the installation was finished, it didn't appear to close tightly. I'm a little concerned about that but time will tell. Overall the process went fairly stress free.

The DIY video was very handy and precise to every visual detail needed for anyone to do their very own repair. It doesn't get any better than that.

I was very pleased with the entire experience. The part was easy to locate on the web site, it arrived very quickly and you sent a how-to video.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

Since I work out of town, I was able to track my part enroute to my house. They were right down to the time and where it was placed at my house. When my wife got home, she was able to install the part herself, she reset the timer and fired the fridge up and has been running ever since. The part costed around $29.00 including shipping. Your sight was very useful and would highly recommend your company. Thanks, Bob

Replace the original mulfunctioned defrost timer by the new Defrost Timer Kit. The old timer was located in a box at the bottum of the refrigerator. You need to disconnect the refrigerator's power first. Take off the front vent panel at the bottum of the refrigerator. Use the nutdriver to unscrew the 2 screws of front cover of the box, unscrew the 2 mounting screws mount. Then carefully push the timers turning handle into the box, and pull out the timer assembly, Disconnect the '3 1 2 4' connector, and push connect it to the new timer's '3 1 2 4' terminals. Push the connected new defrost timer into the box, reverse the process to mount it back using the original screws and nutdriver. Turn on power. The freezer and refrigerator can cool down and periodically defrost automatically. The new defrost timer works great, the freezer/refrigerator works like new one again.

My husband took the door off and replaced the door closure cam kit with no problem the door opens without a sound.

I removed the back cover on the freezer cabinet and discover that the evaporator coil was cover with froze and ice. I then though that one of the three component of the automatic defrost system: timer, thermostat or heater coil has stopped working. I measure the resistance off the heater coil and obtained a 54 ohms reading so that was good. I did not did a very good job with troubleshooting the timer and thermostat since I conclude that the timer was bad. I ordered and changed the timer but turned out that the faulty component was the thermostat which I replaced and the refrigerator started to work like a charm :)! The harness was not exactly the same so, I has to cut and strip two wires and reconnect; beside that everything was fairly easy to do. Thank you!

After plugging in the new relay to no avail. I replaced the thermostat. That fixed the problem.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.