36071 (P1108705W) Litton Refrigerator - Instructions

I put in a new ice maker because it was not in very good condition. The water valve had a very slow leak which allowed water to freeze on the way to the ice maker and plugged the line. This problem was in one of your repair articles all of which were very welcome

I had to replace the whole unit. The tray should have lasted longer and there should have been a replacement tray available.The installation was easy. 3 screws removed, unplug unit, turn off water and put in new unit.

Replace the original mulfunctioned defrost timer by the new Defrost Timer Kit. The old timer was located in a box at the bottum of the refrigerator. You need to disconnect the refrigerator's power first. Take off the front vent panel at the bottum of the refrigerator. Use the nutdriver to unscrew the 2 screws of front cover of the box, unscrew the 2 mounting screws mount. Then carefully push the timers turning handle into the box, and pull out the timer assembly, Disconnect the '3 1 2 4' connector, and push connect it to the new timer's '3 1 2 4' terminals. Push the connected new defrost timer into the box, reverse the process to mount it back using the original screws and nutdriver. Turn on power. The freezer and refrigerator can cool down and periodically defrost automatically. The new defrost timer works great, the freezer/refrigerator works like new one again.

My husband took the door off and replaced the door closure cam kit with no problem the door opens without a sound.

First of all, I do not consider myself very handy. Most of my simple home repair projects include at least 2 trips to the local hardware store and take twice as long as they probably should. So if I can do this anyone can. For once, rather than just blindly throw new parts at a problem I did check the water pressure to the icemaker first and then even tested the icemaker with a multi-tester to determine what was wrong. I had $5.00 mulit-tester in my workbench but had never actually used it before, so I found step by step instructions on another website on how to test the motor and it turned out that one of the circuits in the main motor was in fact bad. Since the motor was around $80.00 dollars and the Whole unit that's inside your freezer is about $120.00 I decided it was best to just go ahead and replace the entire unit rather than just the motor. From what I saw online normally replacing an Ice maker is fairly simple. Remove 3 screws swap the prewired plug along with the metal arm then just reinstall it. Somehow whenever I try a home repair it's never that simple. First of all, our freezer is on the bottom so removing the screws holding the ice maker meant that I had to climb over, around and under the freezer shelves in order to get to the ice maker itself. Also one of the screws is not visible from the front so I had to hold a mirror in one hand while I tried loosening the screw with the other. Since the metal arm that turns off the ice maker is not included in the replacement it had to be moved over. Of course it was stuck, so it did take a little time to get it loose because I was being careful not to bend it and have to order another one. Finally installing the new icemaker meant once again that i was climbing over under and around the basket in the bottom level freezer. There is probably an easy way to remove the entire drawer but I couldn't find the release tabs so when just pulling harder on the drawer didn't work, I thought it best to just work around it. Still all in all, not a difficult job, just a little time consuming. The guy in the video did the swap in about 6 minutes, it took me about 45.

I removed the back cover on the freezer cabinet and discover that the evaporator coil was cover with froze and ice. I then though that one of the three component of the automatic defrost system: timer, thermostat or heater coil has stopped working. I measure the resistance off the heater coil and obtained a 54 ohms reading so that was good. I did not did a very good job with troubleshooting the timer and thermostat since I conclude that the timer was bad. I ordered and changed the timer but turned out that the faulty component was the thermostat which I replaced and the refrigerator started to work like a charm :)! The harness was not exactly the same so, I has to cut and strip two wires and reconnect; beside that everything was fairly easy to do. Thank you!

Installation was really easy since the replacement part was identical to the OEM part. Removed the three mounting screws with a nut driver. This allows one to remove the icemaker from the wall and disconnect the wire harness plug from the icemaker. I never unplugged the harness from the rear wall of the refrigerator. Put the new icemaker in place, making sure to place the water fill tube in the proper hole. Plugged the wire harness into the new icemaker and tightened the three mounting screws. The icemaker worked perfectly from then on with clean ice cubes and no leaks.

Took ice maker out all together we removed 4 to 5 screws had to remove axel to get the broken piece out and new one in my husband said it was easy in and out in about 15 minutes saved about 150. 00 Thanks partslect

After plugging in the new relay to no avail. I replaced the thermostat. That fixed the problem.

Replaced icemaker by using total kit. Watched youtube video put on by partselect folks. Very easy to follow.

I checked the part number and an exact replacement was ordered. The old unit was removed and what I failed to note was that the water supply hose for the new unit entered from the side. Further examination showed a small "break-out" piece at the rear of the unit. but I still had to do something about the hole in the side. I used a piece of metal tape to close off that hole, trimmed it to size, and installed the unit. It was really an easy install after I figured out what to do about the hole. Evidently, this unit is mounted on the side of the freezer compartment in some models. Reading the reports of others was a big help.

I followed the video and advice from the many others on this site and only have a few additional comments. First, the decorative cover on the front of the old unit is held on with two plastic teeth on the top and bottom of the cover. This was not at all apparent and it took me awhile to figure it out. I used a sharp knife to pry up the top edge until the teeth lost their grip on the metal notches in the old unit. Second, don't try to pull the cables out of the front of the old unit before removing that cover. It is held in with a plastic snap that must be depressed after the cover is removed. The video does a good job explaining how to remove the old metal arm and attach it to the new unit so that it will recognize the ice level in the bucket. Finally, don't bother looking around the web site for a button that enables you to add to these comments. You'll be contacted by email in a week or two for that.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

Unplugged the refrigerator.Removed the nut on the front bottom side from the support bracket with a nut driver.Pull down and out the old icemaker but not clear out to remove the electrical connector reaching to the back . Re-used the old front cover and the wire support clips and the wire connector assembly.Also put the shut off wire on the new icemaker.Re-installed in reverse sequence and waited for ice cubes to be made.Make sure the water line coming in the back goes to the ice tray.

I took the old part out and put the new one in and it works like it should. I loosened two screws and took one screw out with nutdriver. then I used the old wiring harness, bail and cover to finish.