36-3272-00-09 Tappan Range - Instructions

get liquid wrench, remove oven door(2 screws) remove oven bottom(2 screws) follow directions included with part. unplug or shut off electricity at breaker panel, Have a good light source.

Disconnected the oven from the wall outlet. Removed the bottom panel of the oven to reach the parts. Reached in the thight spot (not for a big guy)to unscrew the old igniter. Installed the new one. Plug the oven back. Turn the oven on bake at 350. Oveb lighted up in 5 seconds ! Working great since then!!!

Removing the drip pan and the bottom burner cover exposed the igniter, removing two screws retaining the bracket freed the old igniter. Removing the warming drawer allowed access to the control module to unplug the wiring on the ignitor. After making myself a diagram, I unplugged the wires and removed the malfunctioning igniter. Cutting the leads off the old igniter long enough to splice it on below the oven bottom with the enclosed wire nuts and attaching the new igniter (reusing the old insulation to protect the wire) took only minutes and reassembly was straightforward.

New igniter: $60
Repairman fee saved $150
Being able to tell my wife "See,
I told you I could fix it!" PRICELESS

This hard to find GE part number was easy to find at PartSelect.com. The GE dealer said the part was permanently out of stock. Lift lid and remove a few screws and pull off two wires and replace switch plate and reconnect everything. Good to go.

First removed oven racks then two screws to remove oven door, removed two screw of oven fan cover, ( need to remove fan cover to have clearance to removed bottom cover of oven) removed bottom cover of oven, then removed two screws holding oven igniter and cut wires of old igniter then spliced wire of new igniter to existing wire and reassemble in reverse order.

See other posts.... they have the correct repair procedures.

HIGHLY RECOMMEND removing the bottom drawer to access the space where splice will be made between new igniter wires and existing wires. This step is recommended in previous posts. I wasted a lot of time taking out unnecessary stuff in the oven compartment before I realized that the drawer compartment provided easy access for repair. Story of my life on just about all repairs.

Disconnected power cord to range
Removed the cover over the flame guard
Removed the Flame guard
Pulled out broiler drawer
Unscrewed the cover and disconnected the white plastic connector to the ignitor wires
Un crewed the two small screws to the ignitor and removed the old ignitor
Cut the two wires from the old ignitor
Connected the new ignitor to the wires on the white connector
Installed the new ignitor
Reassembled parts dsassembled
Plugged in power cord

Works

Remove bottom plates and deflector from oven, remove old igniter. Remove bottom drawer and panel to expose wiring. Cut wires, used supplied wire nuts to splice. The time consuming part of this job was having to clean all the parts before reassembly, and having to extract screws that were rusted into place due to heat and spillage. One of the igniter screws was stripped, and was very difficult to remove. The first part in your "probably cause" list was the right one! Thanks for the good service, and a useful website!

The repair was very simple and easy. All I hqad to do was remove the old knobs and attach the new ones. No tool was required.

Working on an old oven is difficult. Please expect the unexpected. The years of heating and cooling play havoc with oven parts. The screws holding the Flat Style Oven Ignitor become stripped. It took extra time to remove them. I had to go to the hardware store to buy replacement screws. Once I removed the old parts and had replacement screws the job was very easy.

Oven would not light upon setting for oven heat-up. Igniter would glow, but no gas flow. Gas Valve safety not sensing enough current draw from igniter to open gas valve. Original igniter measured 175 Ohms on Volt-Ohmmeter. New Igniter measured 74 Ohms before installation and use. Installed and spliced into existing wires using good quality wire nuts and tucked wiring into wire areas ensuring it was away from burner flue. Oven lit on first start-up! Problem fixed! Easiest to get to by removing broiler drawer, pressing catch tangs in from outside rails using a small screwdriver. 1 screw of 2 on igniter mount was stripped and difficult to remove, but working with pliers and nut driver was able to remove it with some difficulty. New Igniter hangs fine with 1 screw. .

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

Having already removed the old igniter , replaced it with new.

first I removed oven draw for access, then removed the two screws with a nut driver, next removed the two wire nuts and the old element was free. Replaced new element in reverse steps of removing old and the new part ignited the stove within 30 seconds, but now I have no excuse for not fixing dinner!! Thanks for promt shipping, it arrived early than anticipated.

Really easy to do, did not have to bring stove out from the wall! Turn power off to the stove. Remove the lower drawer. Remove the oven rakes. With a slotted screwdriver remove two screws in back of bottom oven cover, use 1/4 inch socket to remove two screws in front. Remove bottom oven cover. You can then see the part to be removed which has two wires going into it, the unit looks identical to the new part which heats up and lights the gas grill for the oven. I cut the two wires from the old part, remember which is the upper and lower; remove two screws holding onto part. Wire new part remembering top and bottom. Push extra wire down into bottom drawer and then mount new part with two screws. Turn power back on and try oven. Lite right away for me so I knew I had replaced the bad part. Reassemble and Enjoy!!