3510PRW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

My husband did it. I was not there to see it. He said it took less than one minute, just snapped in and worked beautifully.

I removed the two screws that held the element in. I pulled the old element out and heard a loud pop. I didn't realize that I had to turn the oven off at the breaker to change the element. It blew the breaker and melted one of the connectors to the element. The wires didnt pull through the hole so I had to pull the oven out, take the back panel off, replace the electrical connectors, slide the wires through the holes at the back of the oven, connect the element and put it back in, now it works fine. Remember to turn the oven off at the breaker when changing the element, it could be a shocking experience otherwise.

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

replaced drip pans with correct type

I marked all wires separately attaching a paper strip with tape to each connector and made a separate small chart where each wire should attach to the bottom of the switch. On this particular model there are three or four colored wires and two have both double and single connections to the same switch so the small chart told me where a single or double connector would attach even if I lost the attached taped information. Then since wires were marked separately, even if paper was lost I could still proceed with no outside help.
I had the luxury of leaving the breaker shut off while waiting for part to arrive. After arrival which was only a couple of days, I raised the stove top and let it rest on a small board maybe 1.5 feet so it would keep itself up.
The under assembly was already taken loose before so I just removed the broken switch taking all wires loose, which are already marked and replaced the switch with the new one. Gently placing each wire at its place after removing the tape for that connection. After all four wires were connected I held the switch up in place while screwing the two set screws into place. Then reattached the bottom assembly cover and then let the top down and reattached the four screws, one in each stove hole to attach the stove top to the under assembly. I then reattached one element and flipped the breaker switch on. No sound or problems so I tried the element and all is well. Reattached all elements and the project is done. PartSelect.com made this repair easy and economical. Replacement would have been 4x the part and shipping. Thanks.

You guys had a installation video which help greatly. I did run into a couple issues. Firstly, it didn't see a plug for the oven so I shut the power down from the panel. Lastly, disconnecting the old bake element from the electric insert at the ends was a bit challenging. The element and the inserts looks as if it was one piece but eventually it pulled apart. Installing the new piece was very easy. You want to consider adding additional legs under the bake element closet the area where the element connect to the oven inserts. When my old element broke and failed, the live piece can in contact with the floor of the oven causing a flash. It was a bit scary.

Thank you very much for your expeditious shipment and your follow up. Great job!

Unplugged the stove. I removed the old element by removing the two screws holding it in, and plugged the stove back in. I ordered the part and it came in 2 days. Unpluged the stove again, connected the new element, and re-attached it via the two screws. Plugged it back in, and it worked great. Fantastic price and quick delivery. Only took about 5 minutes to fix, and I saved at least $100 by not having to call a service man.

Removed the large lower back panel of range (6-8 phillips screws) which holds upper control back panel in place. Removed upper control back panel (2 screws), exposing infinite switch electrical connections. At front face of control panel, removed (pulled off) control knob, exposing 2 phillips screws holding switch in place. (NOTE: A sleeve is on the switch arm or maybe remains inside the control knob). Look for this sleeve. Without it, the knob will NOT seize the switch rotary arm.
Removed each wire connection individually, one at a time, installing it in the proper position on the new switch.
Reverse all procedures to put things back together. A very simple, straight-forward operation.

My elements just plug in so all I had to do was pull them out and replace the drip bowls. They fit perfectly!

Removed old seal parts and had to cut new part to put into space but it went in without difficulty and has sealed the stove door tight again.

First I took the new gasket out of the plastic bag to make sure it was the right size. Then I proceded to take the old gasket out by pulling it with a long noise pliers. Then I took the new gasket and went around the door putting the pins in the holes that, the old gasket was in. That,s about it.

Changing the socket with a new one simply required removing one screw and splicing the two existing wires to the pigtails on the new socket. It took longer to unpack the replacement part than actually doing the job.

Shut off power at breaker box , pull stove away from wall , remove Phillips screws from back of range pull knob off of switch . Look to see how switch is oriented remove 2 screws that hold switch in . Remove one set of wires at a time and place on new switch in same location . Put back together in reverse order .

Turn off breaker in electric panel fore stove. Put screw driver into slots in front of glass top surface. Pry top up carefully until top pops up.Remove burner dial, remove two philips head screws holding switch. Lift top carefully and prop up.With new switch close remove wires from old switch one at a time and place on new switch. Place new switch back in place, securing with philips screws. Remove prop and carefully press top down until it snappes into place.Replace dial, turn breaker back on and try burner.

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.