Models > 3468VVV > Instructions

3468VVV Magic Chef Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for 3468VVV parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 3468VVV
16-30 of 313
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Oven would not light

  • Customer: Richard from Austin TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
This oven was located in a rental house I own.

I first removed the metal plate that covers the burners at the bottom of the oven. No tools required for this step.

Next I turned the oven to 300 degrees, waited 30 seconds and noticed that the igniter was glowing brightly, but the burners did not light.

I next turned the oven controls off, pulled the plug, and set to work removing the 2 screws holding a plate to the back oven wall and the 2 screws holding the igniter to the burner. These last 2 screws had corrosion on them and I needed to use vise-grips to get a firm hold on them. During reassembly these screws no longer held firmly because the hole they threaded into was enlarged during disassembly.

With the screws loose I pulled the igniter and fished the wires connected to it through the opening until I saw the connector. I then pulled the stove out of its opening and saw that there was a easily removable metal cover over the wires, and I took it off.

The new igniter came with an incompatible plug, so I cut off the connector on the stove wiring and on the new igniter and used wire nuts to make the new connections. I kept the orientation of the old and new plugs the same way in case the wiring mattered, but that was just being safe. I don't know if the igniter cares which of its wires go to which wire on the stove.

I reinstalled the screws holding the igniter, and shoved short sections of the supplied wiring into the screw holes so that the screws would hold more tightly. I shoved the supplied insulation into the opening that the wires passed through, and reattached the cover at the back of the stove.

I shoved the stove back into its opening, turned the oven on and it lit within 15 seconds.

I was very happy with the result, and the product I ordered arrived on time, well packaged and I'm a very happy customer.

Oven would not heat- Beeped nonstop and flashed F3

  • Customer: Erin from Greenwich CT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed two screws that hold the oven sensor in place. I then removed the screws that held the panel on the back of the oven. I simply unclipped the plastic adaptor and replaced the old sensor with the new one. I screwed the sensor back in and put the back panel on. turned the power back on to the oven and hit the bake button. Voila!! The oven turned on and now it works like new!!!

Oven would not light -- gas smell

  • Customer: Mark from Rockwall TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Remove racks and pull out stove from wall. Remove back cover from stove. Unscrew and unplug sensor. Rethread new sensor wire through hole and plug in new sensor and rescrew plate that holds in place.

We had complications because of how the stove was installed, which delayed the "fix" time considerably.

Also installed ignitor. It was determined that both were bad. Gas would come on but not light. When oven would light, it would not re-light periodically to keep the temperature up, causing gas smell. This added time to repair of an additional 1 hour, and required removal of bottom drawer.

Overshooting temperatures upon changing settings

  • Customer: James from Palmdale CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Look in the oven. On the upper left corner is the sensor. Remove two screws. Gently pull the wire and connector through the hole and insulation. Disconnect old sensor, replace new. Gently push the connection through, then finish pulling through from behind the stove. Replace the screws inside the oven. Done.

PUSH PAD THAT CONTROLS THE OVEN,TEMP, CLOCK TIMER BLEW OUT.

  • Customer: Joanne from Bridgeport CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I DID THE REPAIR EXACTLY AS YOU DESCRIBED. TRANSFERRED EACH WIRE OVER INDIVIDUALLY TO NEW PANEL. NOW IT WORKS LIKE NEW.MY 86 YEAR OLD MOM IS SO HAPPY SHE CAN STILL BAKE HER CHRISTMAS COOKIES. THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH FOR YOUR HELP.I CAN'T BELIEVE I DID IT!!!!!! AND SAVED TIME AND MONEY. JOANNE IN BRIDGEPORT, CT.

oven comes on to temp but will not reheat to a new temp third time trouble with same range

  • Customer: william from newport VT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
first of all i have one advantage even though i am 70 yrs old i had a appliance shop for sears in the 60s and 70s and have not forgotten to much of the basics i am still in the security business and up on electronics. last time i had the company repair the oven , 70 dollars for the part 75 dollars for the svs call. (first igniter was on full warranty) well this time i decided to look for trhe part myself, i just went on line typed in oven repair parts and eventually all these sites came up. yours was the most professional looking and i took a chance. guess what everything you promised you delivered. price quality USA made parts and delivered in three days . opened package went to work less than fifteen minutes back in business.
will sure use you again if the need arises thank you

Oven door wouldn't close or open all the way

  • Customer: Michael from St. Cloud MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
1st removed the sealed burners
2nd removed stove top
3rd removed oven door
4th removed left and right side pannels to access door hinges
5th removed left and right hinges
6th installed new left and right hinges
then re-installed other components in reverse order.
The oven door now opens and closes properly, the heat stays in the oven!!

Oven stopped while the wife was cooking.

  • Customer: Marsha from Concord MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Range is 20+ year old 'condo issue' and difficult to pull from wall since previous owner had tiled it in. Going in from the back was going to be a pain.
Removed the oven door by opening slightly and pulling up. Removed grilles. Removed bottom of oven by sliding 2 latches in the back forward and pulling it up. Removed 2 screws holding igniter (long-style) to the rear of the burner. Cut power to the range and snipped the 2 igniter wires as close to the igniter as possible, leaving me only about 1 inch of wire to work with. Removed 2 screws holding old plate to rear of the back of the interior of the oven. Snipped off the connector on the new igniter. Carefully stripped about 3/8" of insulation off of all wires and used hemostat to hold wires together while applying the wire nuts. Used hemostat to work the wire nuts and excess wire back into the hole. Stuffed the hole with supplied insulation. Attached new back plate with original screws and attached igniter to burner with original screws. Reapplied power to range and did a test light. It worked, so I reassembled the rest. For me, the worst part was holding the wires together so the wire nuts would 'take', while working inside of the oven. But, an easy and successful job!

oven burner would not come on.

  • Customer: Theodore C. from Winsted CT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I am a retired lp Gas service person so this was quite
simple for me. Replaced the oven Igniter. What amazed me I placed my order and had the Igniter less than 24 hours. thank you so much for the quick service.

oven temperature not correct

  • Customer: Wayne from Hopedale IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled the oven away from wall to access rear of oven. Disconnect electric plug from duplex outlet, turn off gas supply ball valve. Removed two screws that retain sensor on inside of oven. Disconnected two prong sensor connector at rear of oven. Tied a length of string to sensor connector wires. Pulled old sensor out through front of oven. Use the string to tie onto new sensor connector wires and pull new sensor into place from rear of oven. Retain sensor with two screws. At back of oven, used connector jumper supplied with part package to make connection to existing connector.

Kept getting F3 errors

  • Customer: Daniel from Long Beach CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
My oven stopped working and the display read F3 error. I looked up the code and found that it was probably the thermostat sensor. I ordered the part from partselect.com and when it arrived I went to install it but I ran into a somewhat scary issue. I found that I had to pull my oven out of the wall in order to replace the sensor.

After a minor nervous breakdown, I decided to go for it and found that it was much easier than I had imagined. Changing the sensor involves taking out the two screws that hold the sensor in place (inside of the oven), pulling it out to the point you can reach the connector, plugging in the new sensor and screwing it back in place. However, if you have an oven like my model, you have to pull out the whole oven from the wall in order to reach the plug on the sensor. This sounds like a lot of trouble but for me it was very easy. The oven is held in place with screws around the front side. Most are easily accessed and you don't have to take out any critical/complicated pieces of the oven. My screw gun made short issue of the problem and I found that the oven was out of the wall within minutes. I could then easily unscrew a small back cover, change the sensor and then screw the oven back into the wall. Being very careful, the whole operation took about 20 minutes. I recommend that you get help from a friend just because the oven is bulky. It is not heavy, an average sized male can handle the weight but it’s easier with a friend. Also, be careful that the gas hose which feeds the oven is long enough (and not tangled) for you to move the oven out of its space. Obviously, be careful about gas leaks.

Burners would not light and the flame would come out from the bottom of the burner.

  • Customer: juan from aurora IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
A quarter turn counter-clockewise and the burner came out. Disconnect the old wires and connect the new wires. Place the burner in its place and a quarter turn clockwise and it was set.

Oven would not heat but Broiler would

  • Customer: Robert from Hudson OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Turn off the gas supply and unplug the power cord. Remove the screw on the back plate for the metal tab that covers the valve. Bend the tab up to expose the valve. Remove the gas line that feeds the broiler with an adjustable wrench. Remove the mounting screw for the valve. Loosen the valve inlet gas line fitting with an adjustable wrench. Lift the valve out. Reverse the steps to install the new valve.

Gas oven took longer and longer to light off even though glow igniter was glowing. When the time grew to 10 minutes and more I knew a repair was needed.

  • Customer: Joseph from West Hartford CT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I first removed the bottom of the oven and the flame guide to uncover the igniter assembly. Then I applied WD40 to the two Philip head screws and unscrewed them to release the old igniter. The two wire leads from the igniter went into the back of the oven and I could not reach the connection block. So I pulled the oven out far enough to get behind it and took off the panel covering the electrical wires in back. I had previously disconnected the electrical cord from the wall outlet. After I determined that I could not remove the connection block I returned to the igniter and cut the two existing wires close to the ceramic igniter assembly. I marked the top wire with a Sharpie pen so that I would not mix up the new leads when I install the new igniter. Although it was awkward to work inside the small oven space I was able to strip the insulation back about 1/2 inch and then connect the new igniter wires using the twist caps supplied with the kit. I pushed the wires back into the space and added the insulating material supplied. The igniter assembly was then installed with the original two screws and the other oven covers and flame guide reinstalled easily. After reconnecting the power outlet the oven was back in operation with ignition of gas flame within a minute or so. It was a good feeling and now we do not need to consider replacing the gas range.

Cracked gas feed tubes

  • Customer: Jeff from Union City CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
CAUTION: DO NOT LIFT RANGE TOP AS IT WILL CRIMP YOUR GAS FEED TUBES!!!

Remove grates and drip covers. Twist each burner counter clockwise and lift off. Remove ground wire and ignitor wire from each burner. Remove screws that holds the Orifice/Tube assy to the range top (one where each burner was) You might have to remove the orange rubber flanges if they didn't stay on the burners to see the screws.

Now lift (or remove) your range top to get access to the tube assy. Take a wrench and remove each gas tube nut (2 for each assy) and remove the old assy.

Drop each new Tube assy in and reverse the procedure.
All Instructions for the 3468VVV
16-30 of 313