30-3860-23-02 Tappan Range - Instructions

1) Turn off the gas and disconnect the power

2) Remove oven door. There requires that you remove the two square drive (SD) bolts on the inside, partially close the door and lift it off the hinges.

3) Remove the grills.

4) At the back remove the rear shield (aluminum panel held by 2 SD sheet metal screws.

5) this exposes the broiler igniter and its two wires. If its been replaced in past, there should be two porcelain screw-on wire connectors. Undo the connectors by turning them counter-clockwise. With a volt-ohmmeter, measure the resistance across the igniter. If its open circuited, its broken. If not, then its in the circuit board, and this help stop here. If this is the original igniter, it ends in a plastic connector. Disconnect by pulling it apart from its mating plug and again, check the continuity of the igniter. If its defective, reconnect the connector and cut each wire on the igniter side. Strip back about 1/2 inch of insulation on each lead.

6) inside the oven, using the SD driver, remove the 4 screw securing the broiler burner from the roof of the oven. The burner can now be removed, pulling the burner away from the gas jet on the right.

7) The igniter is now exposed and can be remove by removing the two SD drive screws.

8) Replace with the new igniter, being careful not to touch the black element, and feeding the wires though the rear oven wall.

9)Reverse the above dissembly procedure.

10) Broil the sausages.

It was great. We ordered the part, it was shipped the next day and I had it the day after that. It was easy to install and the stove has worked perfect since. Color us happy!

Make sure you unplug the oven before you begin. I removed the old igniter. The top wire on the igniter goes to the back of the oven and plugs into a flat blade type connector. Instead of using the twist wire nut I used a flat connector because it was easier to put on and is foolproof. Make sure you cut the plastic insulation off the connector so it does not melt when the oven is in use. I used a wire nut on the other wire and that was it. Very simple and the oven works great again.

Removed screws. Unplugged temp sensor. Put screws back in. So easy a caveman could do it.

New part arrived, opened pkg. , Pulled drawer out. . . Snapped in new parts. . . . Done!! Saved myself $100. 00.

removed shelves and base, removed 2 screws that held igniter on, disconnected wires from gas valve removed protective cover in corner {1 screw}
disconnected plug, removed igniter. This igniter was easier to remove from front of stove on this model

First, I unplugged the oven from the wall. I opened the bottom drawer of the oven to see where the igniter was mounted, which was directly under the bottom pan of the oven itself. I opened the main oven door and unscrewed the 2 screws that were holding the pan to the bottom of the oven. Then, I slid the pan back towards the the back of the oven and it popped right out.

There were 2 hex screws that were holding the old igniter on, so I unscrewed them with my socket set. I made sure to pay attention to which wire was the top one and which one was the bottom one coming out the back of the igniter. I pulled off the wire nuts connecting the igniter wires to the wires of the oven. I striped the wires on the new igniter and re-attached them to the proper wires of the oven, using the included replacement ceramic wire nuts. I re-screwed the hex nuts in, mounting the new igniter to its proper place. I put the pan back and screwed the 2 screws back in to hold it in place.

Plugged it back in, turned it on, fired up within 20 seconds. Good as new.

I looked up the error code on line and found it was likely a faulty oven temp sensor. I was able to find the part and diagram at partselect.com and placed an order. The probe was in stock and arrived within a couple days. The repair took only about 20 minutes and works fine now. Thanks for your help partselect.com!
Jim

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Ordered new racks and replaced them.

It snapped right into the drawer, was very easy

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

Removed oven door. (Open to first position then lift the door straight up). Located igniter in bottom of oven, followed connecting wires to connection block below oven behind the oven drawer. Disconnected the existing wires. Lifted the burner out of oven to disconnect defective igniter. Screws were fused to the burner. Used vice grips to remove screws requiring the screw holes to be retapped. Bought new screws to replace trashed screws. Installed new igniter to the burner rail then set burner rail back in place. Fished the leads from new igniter back down to connector block. Reinstalled leads. Reinstalled oven door. Tested functionality of oven. Everything worked. Reinstalled metal plates back in oven. Reinstalled cover over connection block behind bottom drawer. Reinstalled drawer. With the exception of fighting with two screws fused to the burner rail it is a very straightforward repair and shouldn’t take much more than 1/2 hour.

The front glides easily snap into a hole on the sides of the range. The rear glides easily snap onto the sides of the lower rear of the drawer.

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)