30-2138-23-05 Tappan Range - Instructions

using socket set removed old ignitor,replace with new one and secured using the socket set. The oven lite right up.Service was A1. I ordered on Friday evening and the part was delivered on Monday. Thank you.

Put a new ignighter in the oven I also would like to commend PartSelect for the fast service on the part i ordered it one day and recieved the part the nexted day i would recommend you any time

Model# GLGF366ASD range
Turned off breaker
Removed oven door (see gas range manual for procedure)
Removed storage drawer on bottom of range.
Removed oven racks.
Removed oven bottom panel (2 screws in back of panel)
Removed oven shield (screw on left and right front of panel & nut in middle of panel)
At this point igniter was exposed
Removed igniter by removing the 2 self tapping screws securing igniter.
Note: threads on both screws stripped during removal, requiring both
screws to be cut off for removal.The stripping of threads of these screws
is probably normal due to the heating and cooling of the oven during
operation, making the threads on the screws brittle.
Marked the top wire on the igniter with a black sharpie
Cut both wires as close to the old igniter as possible.
Cut wires on new igniter about 10" long.
Connected new igniter with wire nuts (provided) making sure to connect wire from top of igniter to wire marked with sharpie.
Installed new igniter using 2 new #8x1/2" self tapping screws.
Pulled excess wire & wire nut connections down into the back of the storage drawer area making sure wires were resting on flanged area of panel.
Reinstalled oven shield, panel, racks, storage drawer, and oven door.
Turned breaker back on.
Oven works great.
Note: self tapping screws should be provided

I unplugged the range. Opened the range by removing the burners. Removed exiting spark module then installed new one. Just make sure the four plugs are correct.

Removed the oven drip pan and removed the old igniter and cut wires and used the supplied wire nuts and replaced the old part turned the oven on and it ignited.

Did just want to comment on the customer service. It was great. The easiest to order that I have ever dealt with. Received prompt attention to the order and processing the same. JUST GREAT> Thanks

Disconnected electric power. Removed oven floor and flame spreader to access igniter. Spliced replacement igniter to original igniter connector plug wires. Mounted new igniter and reinstalled flame spreader and oven floor. Reconnected electric power and checked oven operation. Oven light off time was within 1 minute and oven temperature controlled to all settings up to 450 degres.

I was replacing a range oven hood, so I pulled the oven away from the wall but left it plugged in. I removed the old oven hood, which had an exhaust pipe that was still mounted through the cupboard. While I was preparing the new oven hood the exhaust pipe fell out of the cupboard and cut the oven wire in half. I was able to find the part number on the existing cord and looked up on line. I ordered the part using 3-5 business days and it showed up in 2 days. I was able to attach the new cord, which had an easy clip plug, and secure back to the stove. Very easy and very inexpensive to do.

Very Easy. Part arrived in less than 48 hours of ordering. Followed the directions included with part and referenced the information posted here.I have no mechanical talent and was able to install the part without difficulty.

I checked the igniter resistance with an ohm meter. It read about 350 ohms. Voltage across igniter leads with igniter removed was 120 volts when the oven temperature control was turned on, so I knew the gas control and thermostat were ok. The new igniter has a resistance of about 220 ohms, so the difference was apparently enough to keep the oven from turning on. This is the second igniter I've replaced in this 20 year old oven, the first bad igniter had open resistance, obviously since it was visibly cracked. The repair went very fast, directions were great.

Turned off power removed racks removed bottom panel removed flame distribution plate removed igniter i didn't use -the wire nuts 'the wires on the new part were more than long enough so i installed new stake ons reveresd disassembly process turned power back on and now it works great with a factory look

We recently purchased condo and WhiteWestinghouse range needed some love. the old racks were not in very good shape so we ordered new.

replaced the ignitor switch, umplug oven turn off gas. removed racks unscrewed two screws in back of oven (inside of oven), removed bottom piece of oven, one screw for broiler cover removed, then two screws for ignitor, cut wires peeled off some excess covering, twisted the new ignitor to wires covered with attached cap tightly replaced two screws in ignitior, replaced one screw in broiler cover, two screws for bottom cover, replaced racks, pluged in turned gas and turned on stove ignitor lit up and started oven broiler, now i can cook again.

turn the gas off unplugged it form electric removed the line took the flame plate off removed burner tube and the screw out with a nut driver that was all just put it back in reverse

1. First, I read other people's instructions on this site, and that helped quite a bit. My own model was attached somewhat differently, so I was unable to replace the igniter in the same fashion as others. 2. Turned off the power to the oven after having done the non-electrical work: removed cover plate from bottom of inside oven (two screws in the back) to expose the igniter, and the heat shield from underneath the oven once the oven drawer was removed. Old, old screws so that was a bit of rolling around on the floor. 3. After that it was fairly easy: turned off the breaker, snipped one igniter wire from a plastic harness assembly under the oven and the other from the electrical core underneath the oven which was attached with a clamp. 4. Removed two screws to release the igniter. Now I could work on it in the light. Stripped the old wire underneath the oven, attached the old clamp to the other new wire, and then clamped one wire on and joined the other to the plastic harness wire with the screw cap. It was a bit of effort merely to get at things, but not difficult. Breaker back on, and the oven now works perfectly.