2LSR5233BQ1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Disconnected the bracket screws that held the suspension springs in place - fed new springs into bracket and reattached. Local repairman told me that springs dont wear out, they break - wrong, they do lose their tension and thereby lose the ability to counterbalance the spinning load. Washing machine now spins like new - no wobble or shake.

The hot water worked fine on the washer. The cold water would sometimes work/fill the tub, but would only produce a trickle of water at other times.

There were 2 screws to remove at the top back of the washer (attaching the console) two nut screws at the bottom left and right and another bottom center. There were also two screws on front of the console attaching it to the top of the washer. All of those are easy to remove.

The water dispenser (this is the opaque plastic part that fills the tub) has two rigid/hard plastic tabs that hold it to the back of the washer. They were difficult to move/push into the slots to release. It is probably a better idea to push the water dispenser down a bit and jiggle it off the top of the tub then to try and slide those plastic attachments over and down out of the slots on the back of the washer. I spent the most time doing that than anything else.

Also do not forget to detach the rigid steel clips that hold the console on top of the washer, a standard screwdriver or pliers work fine.

Unscrewed (with socket wrench) the mounting plate for the water inlet valve and pulled off the electrical connectors. Had a bit of trouble holding the hose clamp and pulling out the nozzle, but got it. I used pliers for this, but think in retrospect a vice grip would have been easier.

Put the new part in (it came with an installation sheet, very easy to follow) and remounted/hooked everything back up again. Reattached the back of the washer, screwed everything back in and put the console back on the top and screwed that in. Remember to put the steel clips back in that you remove in the beginning, otherwise the console will be loose.

Attached the Hot water hose, then the cold, turned on the water connections from the house and plugged the washer back in.

After pushing it back into position, I turned it on using the cold setting. A big glob of gray sediment shot out and the cold water was gushing in a lot stronger than it ever did before. Hot water came in faster too.

It fixed the problem. Working great now.

Before ordering part, took the old valve out to make sure it looks similar to the one described online by Partselect. After ordering online, put things back together since I expected delivery would take 5-7 days. That night the water stopped dripping and has been OK ever since. I suspected that there was some rust in the electrical connections. By disconnecting and reconnecting the terminal, the electrical connection is better and water stopped dripping. Still keep the new part just in case (which came overnight after I ordered it).

Frist I disconnected the water lines and power cord. Then I leaned the washer back against the wall. Removed the 2 pump retainers and then the pump. Next removed the 2 screws from the motor retainers and pulled off the retainers and motor. Then removed the 3 bolts from the Gear case. Then removed the cap from the top of the agitator with a flat screw driver. Then removed the bolt from the top of the gear shaft. and removed the auger and agitator assembly. Then removed the gear case from the washer. Next removed the slip ring and then the clutch from the top of the gear case. Next removed the 1/4" screws from cover of gear case and removed the cover. Found the top gear bad. Ordered the new gear and pinion kit. Couldn't find any part #'s to match what PartSelect had. Ordered the gear that they should that fit most washers. The pics they had up looked the same as the one that was bad. Had the new gear in 3 days put it back together and it still wouldn't work right. Took it apart again and looked at it and found a small clip on the bottom side of the gear was upside down. Fliped it over put the gear back in and ran the washer with the gear case out and it worked. Put it back together again. And learned a good lesson always watch how you take things apart for when it's time to put it back together!

I'm not the one who actually did the repair, so I can't give you a blow-by-blow description. But my friend did the actual repair (I found and ordered the parts from your web site).

There was one almost insurmountable problem, however. The three-pin cog that connects the new gear case to the rest of the washing machine was changed.......the cross-section of each of the cogs was not round.....but teardrop shaped. I ordered the correct gear case, based upon the model number of the machine, but apparently somewhere down the years Whilrlpool must have changed the cog profile design.

So, the man who did the repair simply got out a metal mill file and filed down each of the cogs so that they were round. It wasn't perfect, but it worked.

1. Read many other repair stories for similar symptoms. PartSelect Forum was an excellent resource.

2. Posted my problem on PartSelect Forum and awaited reply. Read replies, and followed provided link to step-by-step guide for the procedure. PartSelect forum moderators were excellent advisors!

3. Performed the first half of the procedure to get to the diagnosed root cause. In some of the stories I had read, people had turned the washer on its back or tilted it up to get at the area from underneath. I am so glad I followed the conventional instructions, and left the washer standing and simply removed the cabinet. It was surprisingly easy. There's a reason why it was designed that way. I am also glad that I chose to remove the pump from the motor. While it is true that you don't *have* to remove the pump from the motor to get at the coupling...it hardly seems to make sense to remove the hoses instead. Removing the pump was incredibly easy, and by doing so, I never had to break any "wet" connections, and not one drop of water spilled over the course of the entire repair. (Even though I forgot to shut the water supply valves before I got started. Ooops! At least I remembered to unplug the power cord.)

4. But despite the open valves, the galoshes came into play not for their ability to repel water, but for their value as an electric insulator. I wrapped the galoshes around the handle of a long screwdriver when I discharged the motor's capacitor. :)

5. Ordered parts. Washed clothes in sink. Waited. Washed more clothes in sink. Waited some more. Washed more clothes in sink. Waited still more. Came very close to stopping payment to PartSelect because the very simple, commonly-requested part I ordered, which was supposedly in stock on the day I ordered it, didn't ship until the day it was supposed to arrive--even though I paid extra for expedited shipping. And I was never sent an e-mail to warn me that the parts were going to be delayed. And then to top it all off, rather than make up for some of the lost time caused by their own error, and ship it overnight, PartSelect chose to ship it 2nd day. All that good will generated by the excellent website completely evaporated by the failure to correctly complete the simple tasks that the business has needed to be good at since before computers were even invented. I will never use PartSelect again.

6. Prying the old coupler halves off of the motor and the washer took some effort, but was not overly difficult. I wound up removing the motor mounting plate in order to get better access to the half that was stuck on / needed to be attached to the drive train of the washing machine. Mounting plate was a breeze to remove and attach with a socket driver. I used one of those stubby flat-head screwdrivers to pry the old parts off. This was the one time where I thought it might have been easier to have the washing machine tilted up or on its back...but I muddled on through without even removing the bottom panel, and it wasn't too awkward. I used a large socket and a full-size hammer to not-so-gently tap the new parts into place. Putting all of the parts back together took a bit longer than it took to break them down, but it was easy. The instructions for putting the electronic control panel into test mode had been rolled up and taped to the cabinet inside the top panel. After I put the cabinet back on, I used those instructions to test all the cycles before fastening the top panel and testing the machine with an actual load. So far, so good...

First I disconnected power.

Next I turned off the hot and cold water supply hose bibs.

Once that's done, I pulled out the washing machine to get to the hose connections on the back of the machine, removed and drained the residual water in the hoses.

Note: Since the hoses were fairly new, I reused the supply hoses but replaced the rubber washers. However, if your hoses are older than a couple of years, it's cheap insurance to go ahead and replace since you're right there.

Next was to remove the two end caps of the control unit on top of the machine. This exposes the two screws that is then removed so that the control panel can rotate up and back.

Once the panel is open, I removed the single connector attached to the top of the machine. This leads to the lid open switch.

Followed by removing the two spring clips with the help of a flat blade screwdriver and pliers to keep the clips from flying off.

Once the clips are removed, the top/front shell of the washer is free to rotate foward. At this point, it can be removed or just laid to the side (forward).

This opens up the area to be serviced.

Disconnect the quick release wire connectors, taking note that the red connector is for the hot water control valve solenoid. disconnect the mix hose going to the tub from the valve by using pliers to disengage the hose clamp (catch the residual water with a sutable container). Then I removed the old valve assembly by removing the two screws holding the assembly to the back panel.

Follow the instructions enclosed with the part to preassemble and install the valve.

Reassemble by reversing the process. Check for leaks, test hot and cold water cycle and you're done.

It actually took me more time to gather my tools and pull out the washing machine than the actual replacement of the part!

Oh, by the way, I've purchased parts from PartSelect.com many times. Each and every time has been an outstanding experience. Quality parts, fast shipping and great prices! It's always been a pleasure!

Part Select provided the problem determination information and the video on how to install the replacement parts. I ran into one problem, I could not remove the lock nut to remove the inter and outer tub. I should have bought the special wrench for $14, no local DYI or hardware store had the wrench. So, after examination I used a large screwdriver and wood block to lift the tubs up just enough to remove the old pads and replace with the new. The old pads showed only a wear, but was enough to spin the tubs off balance. The new tabs made the washing machine work like new. New washer $500, repair man $150, parts and information from Part Select $20 bucks, priceless.

Removed the washing machine from the wall and found a broken spring on the floor. Began disassembling the unit before accessing your sight. (Later I viewed your video of the more simple dis assembly).Used your parts breakdown to identify the 6 parts I needed (3 springs and 3 retainers),and ordered them. They arrived on time and as per the video, installed them with ease and reassembled the unit. My wife is very happy. Thank you, Rusty

Farly easy repair, once I figured out the problem. The clutch assebly plastic part broke (over 15 yrs old), which is the part that engages the drum for the spin cycle. Following the very helpful diagram on Part Select, I removed the agitator cap and bolt from inside the agitator assembly, and pulled the assembly out of the drum. Then I put the washer on its side and removed the three bolts and two hose claps that hold the motor assembly. I pulled the motor assembly along with the drive shaft out to access the clutch/brake assembly area, removed the broken plastic drive piece and re-assembled.

Job was easy! Just remove the top cap with a screw driver. With a socket and extension, remove the bolt that holds the agitator to the transmission shaft. Pull up on the agitator and lift it off the shaft. I had to use the screw driver to pry off the center piece that held the cogs because it did not what to separate from the rest of the agitator. Removed the pieces of the old, broken cogs, cleaned up the parts and installed the new cogs with the center piece upside down. I then took some silicone lubricant and lubed the area the cogs rub on and the opening the center piece spins in on the rest of the agitator. I then removed the Thrust Spacer on the mail part of the agitator but just lifting off the old one and putting on the new one. Then, with the center piece that holds the cogs upside down I inserted it into the upper corkscrew section of the agitator so that the cogs would not fall out. While holding the two pieces together, I turned it back right-side-up and installed it back onto the other part of the agitator and then on the shaft. Re-installed the bolt and tightened with the socket. That's it! It sounds more complicated then it really was.

Lid switch broke off (plastic housing broke in half at the screws). This definitely gets easier after doing it just once. Took me a while to figure out I needed to pop off the plastic caps on the sides of the top control panel, to expose the two screws that others mention. Remove the two screws, lay the control panel forward exposing the two metal clips on top holding the cabinet in place. Unhook the clips, voila. The plastic connector of the replacement switch didn't exactly match the old one so I cut and splice (wire nuts and tape). Cleaned everything well while I had it all apart. If I ever have to do this again, it should take a fraction of the time.

I used "Emley's Cheap and Easy Repair" book to remove,install and reassemble the machine.
A lot of time was used to clean the filthy tub and basket.
While replacing the broken motor coupling I decided to replace some of the seals.
PartSelect got the ordered parts to me in a couple of days.
I wouldn't hesitate to do the job again.

First, I removed the softner cup from the top of the agitator. Second, I removed the plastic seal by pulling it out. I then used a socket to remove the bolt holding the agitator down. I then removed the agitiator from the machine and seperated the upper and lower agitator by placing my feet on the lower agitator and pulling up. The dog-ears were in the upper agitaotr section and easy to see and replace. I re-assembled in reverse order. The whole process took less than 30 minutes.

The tub was out of alignment and water fell behind it and onto the floor. My brother-in-law suggested my problem could be the tub balancing spring and when I moved my washing machine, there it was on the ground.
The schematic does not show where it hooks up. So after I did what I thought looked right, the machine still did not work properly. Then I replaced the three suspension springs and that didn't solve the problem.
I found a whirlpool "do-it-yourself" repair book at the library and was prepared to tear into the machine. However, I did not have the tub balancing spring in the correct spot at one end. It hooks up from one of the outer bracket to the back of the housing unit along between the legs. There is a hole that had rusted through. I simply drilled a new hole nearby and low and behold it works!
Easy fix - the frustration was with the poor schematic.