This refrigerator defrost thermostat is a genuine OEM part and is sourced directly from the manufacturer. Located on the back wall of the freezer section in the refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is...
The run capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature in your fridge and freezer. You may need to replace your run capacitor if your refrigerator or freezer s...
This is a 120 volt defrost timer manufactured for refrigerators. The defrost timer manages the automatic defrost systemin the unit. It acts like a clock by switching between activating the cooling cyc...
This door gasket, also known as a door seal, is sourced from the original equipment manufacturer for use in refrigerators and freezers. It is a flexible rubber strip that runs along the edge of the ap...
This evaporator fan blade is a genuine OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The evaporator fan blade circulates air through the refrigerator to control the amount of cold air goes ...
This gasket retainer clip kit is for freezers. There are 24 pieces in this kit. The clips are what secure the gasket and liner to the freezer lid. The clips are white in color and made of plastic. If ...
This part could be found underneath a fridge, dryer, or freezer. The original foot may be cracked, broken, or perhaps missing altogether. If you notice the appliance is uneven to the floor or wobbling...
This is white touch up paint for refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, dryers, and freezers. It is used to cover, or touch up, nicks and scratches on the appliance from wear and tear. It is an 18ml bottl...
This is a switch for your refrigerator, but you may also know it as a door switch or a plunger light switch. This part turns your appliance light on and off as the door is opened and closed. If your c...
Fan blade NOT included. This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then...
$126.41
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The old gasket was obviously gapping, partially from age and partially from damage during a move. To make the repair, I loosened the screws that are under the gasket and hold it in, but did not remove them. Once all were loose, I removed the old gasket, then starting at the top, ran a thin bead of food grade RTV under the portion of the
... Read more door that captures the gasket. I put the sealant on that edge only, then carefully worked one of the short edges of the gasket under the plastic and tightened all but the corner screws. I then ran the RTV down the inside of the hinge side of the door and repeated the process, this time tightening the top screw and the hinge side screw at the top, but leaving the bottom most screw loose. I repeated the process on the opening side of the door. The bottom was the hardest because the gasket seemed just a little long and it was hard to get the RTV up and behind the door portion, but after a couple tried I got a good bead of sealant then slid the gasket under the door capture and tightened all the remaining screws. After closing the door, it was obvious that there were places were it did not seal well. I used some cardboard strips, cut from the box the gasket came in, to place inside the freezer, between the hard plastic of the door and the inside of the gasket where it laps over the screws. This helped a lot, but there were still a couple small areas, so I used more cardboard, from the outside, between the main portion of the gasket and the rim of the gasket. This eliminated all the gaps. I let this sit overnight and this morning removed all the cardboard for a great sealing freezer.
After silencing the alarm, it seemed to be running as normal without any unusual noises, but food was starting to thaw from the top shelf on down and condensation was dripping from the roof. We were able to place most of the food in 2 large ice chests and then the rest in the freezer compartments of 2 fridges we have in the house. I the
... Read moren turned down the temp dial to the coldest setting and let it run for an hour or so; no change.
After researching on the internet, it sounded like our symptoms could be pointing to a defrost timer issue. I pulled the freezer away from the wall, located the timer and used a large screwdriver to slowly advance it. While doing this, at one point I could hear the compressor kick in. I pushed the quick freeze button and let it run for a while. When I checked it in a few hours, the alarm light had gone out and water that I had placed inside was frozen. We took a chance and put the food we placed in the ice chests back in the freezer. Everything was fine several hours later.
I ordered a new defrost timer, it arrived in a couple of days, and replaced the old one with it in a matter of minutes by disconnecting the wire harness from the old timer, removing the 2 screws holding it onto the bracket, screwing the new timer to the bracket, reconnecting the wires harness, and done. It's been a week or so and no problems.
The repair was as easy as removing three phillip head screws for each slide rail and removing and replacing the broken slide rail. However, over the years, the walls of the freezer had bowed making the drawer a bit short to ride on the new rails -- causing the drawer to fall off the slide rails since the span between each rail was now wi
... Read moreder than the basket. To remedy this problem. I used washers and placed them on the back side of each rail where the screws are located . This was the perfect solution compensating for the extra width resulting from the slightly bowed walls in the freezer. This solution allowed the basket to fit on each slide rail without falling off .
