2366 - Instructions

removed old motor from cooktop & motor housing & replaced w/ new motor & parts to install same. parts needed where screws & isolators (3).All went ok

I noticed that one of the burner blocks was completely burned and the others were corroded. I ordered blocks for all four burners. Installation was easy except for one block. The screw holding the bracket to the range top was completely corroded in place. I used a correct size easy-out, which is a left hand tap and drill, to remove the screw. That took about five minutes, including tracking the easy-out down in one of my many toolboxes. The entire replacement of four blocks took about one and a half hours. Stove top cooks like new on all burners! The part kit had all the right parts and they fit like a glove!

Turned off stove breaker. Unscrewed burner from stove top, took out burner and spill pan. Lifted top of stove, cut the wire as instructed and put all parts together as instructed. Placed everything back together as instructed. I did it myself!

Ordered wrong part at first caused me to blow out two elements. With the help of PartSelect I was able to get the right surface block terminal and replaced both of them, then found out I had a bad switch, they got the switch within 2 days I had my stove working good again. Thanks to PartSelect. Also watched the video which was very helpful ML

After turning off circuit breaker to the stove, I removed all surface units , removed the 4 screws holding the top and lifted up. The plug in was burned out (the wire was burned). Look at the old plug-in so as to be able to match the new one and insert the pre- crimped end of wires into the block and the block into the metal holder that matches your old one. (The kit comes with 2 different metal holders)After this, cut out the old wires and wire nut the new wires with the stove wires. Put shrink wrap protector on the wire nuts and heat to shrink it tight.attach the block to the stove top and wa la its done. Very easy.

I removed the burner element, then the drip pan. I took off the old block. Then I had to strip the old wires. Then I put on the heat sleeve, then attached the new wires to the old wires with nuts. Put heat sleeve over this and heated with lighter. Then put everything back together.

Isimply pulled the old burner unit and followed the instructions that came with the replacement.

Unscrewed screw holding bracket. Used side cutters to cut wires. Replaced the bracket, put the shrink wrap on wires, twisted wires together and held with wire caps. Shrunk the wrap with lighter. I'm a 67 year old female.. No problems.

I removed the entire burner assembly to avoid having to turn things off at the breaker - the whole assembly can be removed completely from the stove I had. Once it was out and disassembled, the toughest part was putting the new wires into the new block correctly. Once that was done, I had to select the right mounting bracket - there were 2 in the kit. Easy, just attention to detail. The rest of the instructions were easy to follow, re-doing the wires. The re-assembly was trivial, and it worked first time!

I used process of elimination to figure out the issue with my 28 year old Jenn-Air cooktop. Issue: One day while cooking there was a loud pop & from then the front burner no longer had any temp control & only heated to full blast plus. Steps to fix: 1) Replaced the surface burner elements PS2195246 - this didn't fix the issue but they look nicer now. This was a simple plug in - no tools needed. 2) Replaced the grill side with a 2 burner plug in part PS1941381. Also simple plug in with no tools required. This didn't fix the isssue & I found that the front burner on the new unit also had no temp control. 3) Replaced the Surface Burner Receptacles for the 2 original burners PS1570190. This required turning off the breaker, removing the cooktop by unscrewing all the little screws & then cutting the old connections with wire cutters and wiring the new parts in with wire nuts & electrical tape. It took maybe half an hour but did not fix the issue. 4) Replaced the Surface Unit Infinite Switch Kit PS2076107 for the front 2 burners. Removed the screws just for the center control panel (after turning off the breaker) then took a picture of the wire configuration & removed the old parts by pulling (hard) at the connections until they unplugged. Put the new part in with the same wire placement. This finally fixed the issue & we now have 4 working burners for the first time in the >1 year that we have lived in this house.

Old filter allowed too much air flow causing exhaust fan to go off....installed new filter in exhaust chamber...release clip on old filter and install new filter (at an angle) in the exhaust box....clamp down clip on edge of filter and job is complete

Turn off power to cooktop. Lift the broken infinite switch knob off the switch console. Use pliers to remove the hex nut that is under the knob. Then remove the grill over the exhaust vent to expose the two screws that hold the switch console in place. Using a philips head screwdriver, unscrew the two screws and lift the console up as far as the wiring will let you. Push the two little clips on either side of the electrical component you want to replace, to release it from its harness. Pay attention to the wires of the broken switch and pull one off at a time and attach to the new part. I used a knife to pry the wires off the electrical pins. Once all wires are reattached, clip the component into the harness and attach the hex nut back onto the protruding d-stem. Put all back together and test the switch before turning power back on. If ok, turn power on and test again.

After carefully inspecting existing burner receptacles, I unscrewed them, raised and propped stove top. Determined which bracket to use from new kit and proceeded to cut and strip wires, twist ends together with supplied ceramic caps and heated shrink wrap on that junction. Works great. BTW got parts in 2 days in great shape and good directions.

I removed the two screws holding the control panel in place with a Phillips screwdriver, pulled the assembly of switches up, and found the number on the old switches. Amazingly on PartsSelect's website I found a picture of the exact switch with the exact same part number stamped on it. I ordered three new switches, and they arrived two or three days later. I removed the wires from the old switch with a pair of needle-nose pliers, reconnected them to the new switch in the exact same places, and had all three of them installed and working perfectly in about 45 minutes or an hour.

Replaced the drip bowls, very simple. Excellent delivery time, ordered them Saturday, delivered Tues morning.