2360EGS Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

pulled old one out , cleaned the area & replaced with the new one.

Removed the old grease screen and cleaned the entire area thoroughly and replaced the screen

I had put up with a filter that got more and more raggedy every year, but I thought my 30 yr. old range/grill top was too old for me to find an replacement filter. What a great service you offer. I found you by web-surfing, typed in the model #, and presto--you sent me the shiny new filter. All I had to do was pop it in and throw away the nasty grill (after washing the scent off to keep the bears out of my Colorado garbage.) Thank you!

Cleaned out the downdraft cove, inserted the new filter, and put old filter in garbage can. Laughing. Thanks. Wish you had a FAQ's hotline. I'd like to know if the radiant inserts fit the older coil-type models.

Locate and open appropriate breaker to kill power to the range. (very important if you intend to see tomorrow).

Pull off the control knob.

Remove 2 screws that hold in control pannel.

Lift out the control pannel to the extent that the wires will let you. (2-3 inches)

Remove the nut that holds the switch/controller in the pannel.

Remove the wires one at a time and reconnect them to the new switch. Make sure to connect them the same way on the new switch.

Re-install the switch in the pannel.

Re-install the pannel in the stove.

Close breaker and test burner contol.

It's wonderful to get accessories for this 20 year old Jenn-Air. I love it and now it looks like new.

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

1. Turn off power to range at circuit breaker
2. Remove grate
3 Remove control knobs
4, Remove two screws holding control panel
5. With wrench, remove locking nuts from control switches
6. Lift panel, exposing switches
7. With new switch in hand, unattach old switch one terminal at a time, attaching new switch exactly as old switch, terminal by terminal.
8. Replace everything in reverse order
9.Turn on power

Turned off electricity at the circuit box. Removed four screws from panel cover that housed the switch. disconected the wires from the old switch and replaced the old switch with the new one reconected the wires put the panel cover back on. voila done.

FIRST OPENED THE CIRCUIT BREAKER. Snipped the three wires, capped the white one with the ceramic insulating nut and crimped the spade connectors to the other two. Then CAREFULLY filed one side of the rectangular hole in the escutcheon until iwas wide enough to accept the new swich. Drew the two wires up through the hole, attached them to the switch and pushed the switch into the hole until it snapped in place. Reseated the escutcheon and reconnected the two screws. Closed the circuit breaker, pressed the switch and VOILA, on went the fan. Be careful not to let filings fall into the electrical stuff. Need crimping tool & file.

I first had to purchase the replacement motor which was quoted from a high of $236 to a low at graingers of$100. 00. The counterman at graingers removed the blower fan from the motor for me with a special long handled allen key. I then degreased and cleaned the blower fan. I had to cut off the screws on the motor and replace the 3 motor isolators and the urethane foam around the motor. I had to thread the 3 wires from the new motor through the bx cable from the old motor and reattach the fan to the motor. Anyone wanting more detailed informatioin may contact me at:mablume@optonline. Net

First pulled the two screws holding the control with the switches. Then I unscrewed the nut holding the 6" burner switch and disconnected the wires on the switch and replaced the switch with the new one. Replaced the control unit in the range top and tested the repair.

Got a no-name tailor-it-yourself replacement switch from a San Jose, CA appliance parts store; but the switch was so cheaply made that it fell apart when I tested it.

Got a RobertShaw part from PartSelect and now the burner works perfectly.

The Model number could no longer be read clearly on the stove electric grill with a down draft vent system, so all I had was the size and looks of the old grease/air filter. I was very happy to come across Parts Select by way of an amazon.com search. Their web site's design and the parts pictures with detailed descriptions made it easy to find exactly what I needed. The grease filter fit perfectly in no time. I have successfully used my cooking grill again.

The lids are fastened to the underside of the unit by rivets....3 to each lid.
I used a cordless drill and small drill bit to drill through the rivets to remove the old lids and remains of the rivets.
The new lids are easily fastened back using a rivet gun ( about $20 in Lowes) using small 1/8th aluminum rivets.
No real problems.
1 thing to note is that the drill bit will pass through the old rivet by about 1/4 inch before it comes up against the upper level of the BBQ floor so do not drill any deeper.The aluminum rivets are easy to drill through and you will easily feel when the rivet is drilled through.