20239 Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

The repair was straight forward. Remove about a million screws and several layers. The only challenge was loosening some baked on screws in the innermost layer. Repair would have been less than an hour if not for those screws. Key advice is to pay attention to the order that each layer went back on. My oven/stove is about 25 years old, but works great. The part was backordered at a local appliance part store from May to ???. I ordered it at PartSelect and it was also backordered for a couple of months. I got it delivered to my home from PartSelect before it ever came in from the local store.

throw the old one in the garbage, drop in the new one. It is about 3/4" narrower than the one that came with the stove but still covers the down vent adequately

Used a multimeter to determine that power was going to the surface burner infinite switch. Then determined that power was not going from the output side of the switch to the burner element. Turned power to range off at the breaker box. Removed eight screws total on range top, four on the cartridge side, two located on back of control plate where the downdraft vent is located and two on the double fixed burner side. Raised the range top to gain access to the infinite switch assemblies. Removed to torx head screws retaining the infinite switch and then disconnected the five wires on the bottom one at a time, making sure to replace in the exact location on the new switch. Installed torx screws in the new switch and installed all screws back into range top. Reinstalled cartridge and burners and turned power back on. Tested rear burner and all functioned properly.

My 31 yr. old grandson very carefully took the whole door apart. Took out the broken window and put the new one back in. He was very careful to put every screw back in the original hole. It took him exactly one hour.

Lifted the old one out and put the new one in. Very easy

undid the 2 screws inside the oven holding the element in place. slowly pulled the element out to get to the wire on the end. unplugged the old element and pluged the new element in and slowly slid wires and element into back of oven. secured with the 2 screws and turned on to check operation.

The video you provided was excellent! Turned the circuit breaker off. Removed four screws, pulled out control panel, took a picture of the wiring to be safe. Disconnected the wires from the damaged control and removed it (two screws removed). Mounted the new control, connected the wiring, replaced the control panel and the four screws. Circuit breaker back on, turn burner on. That's it. Thanks for the video!

Removed old filter, dropped in new filter. A breeze! What was best of all, is that Parts Select shipped the filter immediately and it arrived within just a day or so! Well done!

Decided since the glass was broken I might as well replace the door seal. Getting the door off and on was the most difficult part of the process as the door hinge springs are quite strong. Remove screws on the hinge. Slide door off hinges. The hinges will close rather hard. Remove screws along the outside, then inside. Keep all the screws in some order as they are different sizes. More time to clean the door than actually installing the glass and seal. Re assemble. Trick to getting the door back on is to open the hinge spring to the broil position and place a thin screwdriver in an opening in each to keep in an open position. Slide door down to the srewdriver stop and then fully open. You can then slide the door fully onto the hinge, replace the hinge screws. Easy ,for a simple housewife.

The new replacement grease filter came without damage and it was a simple task of removing the old and setting the new in it's place. No tools were required.

I removed the cover plate for the burner switches and verified the wiring on the other switches. I had removed the bad switch a few years ago and I needed to make sure that the wiring was correct. I did not keep the original screws that hold the switch in place, because I destroyed them when I first removed the old switch. The were corroded from years of cleaning solution. I made new screws from longer wall socket screws by shortening them with a hacksaw. The entire process took about 30 minutes to do, and the results were good. The new switch is smoother than the others, but functions exactly the same.

James is an electrician so he istalled the part himself

took new element out of box, inserted it into stovetop, everything was over in about 2 minutes. It worked just fine.

Just followed the instructions on this site... :) Unscrewed the front, removed old unit taking care of which wires went where, put in new unit. Voila.

Your site helped me determine the problem. You included a video of how to do the repair. The replacement of the parts went just as expected. The parts came quickly and were the correct parts. I could not have asked for a better experience. (I replaced two switches because the knob was loose on the othe one).. Thanks.