1CWTW5505VQ1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

I watched the video to get a good idea of the procedure. I followed the instructions to remove the cabinet but kept the washer upright on its base. I left the water feed hoses attached to the wall spigots, but turned them off. The pump was rusted onto the motor shaft so I left it there. I unhooked the pump hoses from the pump so I could remove the pump and motor as a unit. The plastic coupling ends pulled off the motor and gearbox shafts easily. The new coupling ends have metal inserts which are a tight fit on the gearbox and motor shafts. To maintain the original alignment it's important to drive them fully into place. I greased the shafts then tapped the coupling ends on with a hammer and drift. The drift was a metal tube, inside diameter slightly larger than the shafts, but small enough to bear on the metal inserts, not on the plastic. My diagnosis was wrong - the original coupling was in good condition, but the clutch had failed.

Unplugged washer, took out screws that held on the dial panel, lifted dial panel, disconnected the ground wire, released the clip, lifted the lid which released the switch. Installed new switch closed the lid which holds it in place set the clip connected ground wire reattached dial panel secured it with the screws, plugged the washer back in and I was on my way the conquer that pile of laundry that had built up.

Easy, If your drive block has an open top, it's worn. Look at a picture of a new drive block and compare. If it doesn't match, then you need a new drive block. Note: Also check the drive clutch and clutch liners or pads...they may be worn. In my case it was the drive block this time. So to start, take off the fabric softenner dispenser in the center of the washer. Then pull out the seal. then remove the bolt. and pull off the agitator assembly. after that tap off the lock nut with a punch and hammer or if you have the special spanner wrench tool, use that. Once removed, pull out the inner tub and then pull the drive block off the shaft. Put the new drive block on and reverse the procedure from there. Tap the lock nut tight with the punch and hammer while re-installing. I'm so glad I did this repair. $15 is so much better than just giving in and buying a new washer!!!

First, I moved the washer with water in it from the wall. Then, I removed two screws with a phillip head screwdriver from the back cover to the controls. Then I used a little bitty wrench to remove two small bolts that also held the back cover of the controls to the rest of the washer. The control panel was all attached, so it had to lay forward on the washer to remove the broken lid switch and then to install the new lid switch. There was one screw that I removed with a phillip head screwdriver. I removed the broken part and placed the new part into the hole. Then I had to move the control panel with limited space to lift the lid of the washer; the part would not fit property without lifting the lid. Once it fit into place, I closed the lid and replaced the screws and bolts. It worked beautifully. Thank you for your online help and the remarks from other people who had previously fix this lid switch.

Remove two screws at the back of the control panel and slide forward to release the hooks, unplug the door switch then swing it over the top toward the back. Remove two fasteners at the top holding the case in place with a screwdriver. Slide case toward front of machine and remove to expose the pump. Remove two clips and two hoses from pump. Installation is the reverse of these steps.

Leaned the washer back to get at the bottom, removed the water holes, removed the water pump, removed the motor, replaced the direct drive motor coupling. Put it back together and it's all good. No clutch or drive problems. Simple fix.

I generally followed the video. Disconnected the water hoses, removed the front, laid the washer on its back. My water pump is rusted onto the motor shaft so I left it in place. I removed the water pipes from the pump then removed the pump/motor/gearbox as one unit. Watch out for more water than you think being released from the pipes and pump!! Everything works well with the new clutch fitted.

First let me say that I received the within 24 hours from when I ordered it online. Disconnected electric and water hoses .Removed screws on the top control panel then flipped it back from washer housing . Removed washer housing to expose main motor. Removed motor clips and screws . Removed motor coupling . Installed new coupling . Put it all back together . Works great!

I replaced lid switch. Take off two screws off the back of insterment panel. Unscrew switch and unplug. Then reverse. Easy!!

I found the impeller, in the water pump, had worn thru the front pump housing. Allowing water to leak on to floor. Replaced pump from under washer. Removed two hose's and two retaining brackets. Aligned pump and refastened hose's and retaining clamps. Works great. Thanks to Parts Select for the right part and the right price. Also Fast shipping. Dan H. Poplar Grove Il.

You have to determine if it is the COUPLING or the TRANSMISSION or the CLUTCH. I checked the coupling and that wasn't it. The machine did rotate back and forth in the wash cycle so I thought it would be either the clutch or the timer assembly. I ordered the clutch and used the video to guide me through the installation. One problem was the PUMP was stuck on the shaft so I removed the hosed and took out the rest as one unit. The clutch was full of crud and after replacing it and checking for leaks, the machine runs perfectly now! I would suggest you replace the hose washers when you reattach them to the machine as I rechecked after turning on the water and found a TINY drip that would have been a problem over time!

Started to replace the water pump but looked online at Youtube and everyone said to look at the lid switch first. I bypassed the switch and sure enough that was it! No need for the pump.

My brother-in-law did the repair. He unscrewed the back of the top part of the machine. He located the lid switch, which is on the right from the back of the machine (left if you look at it from the front). He then unscrewed the ground wire and unhooked the old lid switch. He put the new one in place, hooked it back up, screwed the ground wire. Reconnected everything and now it works.

Tilted the washer on the side with my wife holding it. Pulled the pump out then replaced it with the new one.

Lifted up the control panel, removed the broken lid switch and replaced it. Replaced missing Lid hinge mounting screws. It was great. Fixed the problem. Felt empowered to fix it ourselves for such a reasonable cost. Thanks