Models > 155910 > Instructions

155910 General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 155910
1 - 15 of 301
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Lower bake Element would not heat.
First I slid the stove out and unpluged it, then removed two screws,slid out element, disconected two wires, slid new element in to place, pluged two wires in ,put into place and installed two screws, pluged stove back in, and turned on to try. Works perfect.
Parts Used:
Bake Element - Push On Terminals - 240V
  • Ronald from Nassau, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
221 of 244 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Oven would go in to a F2 Error
Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Peter from stamford, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
142 of 204 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The Bake-o-lite (Hard Plastic) block that holds the burners female connection in place had chipped away over time and wouldn't allow the male part of the burner to connect up correctly.
After unplugging the range I took the rear sheet metal panel at the top off with a nut driver to expose the wiring connections. The next step was to remove the single screw holding the old part in place. (under the drip pan) Once free I snipped the old part from the wires and then taped the new female ends to the old wires with black electrical tape. From rear I carfully pulled the old wires through the back until I could reach the new wiring connections. Unplugged old, plugged in new and replaced the rear metal cover. Then I put the screw that holds the new block bracket in place, replaced drip pan, and burner. The final step was to plug the range back in and check to see if the burner worked. It did and I was done. Approx. 5 minutes
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
  • Robert from Mt. Vernon, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
112 of 114 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The switches failed on both front burners.
Remove nobs from both switches.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
Parts Used:
Range Surface Element Control Switch - 6 Inch - 1560 W Surface Burner Switch - 8 Inch - 2500W
  • Marc from Columbia, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
97 of 105 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Broken heating element
1)Turn off power to stove
2)remove 2 bolts holding heating element
3)pull element out of the back of the oven about 8" so that the wire connects is visable
4)pull wire clips off of heating element and remove element from the oven
5)put wire clips on the new heating element
6)push new heating element back into the holes in the back of the oven
7)screw botls back into the oven holding the heating element in place
8)Turn power back on
Parts Used:
Bake Element - Push On Terminals - 240V
  • Paul from anna, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
73 of 85 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
terminal block melted
The existing terminal block on my Ge oven/Range had melted due to a loose wire causing sparking and starting the plastic casing of the terminal block on fire and melting it, Part select made the part easy to find and had it at my house in 2 days. All I had to do was remove six screws to take the back sheet metal cover off of the oven. Unscrew the terminal connections remove two mounting screws that held the terminal on to the oven body. This was a little trickier than it should have been because the melted plastic had reformed making it very hard to access the mounting screws. i then mounted the new piece and plugged the oven in, it took 15 minutes and was very easy. definitely saved me at-least a $100 for the service call i would have made if finding the part wasn't so convenient
Parts Used:
Terminal Block Kit
  • jonathan from willow springs, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
53 of 67 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
burner was shorting out
unplugged unit pulled it away from wall took off the backplates traced wire to plug replaced with part ordered very smooth operation. the most impressive thing to me was i ordered part on computer and it was at my door in 30 hours awesome.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
  • douglas from louisville, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
47 of 49 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Burner was constantly at high heat
I removed the rear cover from the stove then removed the knob and two screws on the front panel that hold the control in place. I then took the wires off the old control one at a time and placed them on the new control. Then I placed the control in position and tightened the two screws on the front panel, replaced the knob and screwed the back panel in place.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Switch - 8 Inch - 2500W
  • Rick from Avon Park, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
45 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Oven wouldn't preheat above 300 degrees
Unplugged appliance and removed 5 screws on back of stove/oven and removed plate. Disconnected the sensor and unscrewed it on the inside of the oven. Pulled the cord through and replaced with new sensor. Replaced all parts and plugged in the appliance and tested. Worked great.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Gerald from Cape Canaveral, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
48 of 76 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
when cooking on the 8" burner it would randomly go high heat.
first slide out range from wall and unplug it. then remove the rear panel, it is about 6 or 8 1/4" screws. remove the selector knob on the front of range and then remove the two philips head screws. this is how you remove the burner controller. hold the new controller next to the od one and one by one take the wires off the old one and put them on the new one. re-assemble and you are good to go.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Switch - 8 Inch - 2500W
  • kevin from crossroads, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
29 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
I kept getting An F2 error and the temperature did not seem accurate
1) pull out the stove
2) remove the 7 sheet metal screws holding the back panel on. (the panel that also covers where the cord splits and connects to the oven.
3) Find the small plastic connector located in the middle of the back of the range and unplug it.
4) open the front of the oven and remove the one screw holding in the oven temp sensor.
5) replace the sensor and make sure to "feed" the new cord through as best you can.
6) I had to dig through the insulation a little bit to find the new wiring harness
7) connect the wiring harness and put the back of the range back on

note: this was very simple to do if you think this might be the problem don't hesitate to handle this one yourself.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Chad from Bloomington, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
27 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
busted glass
remove two screw lift top slide glass in place install top done deal
Parts Used:
Exterior Door Glass
  • Anthony from Sylvania, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
32 of 49 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Surface element indicator remained on.
The known problem: a short occured between the surface element and the INF switch. After replacing the wire between the surface element and INF switch. The surface indicator light remained on - indicating a power surge/spike. Prior to removing the old INF switch I disconnected the wires from the old switch one at a time and plugged each into the new switch terminals. Then I removed the knob from the front of the control panel and the 2 screws holding the old INF switch in place. Removed the old switch and replaced it with the new switch. Reinstalling the 2 screws and the knob. Surface indicator light was no longer illuminated and surface element works fine.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Switch - 8 Inch - 2500W
  • Ed from Plymouth, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
23 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Broiler burnt out.
Removed screws using nut driver. Pulled element way forward until wires came through. Pondered how to detach burned out element from wires. Chickened out, call neighbor who grasped things firmly with two hands and pulled. Old element came loose. Popped in new element. Cursed the screws that wouldn't align with holes to support element; finally did it. Screwed element plate in place. Put oven door back on, plugged it in and turned it on hoping that we hadn't reversed the wires. Job accomplished.
Parts Used:
Broil Element - 240V
  • ellen from centennial, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Oven Element had burned out
My husband did it, we unplugged the stove first then he removed the damaged element replaced it with the new plugged it back in and we were in buisness. I like that this was an acutual part for my stove(not some universal thing) and it arrived very quickly.
Parts Used:
Bake Element - Push On Terminals - 240V
  • Jeanette from Salem, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
All Instructions for the 155910
1 - 15 of 301