Models > 14888W0 > Instructions

14888W0 General Electric - Instructions

All installation instructions for 14888W0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 14888W0
16-30 of 271
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Oven burner wouldn't light

  • Customer: Jeffrey from Sarasota FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 13 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Never having tried to repair an oven before, I was a little nervous about attempting this myself. First I had to determine why the oven burners would not light, and by observing the way the broiler burner system worked, I could quickly tell that the problem was the igniter. After reading the repair stories here, I convinced myself that I too could fix this without calling a repair tech, and I ordered the part I needed.

A couple of days later the part arrived and I began the repair. First I emptied the oven of the racks and removed the door. (I learned how to do that here. I would never have guessed that all you need to do is lift it up.) Next I removed the bottom drawer and then the oven floor. That panel is held in place by two machine screws at the back and is inserted in a lip across the front. (All the screws to be removed in this whole job were 1/4-inch hex head.)

Now I had access to the igniter in the oven and to its wiring below. The igniter is attached to the oven burner with two screws. It is almost impossible to get to those screws with the burner mounted, so next I dismounted it. It is attached by a single screw at the front and by two screws underneath and attached to the back wall. With those screws removed, the whole assembly comes free and is only connected to the oven by the two wires from the igniter. Leave those attached.

I removed the two screws attaching the old igniter to the burner and replaced the igniter with the new one. The new igniter must be spliced into the wires from the old igniter. I cut one wire close to the body of the old igniter, stripped the end and used the supplied wire nut to attach the same wire from the new igniter to it. Then I did the same for the other wire. Doing it one at a time like that helps make sure the wiring doesn't get crossed since there is no visual difference between the two wires.

With the new igniter now in place, I reinstalled the burner assembly into the oven, attaching the two screws in the back and the one in front, and making sure all the excess wire from the igniter was out of the oven space itself to avoid problems from heat. Then I tested the system by turning on the oven. In a couple of seconds the igniter glowed like it should and the burner lit. Yay!

Then it was just put everything back together by putting the floor in (slide front under lip, attach screws in back), replacing the drawer and then the door and finally the racks. It actually takes longer to describe what I did than it did to do it. Elapsed time for a complete novice was about 15 minutes.

Oven igniter failed

  • Customer: Pete from Collegeville PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
0) Unplug oven and shut off gas at the valve behind oven.
1) removed oven door (no tools required)
2) Removed enamed steel oven bottom (2 thumbscrews, push back, pull out)
3) Removed base panel on outside of oven (some might have a warming or storage drawer)
4) From bottom, removed heat shield to allow access to underside of igniter -- 4 sheet metal screws, use 1/4" nutdriver
5) Now you should see all of the igniter, along with its wiring. One lead goes to a spade lug, the other uses a white nylon connector. Unplug igniter.
6) Using 1/4" nut driver, unscrew igniter from below. This is probably the toughest part of the job.
7) Once igniter is removed, put the bad igniter and the new igniter side by side. The leads on the replacement igniter are probably not going to be long enough (I ran into this), so clip the leads from the old igniter at the bas of the igniter and splice into the leads from the new igniter. After stripping the lead ends, I used a barrel splicer, but a wire nut or an inline splice with some heatshrink tubing or cloth electrical tape should also work fine.
8) Reverse steps above to install.

The igniter apparently controls the gas flow, so if the igniter doesn't get hot, the gas won't flow. In other words, be careful, but don't worry too much about having to worry about gas leaks, etc. In the end, it wasn't all that difficult, but I'm pretty good at home repair stuff. If you have a hard time plugging in a toaster, you should probably call a repairman.

Failed oven door hinge

  • Customer: Jack from Spencerport NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Pull oven door open about a couple of inches. Grab the door by the sides and pull up to remove from the hinges. Set it aside. Remove the storage drawer under the oven. This gives you access to the tension spring attached to the hinge. Detach it by hand. Using a phillips head, unscrew and remove the damaged hinge. Replace the new hinge. Reattach the spring. Replace the storage drawer. Replace the oven door. Done.

broiler igniter burnt out

  • Customer: ira from longmeadow MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
removed the gas burner which allowed easy access to undo the old igniter.
opened the wire hatch in the back of the oven cavity, and also took off the cover (two screws) on the back panel to allow access to the igniter connector.
I cut the wires to the old igniter, leaving lots of wire, stripped the wire, and then hooked up the new igniter using the supplied ceramic / hi-temp twist on connectors.
then just closed up everything in reverse.
helps to take off oven door, and you need access to the back side of the oven.

Broiler would work, oven would not

  • Customer: Joe from Buckley WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the pan drawer. Then I removed the metal cover under the stove. Not sure if you have to remove that or not. I think I could have left that on. I then looked inside the oven and removed the two screws in the back to remove the lower cover. Ahh, the hot surface ignitor and flame grill exposed. I then turned on the oven again to make sure the hot surface ignitor was not glowing. I went back underneath, and disconnected the hot surface ignitor. I followed the wires from it to where it was connected. I then unscrewed the 2 screws that held the flame grill in place. Next, I went back in the oven and removed the flame grill with the hot surface ignitor still attached. I then unscrewed the hot surface ignitor and replace it with the new one. Key points: make sure you mark which wire had which connector, or only cut one at a time. Also, they do not come with new clips, so don't cut you wire too short. I then fed the wires and the base of the flame grill back down the slot, rescrewed the flame grill to the oven, attached the wires, and turned on the oven to make sure it worked. I finally replaced the lower plate inside the oven, the lower plate under the oven, put the drawer back in and I was done.

F2 error message on my GE oven indicated need for new heat sensor

  • Customer: Joseph from Brick NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
After unscrewing the old heat sensor from inside the oven, I pulled the range away from the wall, got behind it and removed the small panel over the heat sensor. Naturally, the plastic clips connecting the heat sensor to the range wiring wouldn't come apart, so I eventually had to simply pry them apart with two pliers. Then, naturally, the new plastic connector clip on the replacement part didn't match the clip from the range, so I had to cut off both receptacles and strip the wires, then used the provided wire nuts to make the connections. After that, it was easy, just secured the heat sensor inside the oven and replaced the panel. I didn't push the range back against the wall until I tested the repair. It worked fine!

oven shut down code F3

  • Customer: Richard from Jupiter FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
As has been said shut down unit,Breaker fuse.If you do not have install info.Get a copy on line. If you have another set of hands it would not hurt.! this has been stated before. Remove door, Remove 4 screws , to slide unit out,I used a saw horse with some cribing secured to the horse to get height, Pull the oven out so that the two front supports are on the saw horse,and the back two are up to the edge runner.I used about a 1 ft stool for working height. Remove the top elec. cover sheet metal 2 screws. You will see were the wireing runs down the back. Get a small mirror,and flash light. Look down the wire opening in the back, you see the sensor connection ,I made a hook out of a coat hanger to grab it with. Pull it up before you disconnect it ,tie a piece of string to the sensor side of the connector , use 2 Ft. then disconnect remove two screws from inside the oven. And remove,sensor tie string on to new sensor connector pull through and connect.on top.Then replace everything cck every thing Twice!Doing this i didn"t have to pull the unit all the way out! LATER GOOD LUCK!

Oven not heating

  • Customer: Joseph from Stuart FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
It was very easy I removed two screws unpluged the sensor and wire spliced it together and also replaced the modual on the top of the stove and it was that easy.

Oven broiler would not ignight

  • Customer: Douglas from Saint Albans AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
First remove the broiler drawer. I laid on my side and reached into the oven to do the work, I first removed the one screw holding the splash plate (in the rear) and lifted the plate out. Then, removed the two screws mounting the ignighter to the burner base. Cut the wires on the old ignighter about half way between the connectors on the safety valve and the ignighter. I used a utility knife to strip 3/8" of the insulation on the wires still connected to the valve. Then, mount the new ignighter. Route the ignighter wires behind the gas tube. Use the enclosed ceramic wire nuts to connect the new ignighter wires to the wires still attached to the valve. Push the wire nuts into the hole behind the valve. Reinstall the splash guard and broiler tray.

Oven would not maintain set temperature

  • Customer: Leonel from Biddeford ME
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
No problem installing oven sensor, but I diagnose the problem wrong, I need to change(ERC-11)control p/n wb27k5140

The oven would not ignite.

  • Customer: Larry from San Rafael CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
After receiving the part ordered in one day, I removed the racks and the bottom flame spreader. The igniter assy. is held in by two screws, which only took a minute to remove. I removed the ceramic wire ties from, the old igniter and wire tied in the new one. Put everything back together and tested the oven. It works great again. Thanks for the quick response and delivery.

oven would not cook over 325 degrees and sometimes would burn your food.

  • Customer: phil from forney TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the unit from the wall,removed the back panel to access the wires to the sensor,cut the plug off of the new sensor and strip the wires back,used the wire nuts to attach the new sensor,put all back together and slid back into the wall and works excellent.

Oven would not light

  • Customer: LOUIS from PORT MONMOUTH NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Removed oven base plate by removing 2 screws and lifting out of oven. Pulled out bottom drawer and disconnected two wires from igniter. Removed 2 screws connecting burner to oven wall. Back to oven inside, and removed screw holding burner to oven bottom. Took burner out if oven. Removed 2 screws securing igniter to burner. Secured new igniter to burner. Reversed steps to put all parts back. Oven works fine.

Gas oven would not start

  • Customer: Steve from Springfield IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
This was a real easy repair. The key is to remove the door (by lifting straight up) and remove the bottom drawer. Then take all the trays out of the oven, using a screw driver remove the bottom pan that hides the burner and igniter. From underneath the oven (ie drawer space) use a screw driver to disconnect two screws that hold the burner assembly against the back wall of the oven. Then remove the one screw from inside the oven that holds the burner assembly (its close to the door area). Unplug the two igniter wires from underneath the oven and then lift out the entire burner assembly. Take off the two screws that hold the old igniter to the burner and replace with new igniter. Make sure you mark the wires when you remove them because you need the connectors on the end for the new wire. Then give yourself plenty of wire, cut the old wire off the old igniter and using the provided wire ties join them to the new igniter wires and reconnect everything. Sounds complicated but it took me about 20 minutes and its really an easy repair. Good luck.

oven door jammed,could not open it

  • Customer: Richard from Winchester MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old hinges and installed new hinges.
Hardest part was determining that worn hinges were the cause of problem, then ordering replacements. GE website hinge on exploded view did not look like hinges I removed.Thanks to Google I got on to PartSelect.com website where excellent pictures of hinges and one-inch grid confirmed they sold exactly what I wanted for my 13-year old range, the model number of which was not even on the GE website.
All Instructions for the 14888W0
16-30 of 271