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bottom heating element in oven disintegrated
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I threw away the old pieces.
Then I connected the two wires on the new element. I pushed the wires back in the insulation in the wall of the cabinet. Then I inserted the two screws and tightened them in.
SUPER EASY!!!!!
This $40 part saved me $1500 on a new double wall oven.
Removed 2 screws, pulled element out. My husband used an ohmmeter to see if the electricity needed to be turned off. It showed no voltage. He could not remove electrical connectors by hand, so he used insulated pliers. When he touched the connectors, a shower of sparks covered the inside of the oven and tripped the breaker switch. Then we noticed the pliers were welded to the side of the oven. Thankfully the pliers had insulated handles and he was not hurt. It might be a good idea to put in the instructions to TURN OFF POWER TO OVEN in the breaker panel because our oven was definitely HOT. Oven works perfectly now.
I removed two retainer screws which released the outside panel. Next I removed 2 screws which hold the middle glass pane from one of its retainer brackets. The was another panel with 4 screws to remove before reaching the final glass inner assembly. Once that panel was reoved with the broken glass it was time to put the repacement glass assembly back together.
Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams. Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.
I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back. Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch. removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine. Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.
The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
One day, I found my dryer continued running after I opened the door. And next day, it stopped working at all. I thought it was time to buy a new one, since my dryer had been used for more than 15 years. But I was curious to know what went wrong, and recalled my friend told me he repaired the door
My daughter found the video on youtube, which showed step by step repairing procedures. I just followed it and fixed my dryer in 15 min.
I ordered the switch, which is what most people told me the problem was. I didn't have a multimeter, so I couldn't test the current one.
I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.
The switch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.
After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.
Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)
I used tiny amount of WD40 on old screws,let sit for 2 minutes. Tapped the screws(2) of them with a small hammer to wake them up, I had a cordless drill and they backed right out. Pulled the old element out, used needle nose pliers to pull connectors off of the element(wiggle gently) put the new element on, reinserted back in the oven,attached with new screws that came with the element, started the oven. Worked Perfect!!!
I looked up the procedure to remove the switch in a repair book, removed the broken switch. Then I reconnected the wire leads, put the part in and closed everything up. The part arrived so quickly and there were even instructions with the part which made the repair go so easily.
turned off power, removed two screws mounting the old element, cut wires, and removed old element, crimped new stake connectors onto existing wiring, attached stake connectors to new element, installed element with two new screws provided, turned power back on. It would be easier to just slip the two stake connectors off and reinstall on the new element but I elected to install new connectors because the oven was over ten years old and one seemed loose.
I removed screws that hold cover and put cover aside. I removed the buttons and removed glass cover. I pulled panel out far enough t get tswitch wires and installed switch. Be very careful not to let wires touch metal.
Washer stopped working mid cycle restarts after resetting lid
Repair went well, but my switch only had one contact on the non common end. The new switch had two contacts. One is for operation with lid open and one for lid closed. Make sure to connect to the lid closed contact and the common on the other end and leave the lid open contact unused.
i needed a rack for my oven i looked everywhere for one that fit could not find one.my oven is not common due to the fact it is for a very small space and only 18 " wide i stumbled on this site by accident and decided to try it out shipping was very fast and people there are very nice any have alot of knoldge about parts it is very well set up to order with just a modle # i have told my whole familey about this site they did a great job and i will be back for more parts.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Clipped the wires back onto new element and used the two stainless screws provided in kit to resecure.
It should be noted that I first called a local Maytag Appliance Co. and inquired about this element. I was told that they would have to order it and it would cost me 68.00 plus tax. I told them I knew what these elements are worth and their price was a gouge. They didn't care. This is a repair that anyone knowing how to work a Phillips screwdriver can perform. Save some money and do-it-yourself.
