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1259
1259 - Overview
Models starting with 1259
Click on the best match to narrow your results.
- 12590 Troy-BiltLawn Tractor Accessories (Bumper)
- 12591-1 General ElectricRange
- 12592 Troy-BiltLawn Tractor Accessories (Bumper & Carburetor Guard)
- 12593 Troy-BiltLawn Tractor Accessories (Bumper)
- 12594 Troy-BiltEdger (Border/Edger)
- 12595 Troy-BiltAerator (Aerator)
- 12596 Troy-BiltLawn Tractor Accessories (Bumper)
- 12597 Troy-BiltLawn Tractor Accessories (Bumper)
- 12597RB ( 96061034100 2011-12 ) PoulanLawn Mower (Riding Mower)
- 12598 Troy-BiltLawn Tractor Accessories (Weight)
- 1259A16 WhirlpoolRange (Whirlpool Range/Stove/Oven Model 1259A16 Parts)
- 1259A26 WhirlpoolRange (Whirlpool Range/Stove/Oven Model 1259A26 Parts)
- 1259C16 WhirlpoolRange (Whirlpool Range/Stove/Oven Model 1259C16 Parts)
- 1259C26 WhirlpoolRange (Whirlpool Range/Stove/Oven Model 1259C26 Parts)
- 1259H16 WhirlpoolRange (Whirlpool Range/Stove/Oven Model 1259H16 Parts)
- 1259H26 WhirlpoolRange (Whirlpool Range/Stove/Oven Model 1259H26 Parts)
- 1259L16 WhirlpoolRange (Whirlpool Range/Stove/Oven Model 1259L16 Parts)
- 1259L26 WhirlpoolRange (Whirlpool Range/Stove/Oven Model 1259L26 Parts)
- 1259W16 WhirlpoolRange (Whirlpool Range/Stove/Oven Model 1259W16 Parts)
- 1259W26 WhirlpoolRange (Whirlpool Range/Stove/Oven Model 1259W26 Parts)
Exact Part matches for your search term
[Viewing 2 of 2]
DISCONTINUED
This part number matches the current model number 1259
PartSelect #: PS9343483
Manufacturer #: 1259
No Longer Available
Hose
This part number matches the current model number 1259
PartSelect #: PS9886127
Manufacturer #: 1259
No Longer Available
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Burner Bowl - 8 Inch
PartSelect #: PS244399
Manufacturer #: WB31T10015
This part is located beneath the element and catches any spills.
$17.92
In Stock
Burner Bowl - 6 Inch
PartSelect #: PS244398
Manufacturer #: WB31T10014
This burner bowl is also known as a burner drip bowl or burner drip pan, and is designed for use with your cooktop or range. It is black in color and is approximately 6 inches in diameter. It can be f...
$16.56
In Stock
Surface Burner Element Switch, Large Burner
PartSelect #: PS11740783
Manufacturer #: WP3149400
This surface burner element switch is for an 8-inch surface burner on an oven, stove, or range. The element switch controls the heat of the surface burner. Disconnect power to your range before comple...
$95.44
In Stock
Surface Element - 6 Inch - 240V
PartSelect #: PS243867
Manufacturer #: WB30M1
If you notice that your surface element will not heat properly, you may need to replace it. This surface element is 6 inches in diameter and 240V. It is a Y-frame surface burner element with five turn...
$57.41
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect #: PS217532
Manufacturer #: 40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
$11.02
In Stock
Oven Sensor
PartSelect #: PS236043
Manufacturer #: WB21X5301
It is possible that your oven is cold because of a fault in the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor regulates oven temperature in modern ranges, like a thermostat. It is on the back wall near t...
$151.71
In Stock
Round Carborundum Oven Igniter
PartSelect #: PS360921
Manufacturer #: 4342528
This round style gas oven igniter, or also known as a broil or bake igniter, has an amperage range between 2.5 and 3.0. It glows white hot to ignite the gas for the oven. The igniter does this by attr...
$51.37
In Stock
Light Cover
PartSelect #: PS247415
Manufacturer #: WB36X192
This light bulb lens covers the interior light bulb in an oven, range, or stove. No tools are necessary to replace this part. Simply slide off the wire bracket to remove the existing light bulb lens. ...
$13.53
In Stock
Bottom Trim - White
PartSelect #: PS2321159
Manufacturer #: WB07K10250
Screws not included.
$25.43
In Stock
Door Handle
PartSelect #: PS232127
Manufacturer #: WB15X10048
Handle only. Screws not included.
$78.31
In Stock
Lawn Mower Ground Drive Belt
PartSelect #: PS9172714
Manufacturer #: 954-04032B
3/8 x 36-1/8-inch
This ground drive belt (part number 954-04032B) is for lawn mowers.
Ground drive belt 954-04032B drives the transmission, which propels the lawn mower wheels.
Wear work glov...
$27.39
In Stock
Common Symptoms of models starting with 1259
[Viewing 7 of 7]Element will not heat
Fixed by
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Little to no heat when baking
Fixed by
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Will Not Start
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
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Oven is too hot
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
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Oven not heating evenly
Fixed by
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these parts
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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
Fixed by
these parts
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Will not program
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.
SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was ... Read more about 150 degrees to low.
FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.
REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!
Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.
As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.
Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.
If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.
You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was ... Read more about 150 degrees to low.
FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.
REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!
Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.
As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.
Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.
If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.
You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
Read less
Parts Used:
-
James from Austin, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
220 of 258 people
found this instruction helpful.
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The lower burner would not ignite.
First I removed the oven racks. Then I loosened the two screws in the back of the oven floor and figured out how to remove it. Then I loosened the two screws at the front of the diverter and, with some pushing and pulling and twisting, was able to get that to come out, too. Then I tried lighting the oven and noticed that the igniter wa
... Read more
s not glowing. When I saw that the upper (broiler) burner was working fine, I hoped that the problem was the lower igniter itself. I checked the wires and they seemed fine. I saw that two bolts held the igniter onto its bracket, so with a socket wrench (which size I got right on the first guess!) I removed those bolts and the igniter came loose. I found the connecter for the wires when I removed the drawer under the oven and was able to pull it apart easily. The igniter came out completely. There was nothing unusual about it, but I decided to take a chance and order a new one, hoping that replacing it would solve the problem. I put the rest of the oven together and waited. About three days later the part arrived (it was sent on a holiday; FedEx is soooo much better than USPS). I retraced the steps of taking the oven apart, put the two bolts into the new igniter to attach it to the bracket, and went back underneath behind the drawer to connect the wires. Then came the moment of truth: I tried turing on the oven. I held the button down to keep the light off, and after a few seconds I saw it: IT GLOWED!! It worked!! After yelling a satisfying "YEAH!!," I turned it off, put back the drawer, the diverter (more pulling and pushing and twisting), and the oven floor. Now it's all working perfectly and it took a very short time to fix. And a little luck that the problem was with such a simple part.
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Parts Used:
-
Mark from Rego Park, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
80 of 86 people
found this instruction helpful.
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the element did not turn compleatly off, the on light stayed on.
removed the screws holding the back metal panel, this exposed the wires to the switch. tested the wires to find that they were live when the switch was in the off position. ordered a new switch. UNPLUGED THE STOVE. removed the knob on the front of the stove. this exposed 2 screws, removed screws and the switch came away from the stove. re
... Read more
moved each wire from the old switch and replaced them in the same position on the new switch. inserted new switch into the stove and attached the 2 screws. replaced back panel and pluged in stove. all tested well
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Parts Used:
-
chaz from fairplay, CO
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
83 of 100 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thank you for voting!