Models > 11JS-10K > Instructions

11JS-10K Magic Chef Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for 11JS-10K parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 11JS-10K
46-60 of 172
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Bottom oven burner wouldn't light.

  • Customer: James from Lino Lakes MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
If your igniter glows but the burner doesn't light, your igniter is more than likely bad. It should have at least 3.2V to gas valve when the igniter is glowing in order to open the gas valve. The repair is very easy with only a 5/16" nut driver equired to remove and replace the igniter. It's pretty much a plug and play reair.

oven would not turn on

  • Customer: Robert from Clymer NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I first removed oven racks.then I removed bottom of oven by sliding locks,then lifting out bottom.Next I removed screw holding e. control cove,then removed cover.Igniter plug was exposed,I then unpluged egniter. I next removed 2 screws holding burner and igniter .I removed igniter and burner as a unit. removed 1 screw from igniter,and replaced igniter on burner.Then assembled every thing in reverse order,and tested Oven worked perfectly.

Oven wouldn't heat. Igniter was broken.

  • Customer: Thomas from Allison Park PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the back of the range to disconnect the wires to the igniter. Then I removed the two screws holding the igniter, screwed the new one in and reconnected the wires in back.
I was really pleased how easy it was to find the part on the website and how quickly the part came. The whole job was a snap. Thanks!

Oven wouldn't light. Smell of gas before lighting

  • Customer: Charles from Alexandria VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
First I went online to find out about the availability of the part. In my search, I found what others had experienced and how they repaired it.
Second, I ordered the part and followed others stories on their repair efforts.
Third, I unplugged the range and removed the racks.
Fourth, I removed the bottom of the oven which lifts out back first.
Fifth, I removed the wing nut securing the flame difusser making it easier to access the element.
Sixth, I had read that others had problems saving the original screws and/or threaded holes. I sprayed some WD-40 on both screws. They came out and back in without a hitch.
Seventh, I removed and replaced the element, snap out, snap in.
Eighth, I turned on the oven. It took about 15 seconds to glow but WOW, it lit 5 seconds after that. I am my wife's hero!

Oven wouldn't light

  • Customer: michael from newhall CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Same as the other entries in this section.
The only thing I would add is a hint for removing the broiler igniter. As you can see from the oven igniter, the wires connect with a plug. For the top igniter, the broiler, the plug goes through the insulation and then through a hole in the rear panel of the oven. So, when you pull on it, you will think it is stuck or the wire is pulled taut. That is because the plug hangs up on the rear panel.
Stick your finger through the square hole that you can see inside the oven, and follow the wire through the insulation. You will feel the small round hole in the back. You have to wiggle the wire up and around a bit to get the plug to fit through the hole. Then you will have the slack you need to change the plugs.
That way, you don't have to pull the whole oven out and break all the caulking seals.

Oven would'nt heat

  • Customer: Ariel from Oxford NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that held the old element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
I replaced the element with the new one and tucked the connector in the insulation. Additional insulation came with the kit. I replaced the two screws that held the element in placed. Oven worked perfectly

igniter glowed, but oven would not light or stay lit

  • Customer: Daniel from Grafton WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
The igniter was located in the bottom of the stove or broiler section. It was hard to get at, but with a little trial and error I figured out how to take the plate between the oven and broiler. Now the igniter was easily accessable. 2 screws on the igniter bracket, then simply unplug the electrical. The igniter supplied had the identical electrical plug (plug and play). The new igniter works like a charm-oven ignites in about 15 seconds. Piece of cake!!!!!

Oven making whooshing sound and not heating up

  • Customer: Jason from Williamsburg VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled oven out from wall. Unplugged. Pulled out bottom drawer. Removed oven door by pulling up on angle. Removed bottom of oven. Removed old ignitor by taking out screws. Disconnected red and white wiring plastic coupler. Fed new wiring and connected. Mounted ignitor. Plugged back in. Very easy and worked!

Replacement of igniter

  • Customer: Robert from Orange CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Removed two nuts and one screw to replace old igniter with new one. Replaced the nuts and screw. Turned on the oven, and it is working fine.

IGNITER WOULD GLOW BUT STOVE WOULDN'T LIGHT

  • Customer: ALAN from LUCK WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I NOTICED THAT THE IGNITOR WOULD GLOW BUT THE STOVE WOULDN'T LIGHT - I GOT THE MODEL NUMBER OF THE STOVE AND GOOGLED THE MAYTAG MODEL NUMBER. CAME UPON YOUR WEBSITE AND REALIZED THAT 94% OF THE TIME THE PROBLEM WAS THE AMPS WERE NOT ENOUGH TO LIGHT THE STOVE. I LOOKED AT ALL OF THE STORIES ON HOW EASY IT WAS TO FIX. I ORDERED THE PART AND RECEIVED IT WITHIN 3 DAYS. I OPENED THE DOOR PART WAY AND LIFTED IT STRAIGHT UP TO REMOVE IT. I PULLED OUT THE BOTTOM BROILER PLATE BY GRABBING THE BACK ON PULLING UP. I UNDSCREWED THE WING NUT OF THE FLAME BAR AND HAD EASY ACCESS TO THE IGNITER. I REMOVED THE TWO NUTS FROM THE OLD IGNITER. UNPLUGGED THE IGNITER FROM THE EASY ACCESS DOOR FROM THE BACK AND PLUGGED IN THE NEW IGNITER. REPLACED THE ACCESS DOOR AND ATTACHED THE IGNITER WITH THE TWO NUTS. PUT THE FLAME BAR BACK ON, PUT THE BROILER PLATE BACK ON, PUT THE DOOR BACK ON, PLUGGED IN THE STOVE TURNED IT ON AND SUCCESS. IT WAS SO EASY. I KNOW IN OUR AREA I WOULD HAVE PAID NEAR $200 FOR A SERVICE TECHNICIAN TO COME OUT AND DO WHAT I DID IN APPROX. 20 MINUTES AND $50 FOR THE PART. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOU WEBSITE TO HELP US NOT SO TALENTED APPLIANCE REPAIR HOMEOWNERS.

Strong odor of gas when oven in use. Oven took over a minute to light with low flame level (ie 1/4").

  • Customer: Linford from Cedarville NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Removed bottom plate from oven enclosure.
Removed the two screw holding the burner in place. Disconnected plug to element, making sure wire did not fall back into underside of oven.
Removed heating element. Replaced element & reinserted burner assembly into oven. Checked oven operation before reinstalling bottom plate. Oven ignition was less than 15 seconds with over one inch flame from burner.

oven in range would not stay lit or achieve temperature

  • Customer: Raymond from Jersey City NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I slide range away from wall, unplugged the electric. Lifted door off the hinges for easy access. The broiler drawer also comes right out. Removed racks and then took out bottom panel. The ignitor is mounted with two hex nut screws. They came out with a phillips head screwdriver. The plug connector is accessable from the rear or the range, there was nothing else to take off. I simply unplugged the connection, pulled the wire through the insulation, screwed on the new ignitor and pushed the plug and wire back through the insulation and plugged it in. The job took less than 25 minutes and that time included cleaning behind, under and inside the range! Oven lit first time it was turned on and works as good as new.

Oven wouldn't ignite

  • Customer: Anatoly from Palatine IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
1. Unplugged power cord and remove bottom oven tray.
2. Disengaged plastic connector from the back of the diverter valve.
3.Unscrewed two screws, holding present igniter.
4.Cut two wires, coming from the old igniter, with wire cutter (pliers).
5. Discarded old igniter assembly (in two parts -igniter and connector).
6. Attached connector part of new igniter to straightened coat hanger with insulation tape.
7. Fed the coat hanger from inside toward range back side by slightly displacing present oven insulation.
8. Removed coat hanger when got through.
9. Re-fastened new igniter with old screws.
10. Re-plugged plastic connector into diverter valve.
11. Re-plugged power cord and replace bottom tray.

Tested performance and am totally satisfied with the component and seller's service. There was no need for the extra materials in the kit.

Lower burner failed to light, broiler running fine

  • Customer: Christian from Washington DC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
Broiler lighting fine but main oven burner not lighting. I deduced the oven igniter was most likely the point of failure. Decided to replace empirically rather than time and money for service call. Process was about as easy as replace a computer part. Removed pan and flameguard. Unplugged part from below (after removing drawer). Such a simple plug I didn't bother to throw the breaker / power down the oven. Pulling it out to get to wall plug not an option. Unscrewed old part, saw a flaw had developed in the element. Screwed on the new part, plugged it in, inserted insulation in the hole. Tested for lighting - lit first time. Replaced guard and pan, oven has worked reliably since. Research time was 5x the repair time, but in all a fraction of time and money to have a "pro."

gas would go on and off -- oven slow to heat

  • Customer: Stephen from Evanston IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
Remove lower pan. This is tricky -- pull clips at the back of the pan forward (they may stick), Then push pan to back and lift forward portion up, exposing igniter and gas tube. Use nut driver or socket set to unscrew the two mounting screws. Had to use pliers at one point to pull on screws while turning as they were cross-threaded, perhaps due to heat. Cut wires to igniter. Pull out oven and look at exterior back of stove -- at bottom near the center opening. The power feeder wires to the igniter are red and terminate in a jack -- disconnect the igniter plug connector and pull the cut wire through. Back to the inside of the stove: you now have to force the connector for the new igniter through the insulation at the back. Pull some of the old insulation out to make this possible -- new insulation is provided in the kit. Then at back of stove connect new igniter plug to power feed jack. Then screw in new igniter with the original screws. I had to use pliers again while turning to force them past the cross-threaded area. Replace bottom pan and you are in business, saving a lot of money!!
All Instructions for the 11JS-10K
46-60 of 172