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11111
11111 Kenmore Wall Oven - Overview
Sections of the 11111
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This part number matches the current model number 11111
PartSelect #: PS1405229
Manufacturer #: 11111
No Longer Available
Starter Pulley--See Service
This part number matches the current model number 11111
PartSelect #: PS9881855
Manufacturer #: 11111
No Longer Available
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Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit
PartSelect #: PS1573892
Manufacturer #: 12400035
The flat style oven igniter kit is used in gas ovens and ranges. It is what provides the heat needed to open the gas valve, and it ignites fuel for the burner assembly. This part can be used for both ...
$57.79
In Stock
Door Seal - Top
PartSelect #: PS11743943
Manufacturer #: WP7212P006-60
This oven door seal creates a protective seal around an oven door to prevent heat from running out of a closed oven and keeps room air from entering the oven. This part is 17.5 inches long and made o...
$71.04
In Stock
Oven Door Seal
PartSelect #: PS11743942
Manufacturer #: WP7212P003-60
This oven door seal is fifteen and a half inches long. It is made of rubber and has a metal hook on either end to hold it in place. This seal sits on top of the glass window pane.
No Longer Available
Gas Oven Safety Valve
PartSelect #: PS1570534
Manufacturer #: 12002128
This valve has a 24" cap tube for natural gas and also comes with a liquid propane orifice.
No Longer Available
Questions And Answers for 11111
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Common Symptoms of the 11111
[Viewing 7 of 7]Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Element will not heat
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Oven not heating evenly
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Gas smell
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven would not work but the Broiler did
The oven had been working intermittently for a while and after repeated threats of starvation from my spouse I finally took a look even though it was summer and the grill was working fine. The Igniter would glow red when the oven was turned on but the gas would not flow to it no matter what the temperature setting. I searched online and f
... Read more
ound this site that explained it was possible for the igniter to glow but if it was not drawing the correct amperage (because its resistance was too high) then the main brain would not allow the gas valve to open. So I took a look at the broiler and it had the same igniter. I measure the resistance of both of them and the oven igniters resistance was higher (don't rememeber the reading) then I moved the Igniter from the broiler to the oven and the oven worked from there it was just a matter of ordering the part. End of story except for I am still doing all the cooking on the barbecue outside.
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Parts Used:
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James from Ferndale, MI
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
337 of 371 people
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Oven would'nt light
In most cases if your oven won't light or takes a long time to light you may have a bad igniter even if it glows. To check the igniter use a voltmeter to check for 120 A/C volts going to the igniter and3.5 A/C volts going between the ingniter and the gas valve. My bad ingniter glowed but had only only 3.0 A/C volts going to the gas valve
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for the oven. The new igniter took only 45 minutes to install and supply's 3.6 A/C volts to the gas valve and the oven works fine.
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Parts Used:
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Charles from Charlestown, RI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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oven failed to light
My son replaced the broiler igniter this spring, so I had a clue as to what was required. This was even easier and since I had back surgery recently & my husband was out of town that was a giant plus!
I unplugged the oven, removed the oven door, found the release latch and removed the oven floor. I then removed the 2 screws ... Read more that held the igniter in place (I received this stove used and the igniter had evidently been replaced before as it was the same shorter version included in the kit). I pulled the igniter out then removed some insulation and tugged the connector out of the oven floor. I disconnected the igniter and plugged the new one in. I then replaced the connector in the floor, attached the igniter with the screws, replaced the insulation and did a test run (plugged in the oven & turned it on). That was successful so I put the floor back in and put the door back on.
Ta-Dah!
I unplugged the oven, removed the oven door, found the release latch and removed the oven floor. I then removed the 2 screws ... Read more that held the igniter in place (I received this stove used and the igniter had evidently been replaced before as it was the same shorter version included in the kit). I pulled the igniter out then removed some insulation and tugged the connector out of the oven floor. I disconnected the igniter and plugged the new one in. I then replaced the connector in the floor, attached the igniter with the screws, replaced the insulation and did a test run (plugged in the oven & turned it on). That was successful so I put the floor back in and put the door back on.
Ta-Dah!
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Parts Used:
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Beryl from Dawsonville, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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