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Models > 11086980100 > Instructions

11086980100 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 11086980100 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 11086980100
1,156-1,170 of 1,240
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The dryer just stopped working one day

  • Customer: Tobias from Glenside, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
To make sure the dryer didn't die catastrophically, I checked to make sure the timer, the light, and the push to start start switch and the door switch were still working. After they were diagnosed to be working properly, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it back from the wall so I would have enough room to work behind it. The first item you will need is the wiring diagram. If you do not have one, one can be obtained online by using your dryer brand and model number. The next thing you will need is a quality digital multimeter that measures resistance or continuity. The last thing you will need is a 1/4" nutdriver. The first thing you will need to do is remove the exhaust tube from the back of the dryer. The second step is to remove a small black plate located near a green ground screw. The 3rd step is to remove the large black cover on the back of the dryer. Once this is removed, you will need to locate the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is a small component that has 2 blue wires connected to it. It is located on the housing where the steam from your clothes leads to the exhaust port. The first thing you need to do is disconnect the 2 blue wires. Once the wires are disconnected, set the multimeter to resistance. The unit of resistance is ohms and the greek letter omega is used. The red lead of your multimeter goes one metal tabe of the fuse and the black lead goes on the other one. If the multimeter measures 0. L ohms, then the fuse is bad and needs to be replaced. If the multimeter reads 00.00 ohms then the fuse is good and you have another problem. I hope these instructions were useful.

Door Switch Actuator Spring/Lever & Door Catch Replacement

  • Customer: Charles from Marysvile, WA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Open the top and replaced the switch bracket with the actuator lever then inserted new door catch.

Broken Belt

  • Customer: Jeffrey from Bensalem, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Watch the video you sent me, and every thing fell into place

Roller hub ID severely worn.

  • Customer: Walter from Moncks Corner, SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Removed top and front of dryer. Removed drum. Removed old rollers from spindles. Installed new rollers and new retainer triangles. Replaced drum. Re-installed front and top.

Lots of noise, then locked up. Drum support bearings failed, locked up, twisted sideways.

  • Customer: Josh from interlachen, FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I made it very difficult. I didn't research the repair. My back is old. It's easier if you just You Tube a video. The top roller you have to take drum completely out. The bottom one, The one that failed for me, you can actually do it without taking anything apart. Access it at bottom back, two holes. I do not have small hands, it would have been easier. Channel Locks inside, 9/16th socket outside. That will loosen main axle. Then use short screwdriver or socket driver on small bracket connected to bottom of unit. Mine had one screw holding it in. Easy bottom fix. I don't really recommend replacing top till it needs it. You can only buy them by the pair too. You will be ready when time comes. I found top roller didn't actually need replacing, did it cause I had it all apart. Don't fix if not broke, right? Trust, BUT, Verify. Smaller hands, would have helped me. All I got.

Replace Drive Belt

  • Customer: William from Marlborough, CT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
What a pain in the butt to route the belt thru the tensioner! There's room for only one hand in there. The guys who do this for a living must have some secret. My solution was to drill a 3/16 hole thru the side, make a j-hook from 8-32 threaded rod, use that and a wing nut to pre-load the tensioner, route the belt, then slowly back off the wing nut until the belt was tight. It works. . . .

Broken part

  • Customer: Cassandra from Chicago, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the part. It just slid right in to the appropriate space on the dryer.

No heat but dryer runs other wise

  • Customer: Donald from Burlington, CT
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
there were 5 ,1/4 screws in the back panel . The heater box was right at the rear when the back was removed.. Replaced the two controls that were in the kit with a 1/4 nut driver. Checked the terminals for tightness and contact. No discoloration on contacts. Ran unit after reassembly for 20 min cycle to test ,Put into service

Dryer would start and run but no heat was produced.

  • Customer: andres from yucaipa, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Watched several videos online and was suggested that the thermal fuse was bad, so i replaced it but no fix. So i checked the previews Q&A from other costumers and watched the videos on how to replace different parts. I first looked thru the peep hole on the bottom left part of the dryer and saw the igniter glow for about 10 sec every minute but no flame would start. So i replaced the igniter, the flame sensor, and the coils all at once. I know thats not the proper way to troubleshoot something but i was gonna take the drum out and everything so mind as well replace them all. Dryer works like new and dont have to listen to the wife complaint anymore!!!

Broken Belt

  • Customer: gary w from Saint Louis, MO
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Pop off the top , Then one screw holds each side . slide belt around drum and then preload tensioner as per instructions . Simple!

Did not heat

  • Customer: Richard from Hesperia, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Took the back cover off. Replaced fuse and put the cover back on. Worked great.

My dryer just suddenly wouldn't come on.

  • Customer: Walter from LaVergne, TN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I ordered the Thermal Fuse, as it appeared to be the problem. A friend suggested that as long as the price was fairly reasonable, I should go ahead and get two of them and keep one for later. I ordered/paid for two of them. I put the Thermal Fuse in, and when I attempted to turn the dryer on, it ran for about 5 minutes, at a very hot heat, dried the towels, and then would not come on again. I thought it had kicked the circuit breaker, but after checking, found it hadn't. I watched the youtubes.com again and found that there were three other parts that it could possibly be. I ordered them, and replaced all of them. One of them had 4 prongs but two on the new one. I left two wires off, and sure enough, it would not run. I borrowed an ohm meter, and found out my old part was still good, but that in the process it had blown the Thermal Fuse, of which I just happened to have an extra, and after installing it, it is now in perfect running order. The total repair was about $80-100, rather than a $75.00 bill for service and heaven only knows for the parts at the repairman's price! Thanks youtube, Parts Select and my friend for his advice! Walter

Blown hearing element

  • Customer: douglas from fulton, KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Removed vent hose. Removed back of dryer. Raised top lid of dryer. My model only had a half removable back. Removed screw and spring clip from top of heater chute. Removed wires from heater element. Pulled back top of heater chute. Removed heater chute. Removed screw holding heater element. Removed element. Slid new element in chute. Replaced screw. Replaced chute on dryer. Replaced spring clip and screw. Reattached heater wires. Set dryer top down in place. Plugged dryer in. Turn dryer on to make sure it was working. Replaced back plate on dryer. Reattached dryer hose. You are finished

Drum stopped turning

  • Customer: james from blue point, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
After removing the back, I realized I absolutely did not know what I was doing. I went to google put in my model number, and went to your web page. The rest is history. Went to the video watched it and went back to the dryer and after cleaning up the back, put it back and removed the top and front as per video. The parts came in a few days and replaced the belt and idler arm n about 2 min. I am not kidding. The wife held the drum while I put the front back on. One thing I could not separate the door switch so I just unscrewed it from the fron panel. The dryeris 20 years old, and your web page will put the Maytag repairman on the unemployment line.

Dryer made kind of a grinding noise when it started. A repair technician looked at it and said it needed new drum support rollers and shafts.

  • Customer: Janis from Lakewood, CO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the instructions on the Part Select website for drum support rollers and shaft. The videos were great! (There wasn't one for the right side shaft but I could extrapolate from the other instructions.) The hardest part for me was releasing the dryer top - the video made it look so easy but it took me a long time to get the little clips to release with the putty knife. Also, tightening the new right side shaft required the help of another person as my arms are not long enough to hold the shaft with pliers while I tightened the nut in the back of the dryer (and I did have to remove the back cover for this shaft). I would recommend to anyone even a little bit handy to attempt a repair following part select's videos.
All Instructions for the 11086980100
1,156-1,170 of 1,240