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Models > 11084832201 > Instructions

11084832201 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

All installation instructions for 11084832201 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer dryer combo repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 11084832201
46-60 of 609
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Flashing E1 code for a bad thermistor

  • Customer: John from Cedar Rapids, IA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the thermistor earlier, but the code was still flashing. I noticed the heater terminals were charred and pretty well covered in carbon. So, I replaced the heater, the thermostat and thermal fuse and replaced the 3/8" spade terminals on the heater wires. (These are hard to find - most electrical spades terminals are .250. Also, I crimped and soldered these for a connection with the lowest resistance possible). After all that, the code still flashed! I let the explatives fly, calmed down, and ran the control board test. (This is done by pressing "more time" "less time" "more time" "less time" in succession.) The control board was passing all the tests, but the thermistor test, and the only thing is in this circuit is the thermistor, the wires, the connector to the control board, and some circuit on the control board that involves a few resistors and the "brain" chip. So, I checked the terminals at the thermistor, the wires up to the control board and the connector at the board. The control board connector was fairly dust encrusted, so I unplugged it, cleaned the control board terminals and sucked away all the lint and dust. Finally, I carefully removed earch crimp terminal from the Molex connector (the white female connector) and cleaned and bent them to yield a better connection to the terminals on the control board. I put it all back together, and thus far it is working fine.

TOb stopped turning after a week or so of high pitched "squeals" coming from inside the dryer.

  • Customer: Robert from Princeton, WV
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I recommend you order the idler pulley as soon as you start to hear the unusual noise indicating metal against metal. Replace the idler pulley before it fails and possibly causes more damage to the drive system. Simply removed the power cord at the back of the dryer and then the multiple screws holding the back panel in place as well as the clip holding the exhaust vent in place. You may need to remove the top panel to access a few of these screws. A diagram of the belt routing is in the paperwork I found behind the front lower panel of the dryer. This too is easily removed with just a few screws.

Dryer tumbled but would not heat

  • Customer: LARRY from NEWNAN, GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Used socket set to remove the two hex-head screws from the bottom flange of the toe panel. Manually pulled the panel out at the bottom, pulled down, and removed the panel. Looked to right and found heater shield. Removed heather shield using socket set. Removed the two wires from the terminal block (had to use a little WD40 to loosen connection and wiped up afterwards). Removed the holding screw holding the heating element using the socket set. Pulled HARD on old heating element using pliers and a rag (protection from accidental cut-sharp edges). Once out, the new element slid in relatively easy. Screwed the new element back into place and re-connected the element wires, then put the heater shield back into place. Put the toe panel back into place. Tested and worked great! The only thing that made this "easy" but not "really easy" is that I had to really pull HARD on the old element to get it out...with the sharp edges and tight fit in play, you'll need to pay attention to safety when removing the old element.

Replace broken handle

  • Customer: Nancy from Anchorage, AK
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Only need to remove 6 small phillips head screws. 4 around top half (inside on door) plus 2 under door window (you have to bend down to see. Pull outer plastic ring off, remove 2 screws holding handle on, replace handle and reverse process.

Broken handle on dryer door

  • Customer: Teresa from Baltimore, MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Don't take the star screws and the screws at the hinge out. Unnecessary

dryer will not dry the cloths

  • Customer: mike from jensen beach, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
1st. i removed the two screws that holds the cover.
2nd. -vacumn (most time used)around to find the screws that hold the metal heat tube and shield.
3 rd. removing the screws tip the front of the tube up and pull out from the back.my element was clipped in place. I then pulled the element out and replaced the thermostat (tip: replace all t'stats around the heat element). it is as simple as reading the repair stories

idler pully sqwieling

  • Customer: Jerry Duty from Fort Walton Beach, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
once the back is off remove belt from tentioner and remove v clip. smooth shaft with wd-40 and scotch brite , then install new idler replace v clip
and your done !!!

Door latch (female part) was broken.

  • Customer: JEANMARIE from BELLEROSE, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I used a screwdriver to remove the old part and pushed the new part in with my fingers, it was very easy. If I could do it, anyone can. I was a lot cheaper then having a repair man come to house. I am very glad I found your site online, I will definitely be using your company again.

Dryer gasket detached from screen

  • Customer: Richard from Duarte, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Received in two days, open box, installed part. Pretty easy, fast service. I'm a repeat customer and will use these guys in the future.

worn out part

  • Customer: John from Tucson, AZ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 11 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was fairly easy. The most timely part of the repair was removing the twelve screws from the back panel to expose the repair.

Dryer was working but not generating heat.

  • Customer: Laurie from Natick, MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I was reluctant to call a repair service. Typically when an appliance is as old as my dryer (14 years old), service people encourage you to replace, not repair. I had replaced the dryer's motor within the last 5 years and believed my dryer still had life to it. At first, I tried cleaning the lint build up from the dryer cavity and hoses. This worked but only for a couple of days. After reading other successful repair stories on the website, I decided to try replacing the thermal fuse. It was so easy. The part was easily identifiable. It was just a little hard to yank off the connecting wires. Good as new and no service call.

Dryer would not turn

  • Customer: Kim K from Hurst, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
My dryer starter squeaking in December 09 and the repairman told me that it would cost between $200-$500. I did not let him fix it as this machine is only 3 years old. When the part finally broke in April 10, I was ready to junk this and just buy a used dryer. My husband went on line and quickly figured out the part he would need to do the repairs. It cost under $20.00. Now my dryer is fixed and running and there are no squeaks. Thank you

Dryer wouldn't heat

  • Customer: Suzanne from Saint Francisville, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Following the very helpful instructions that I found at PartSelect.com I was able to open the dryer and access the heating element which I suspected was bad. I realized later that I didn't need to open up as much as I did but the job was easy. In the future I would only open the panel below the door to access the element.

Just to make sure that it wasn't a problem with a thermostat or thermal fuse I also checked continuity from the temperature selector knob on the control panel to the heating element. When I verified continuity (zero resistance) I knew that the element was bad. Once I removed it I could see that one of the coils was broken and I should have just checked that first and not bothered opening up the control panel at the top.

Still it was less than an hour of work total. I have some experience with DIY projects but have not worked on appliances before. Thanks for the great site with good instructions and lower costs than the local parts counter.

no heat

  • Customer: Hal from Edgewater, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
unplugged from elect power.took off front lower panel.removed heater heat shield w/1/4 in nut driver,could see heat element. it looks like at thin metal twisted phone cord. i used a continuity tester to establish if there was a break in it. there was. i removed 2 1/4in screws on the right side of the element,marked wire placement slid out old element & slid in new one put screws back in connected wires,put heat shield back on . tested dryer ,ok good to go put on front cover.!!!!! PS sears parts wanted 15$ more

Rear dryer drum seal came out

  • Customer: William from Pontiac, MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 12 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
Used my Whirlpool Dryer User Instructions Manual and followed instructions and used the Cabinet Parts page to see the diagrams.
All Instructions for the 11084832201
46-60 of 609