Models > 11082822102 > Instructions

11082822102 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for 11082822102 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 11082822102
46-60 of 568
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The plastic handle on the door broke off

  • Customer: Bernadine from Anchorage AK
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I removed all of the screws on the inside of the door. Unfortunately, I found out that I only needed to remove four of the screws after the glass fell out of the door. After re-installing the glass and removing the correct four screrws, I figured out that I had to pry off the plastic face plate to get to the two screws that held on the handle. After removing these screws, I was able to get the broken handle out and the new handle in. I then reinstalled the plastic face plate and replaced the four screws that held it in place.

Broken handle on dryer door

  • Customer: Teresa from Baltimore MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Don't take the star screws and the screws at the hinge out. Unnecessary

My dryer conked. Would not turn on, but before that happened it was taking way too long to dry the clothes and the dryer would stop in the middle of a cycle.

  • Customer: brenda from Newman Lake WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Went on this website and found a story that was similar. I ordered the parts which arrived quickly and I replaced the Thermal Fuse and heating element and it was fixed! The whole repair cost me $24.88! Way cheaper than calling a repair man.
Heater thing was part # 3387134
and the fuse was 3392519

Flashing E1 code for a bad thermistor

  • Customer: John from Cedar Rapids IA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the thermistor earlier, but the code was still flashing. I noticed the heater terminals were charred and pretty well covered in carbon. So, I replaced the heater, the thermostat and thermal fuse and replaced the 3/8" spade terminals on the heater wires. (These are hard to find - most electrical spades terminals are .250. Also, I crimped and soldered these for a connection with the lowest resistance possible). After all that, the code still flashed! I let the explatives fly, calmed down, and ran the control board test. (This is done by pressing "more time" "less time" "more time" "less time" in succession.) The control board was passing all the tests, but the thermistor test, and the only thing is in this circuit is the thermistor, the wires, the connector to the control board, and some circuit on the control board that involves a few resistors and the "brain" chip. So, I checked the terminals at the thermistor, the wires up to the control board and the connector at the board. The control board connector was fairly dust encrusted, so I unplugged it, cleaned the control board terminals and sucked away all the lint and dust. Finally, I carefully removed earch crimp terminal from the Molex connector (the white female connector) and cleaned and bent them to yield a better connection to the terminals on the control board. I put it all back together, and thus far it is working fine.

no heat

  • Customer: Hal from Edgewater FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
unplugged from elect power.took off front lower panel.removed heater heat shield w/1/4 in nut driver,could see heat element. it looks like at thin metal twisted phone cord. i used a continuity tester to establish if there was a break in it. there was. i removed 2 1/4in screws on the right side of the element,marked wire placement slid out old element & slid in new one put screws back in connected wires,put heat shield back on . tested dryer ,ok good to go put on front cover.!!!!! PS sears parts wanted 15$ more

Dryer not spinning

  • Customer: john from goldsboro NC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
I took off the front panel via 2 screws on the inside of the dryer with the top panel in the maintenance position. Pulled out the tub(cut my hand pretty bad in the process but continued). Did some cleaning and I had to google how the belt tensioner goes into place. Rather difficult on your own i held the belt and placed the tub back into place while placing the belt around the tub putting it in the correct area. thats pretty much it and began reinstalling the parts i had removed.. easy fix now that i have done it once. This is all after my landlords said they werent replacing it and just to have this one hauled off, so all in all i have a 26 dollar dryer now:)

Idler Pulley broke

  • Customer: Keith from Richmond VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I disconnect the power, then the vent pipe. I removed the back panel of the dryer to access the pulley and removed the belt. Replaced the back and put everything back together.

Motor out

  • Customer: Jeff from Hutchinson KS
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 22 of 58 people found this instruction helpful
I found that the dryer would not start turning by itself. Could manually help it start and it would run fine. Anyway, after a new set of rollers, belt, etc. found that the motor still would not start by itself. Ordered new motor and it was taken care of. You have to take the back off, remove the belt and remove the tumbler. After that, it is fairly easy. Two screws hold the motor down and then you can take the whole motor assembly out. Be careful removing the fan as it takes a 3/8 socket drive and it is plastic. Two clips hold the motor to the assembly. Needle nose pliers takes care of it. Replace and all should be good.

worn out part

  • Customer: John from Tucson AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was fairly easy. The most timely part of the repair was removing the twelve screws from the back panel to expose the repair.

Dryer wouldn't start

  • Customer: Ryan from Mundelein IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
My 80 series Kenmore dryer wouldn't start so I looked online for a solution to the problem. One of the sites I found stated that the problem could be as simple as a thermal fuse if other potential issues could be ruled out. I ordered the part on a Monday from PartSelect with standard FedEx ground shipping - stated it could be 3-5 business days. To my amazement, the part arrived the next day! Awesome!!! I watched the video on the PartSelect site to make sure I knew how to fix it, then followed the easy instructions. All I needed to do was use the nutdriver to remove the back cover from the dryer, unplug the two wires going into the thermal fuse, remove the old fuse, and pop the new one in. Then I just plugged the wires into the new fuse, replaced the cover and voila, the dryer worked like a champ! Thank you PartSelect for saving me a needlessly high repair bill!!

Dryer Would Not Heat

  • Customer: John from Raleigh NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
The dryer stopped heating. Took the front lower panel off of the dryer and obtained the troubleshooting instructions stored there. Used an ohmmeter (most volt meters also have an ohmmeter) and tested all the electrical components one by one (thermostat, thermal fuse, heater coil - following the troubleshooting instructions provided with the dryer) and found that I didn't have any resistance across my heater element. Removed it and sure enough there was a break in the heater coil. Ordered a new heater element from PartSelect for less than $50 and replaced it myself. Saved myself a good bit of money repairing my dryer myself. It was very straight forward and easy. If you can follow easy to read instructions you can do it.

The old door catch failed. Clothes won't dry with door open !

  • Customer: Theresa from Norfolk VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Old door catch came out, new one slipped in. All works great.

dryer will not dry the cloths

  • Customer: mike from jensen beach FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
1st. i removed the two screws that holds the cover.
2nd. -vacumn (most time used)around to find the screws that hold the metal heat tube and shield.
3 rd. removing the screws tip the front of the tube up and pull out from the back.my element was clipped in place. I then pulled the element out and replaced the thermostat (tip: replace all t'stats around the heat element). it is as simple as reading the repair stories

my dryer would not heat up any longer

  • Customer: Chris from Great Bend KS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I had already taken the coil out of the heating housing to check for a break in the heating element. I took this time to vacuum out all the lint inside the cabinet. I slid the new coil into the housing and reattached the wires. Plugged the dryer back in and turned it on to make sure the coil heated up. It worked so I put all the screws back in and fastend the front back on and were in bussiness!

Dryer was working but not generating heat.

  • Customer: Laurie from Natick MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I was reluctant to call a repair service. Typically when an appliance is as old as my dryer (14 years old), service people encourage you to replace, not repair. I had replaced the dryer's motor within the last 5 years and believed my dryer still had life to it. At first, I tried cleaning the lint build up from the dryer cavity and hoses. This worked but only for a couple of days. After reading other successful repair stories on the website, I decided to try replacing the thermal fuse. It was so easy. The part was easily identifiable. It was just a little hard to yank off the connecting wires. Good as new and no service call.
All Instructions for the 11082822102
46-60 of 568