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Models > 11082822101 > Instructions

11082822101 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 11082822101 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 11082822101
31-45 of 327
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Thermal fuse was bad.

  • Customer: Brad from Odessa, MO
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 16 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Did an Ohm test on the old Thermal Fuse found it to be bad. Replaced it with a new and the dryer is back to working great. Your suggestions saved approximatley $150.

Thanks for the help.

Dryer not spinning

  • Customer: john from goldsboro, NC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
I took off the front panel via 2 screws on the inside of the dryer with the top panel in the maintenance position. Pulled out the tub(cut my hand pretty bad in the process but continued). Did some cleaning and I had to google how the belt tensioner goes into place. Rather difficult on your own i held the belt and placed the tub back into place while placing the belt around the tub putting it in the correct area. thats pretty much it and began reinstalling the parts i had removed.. easy fix now that i have done it once. This is all after my landlords said they werent replacing it and just to have this one hauled off, so all in all i have a 26 dollar dryer now:)

The felt strip on the filter had come undone.

  • Customer: Rebecca from Laredo, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 17 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
Took the old filter out and inserted the new one- works great!!

TOb stopped turning after a week or so of high pitched "squeals" coming from inside the dryer.

  • Customer: Robert from Princeton, WV
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
I recommend you order the idler pulley as soon as you start to hear the unusual noise indicating metal against metal. Replace the idler pulley before it fails and possibly causes more damage to the drive system. Simply removed the power cord at the back of the dryer and then the multiple screws holding the back panel in place as well as the clip holding the exhaust vent in place. You may need to remove the top panel to access a few of these screws. A diagram of the belt routing is in the paperwork I found behind the front lower panel of the dryer. This too is easily removed with just a few screws.

noisy drum

  • Customer: Jeff from Mesa, AZ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
the job would have gone faster if the right parts had been sent in the first place. I would have never paid for two day shipping. In the repair, I removed the rear panel, clipped the plastic triangle holding the bearing, installed the new bearing and new clip.

Idler Pulley broke

  • Customer: Keith from Richmond, VA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
I disconnect the power, then the vent pipe. I removed the back panel of the dryer to access the pulley and removed the belt. Replaced the back and put everything back together.

Dryer would not start - bad door switch

  • Customer: Paul from Robbinsville, NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 20 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
Removed to top panel - two screws in the back
Removed the screws from the metal panel holding the electronic board, remove the wire clips and rotated the metal panel up and out of the way.
Disconnected the three wire connector to the door switch cable - There must be a special tool for this as a basically destroyed the connector on the door switch cable.
Use a pliers to pull out the door switch from the front. This was not easy and I wound up having to destroy the door switch to get it out.
Inserted the new door switch cable first from the fron of the dryer and connected the new door switch cable connector to the dryer wiring harness.
Rotated the main electronic panel back in place, re-inserted the cable harness and re-inserted the bracket screws.
Re-installed the top panel and screws.

Dryer runs with no heat

  • Customer: Paul from Bradford, MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
It was easier to remove the blower manifold cover, (3 screws) to get at the heater element. Remove the heat shield, disconnect the two wires from the element. There is another screw on the side holding the element in the housing. Remove it and slide the element torward you. I used pliers as it was a snug fit. Replace. Good time to vacuum the whole area.

doo handle broken

  • Customer: Keith from Anthem, AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the directions of a previous customer, using a Phillips screwdriver to remove only the Phillips screws on the inside of the door. Removed the outer plastic ring around the door. Replaced the handle (attached by two screws) and put the plastic ring with a new handle back on the outside of the door.

dryer wouldnt heat

  • Customer: JEFF from LEBANON, TN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 17 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
First i tested each part for continuity and found out that the thermal fuse was bad. So ordered the part and went ahead and got thermostat and element to ensure no problems in the future since I already was in there.

seal for lint filter came off

  • Customer: John from Midland, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 13 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled out the old and slid in the new filter

Door catch on dryer door broke

  • Customer: Lynne from Jamestown, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
PartSelect sent me three different door catches with instructions for choosing the correct one. I did choose and simply inserted it into the slot and voile! All finished and it works great now! PartSelect had the part delivered the day after my order was placed. I would suggest doing business with them to anyone asking who they might contact for a part. I especially appreciated the ease of identifying and ordering from them. I was able to do all of this on-line via their website.

Flashing E1 code for a bad thermistor

  • Customer: John from Cedar Rapids, IA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the thermistor earlier, but the code was still flashing. I noticed the heater terminals were charred and pretty well covered in carbon. So, I replaced the heater, the thermostat and thermal fuse and replaced the 3/8" spade terminals on the heater wires. (These are hard to find - most electrical spades terminals are .250. Also, I crimped and soldered these for a connection with the lowest resistance possible). After all that, the code still flashed! I let the explatives fly, calmed down, and ran the control board test. (This is done by pressing "more time" "less time" "more time" "less time" in succession.) The control board was passing all the tests, but the thermistor test, and the only thing is in this circuit is the thermistor, the wires, the connector to the control board, and some circuit on the control board that involves a few resistors and the "brain" chip. So, I checked the terminals at the thermistor, the wires up to the control board and the connector at the board. The control board connector was fairly dust encrusted, so I unplugged it, cleaned the control board terminals and sucked away all the lint and dust. Finally, I carefully removed earch crimp terminal from the Molex connector (the white female connector) and cleaned and bent them to yield a better connection to the terminals on the control board. I put it all back together, and thus far it is working fine.

Broken handle on dryer door

  • Customer: Teresa from Baltimore, MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Don't take the star screws and the screws at the hinge out. Unnecessary

Replace broken handle

  • Customer: Nancy from Anchorage, AK
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Only need to remove 6 small phillips head screws. 4 around top half (inside on door) plus 2 under door window (you have to bend down to see. Pull outer plastic ring off, remove 2 screws holding handle on, replace handle and reverse process.
All Instructions for the 11082822101
31-45 of 327