11072514102 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

replaced the two coils, which took about 10 minutes

On the Amana dryer, I had to remove the top panel. then the front panel to access the burner assembly. I also had to remove the gas pipe coming to the burner, because I replaced the tube burner assembly at the same time. There is only one screw that holds that back end of that gas pipe. The thermal flame sensor is on the left side of the burning chamber, with only one small Phillips head screw. just remove the 2 wires, keeping track of which terminal they belong. Just twist the sensor out of the small slot, and out it comes. The tube burner assembly is fastened with 2 screws. The entire burner assembly comes out in one piece, but be real careful not to bang the igniter when removing it. The coil assembly has 2 wires, which you cannot get wrong, because one has 2 prongs, the other has 3 wires.The local repair shop wanted 90 bucks per hour, plus parts, and I installed both the burner tube and radiant flame sensor for around $80.

Unplugged electrical cord to dryer. removed the front cover 2 screws on the bottom. Lifted front cover off. Unplugged the 2 wires going to the old flame sensor. Used nut driver to remove 1 screw holding the flame sensor in. Removed old sensor replaced with new one. Reattached the 2 wires back on to the new flame sensor. Tested. Flame stayed on longer! Dryer works great dryer is 20 years old and still running like new now. Part was the exact match I needed.

The hard part of the repair was the diagnosis. I'd take the front off the dryer, start it up, and the flame would fire up. I'd put it all together, start it, hear the flame start, leave, and it would still be running 4 hours later with the clothes wet. Discovered that one of the gas valve coils would work cool and show connectivity, but would stop working shortly after starting. To check the flame and remove the front, remove the door - 1 phillips screw in each hinge, then jiggle up and down pulling away from the dryer. Then, two screws on the opposite side. Facing the opening, grasp front and pull toward you to swing it down. You can temporarily put the door back with the front off while you start it to watch the flame cycle. On regular heat, the flame will run pretty much continuously - in my case, it would start, run for about 1 minute then stop. I assumed it was cycling, but it really runs longer than that. Coil replacement was easy - unplug the dryer, pry off the electrical connectors, remove the two screws on the left which hold the retainer containing the coils Then pull the coils straight up and replace with new ones. The one with three connectors is in front; the one with two connectors in the back. There are plastic tabs on the coils which fit into holes on the retainer. Reassemble in reverse order. To confirm diagnosis, you can use an ohmmeter to check continuity of the coils. The front coil has continuity between the center connector and each of the side connectors. The back coil has continuity between the two connectors. If you're not getting a reading at 1k ohms, it's probably an open coil and needs replacement.

First I watched Partselect's wonderful videos on what could cause the dryer from having to use multiple cycles to dry and the parts involved. I then took the back of the dryer off and tested all three parts with a multi-meter to determine which part had no resistance. The thermal fuse did not register any thing, so I ordered the part and a few days later put it in. The dryer dries in just one cycle saving on the cost of repair and electric bill. Partselect.com is my first go to sight for any repair. They make it so simple and comprehensive that any one can do the repair. I then used duct tape to make a secure connection to the duct pipe in order for it to properly vent to the outside.

Previously I had repaired two washing machines and now a dryer, which is why my mom nick named me Josephine. So ladies you can make the repairs as well.

Replaced cycling thermostat but wasn't the problem. Tested the coils with ohm meter & found no read on the one with 3 prongs. Replaced both anyway. Top of dryer is held on with 2 clips, popped it off to reveal 2 screws on front panel. Bottom is held by 2 clips must lift straight up. Removed bracket that holds the coils in & removed wires. They only go on 1 way. Installed new coils , no more problems.

should have bought and used a voltmeter first. replaced heating element and fuse and other thermostat before I got a voltmeter and realized it was the cycling thermostat that was bad. easy after that

Remove the exhaust tubing connection and the back panel (five nut screws). Locate the fuse; it is just to the right of the lint trap shoot, midway between the top and bottom of the back panel area. Replacement is visually intuitive.

Went to YouTube It was real easy.

Removed front panel unscrewed the 2 screws on the coil cover. The coil with two prongs had to upside down 3 the prong coil right side up that only way the cove will fit, plug them in re attach the cover and your done

I ordered the part, watched the video and made the repair in less than thirty minutes. This was much cheaper than purchasing a new dryer.

Changed out the thermal fuse because it was easy. Changed the Igniter after that failed to fix the problem. Unfortunately after the igniter it still worked part of the time. I realized that I sometimes wasn't hearing the solenoid click after seeing the igniter glow. Changed the solenoids and we're back in business now.

Pull off the front panel of the dryer, and replaced the thermal fuse. Very easy. Plus, vacuumed out the whole inside of the dryer, the rear and the tube running from the dryer to the outside. Will be doing this at least every 3 months to be safe. You would be surprised at how much lint builds up inside the machine. Eve though we clean the filter trap after every use of a load of clothes.

Repair went fine. Really easy for the most part. Unfortunately it didn't solve my problem. Great place to get parts though. I'm going to continue my search for the source of the noise

Thank you for the the installation tip I received along with the part. The suggestion of removing the front panel to install the belt made the installation go very smoothly.