11072064100 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

It took me nearly 3 hrs. but I don't do this for a living. Your instruction video was most helpful, madeit easy to know what to do & how to repair dryer. Part Select is top on my list. The site is easy to use & tells you what to replace based on the problem you are experiencing. The instinctual video are the best in the BUZ! Many thanks for making difficult repair much easier. David

Unplug the Dryer; remove the lower exterior cover and white plastic drum vent with nut drivers. These two fuses will be setting on top of the function board in front of the gas heating tube.
With a short screwdriver, remove the fuse cover/holder, lift fuse and unplug, replace, re-plug, screw back the cover/holder and you’re done.
Reverse your initial actions...

I replaced the two coils that regulate the gas to turn on and the other to hold open to burn, unplug two connections and remove 2 screws and then replace the coils less then 5 minutes to do this,

Followed standard instructions regarding removal of top first & then the front panels. Realized after following this process that I did not have to remove top, but only one of front panels to obtain access to moisture sensor. If I have to do this again, the replacement of sensor will be much easier.

Igniter would glow and flame would burn for about 30 seconds then a rattling noise would start and the flame would go out. Replaced the coil and all is well. Very simple and inexpensive. One of the easiest repairs I've ever done. Video was very helpful.

Both washer and dryer always worked perfectly. Suddenly, dryer wasn’t drying laundry properly. Problem... no heat. Cheapest price I could find calling for appliance service was about $160 to replace coil set but no one would tell me this would fix the problem. This was after calling a number of repair firms and trying to get a somewhat close estimate of what my problem was and what the repair cost. Not knowing, I might have just paid the $160 but what turned me off was having a service call fee of anywhere from $50-$80 with no one willing to tell me what the problem might most likely be before coming out or give me an estimate over the phone other than a range of $160 - $275. I just did not want to have someone come out for $50 -$80 and tell me that I needed to spend $275 and still owe them the service call even if I did not agree.
Found diagnostic and repair instructions help on line. The diagnostic information indicated a high probability, roughly 50%, that replacing the coil set would solve the problem and found the coil set cost $19.21 plus shipping, so I ordered the coil kit for total of $26.70. Note... I am a 71 year old amateur never having worked as a repairman of any kind except for my own needs.
The repair itself took less than 30 minutes start to finish and was one of the most straight forward, glitch free, easy repairs I have ever done. This is a gas dryer but still uses 110 power so I unplugged the 110 power cord from outlet. Followed suggested guidance on opening the dryer cabinet from the front and presto, the coil set I needed to replace was immediately right in front with easy access. Removed 2 screws for the hold-down bracket, slipped off both coils, one at a time, removing the wiring connection for each coil and then reconnecting to each new coil before slipping each new coil back into place and reattaching the hold down bracket. Reinstalled the dryer door and cabinet front in reverse order from taking off... 4 screws total. Plugged in the 110 power cord and put in a damp load of freshly washed laundry. Presto... 30 minutes later... dry laundry. Note... could do the same repair again in half the time since I took it slow and careful 1st time and also took time to remove dust before completing repair. I like things to look like new inside and out and it did when I was done. $26.70 and good as new. Why I didn't spend $160 - $275 is pretty obvious now.

Step 1: remove new latch from bag in which part comes. Step 2: push latch into hole where the other latch was. Step 3: enjoy having a dryer you dont have to hold closed with a folding chair.

Removed the top panel of the dryer via a couple of screws from the rear. Remove the rear panel swing it open light a door to the right, minding the electrical connections. Removed the belt from the pulley, removed the Tri-ring from the shaft and slid the pulley off of the shaft. The shaft was slightly rusted so I used a steel brush and brake cleaner to clean it up, placed the new gasket, pulley, and tri-ring on, replaced the belt, and put the panels back into place. As the dryer is about 7 years old, also removed the front lower panel and cleaned out unit which had quite a bit of accumulated dust and glitter especially in the vent lines. (3 girls live here). Pretty easy, most screws remove with just the one tool.

I first replaced the temperature sensor. That did not help and when doing investigation when thr drier was warm I found the vallve would open and close if I touched the coils

remove&replace

Repair itself was not hard, Pop top, unscrew front panel and pull forward to get at the coils under the drum. --THIS IS THE KEY POINT i ENCOUNTERED: I tested the coils and the resistance was right according to the schematic. But still the flame would go out after while. --on a whim I pulled the front cover and tested the coils immediately after the flam wouldn't re-light.---When the coil got warm, it would open (no continuity). When it cooled down again the correct continuity would return. Replaced the coil and no more problem

Open the top and replaced the switch bracket with the actuator lever then inserted new door catch.

Initially confused by instructions provided in that it stated to loosen a brass coupler. Disconnected power. Removed front bottom panel. Disconnected both leads to ingiter. Removed the 2 screws holding igniter bracket in place. Carefully slid igniter and bracket forward and removed from dryer. Removed screw holding ingiter and replaced with new. Reinstalled in reverse.

Removed two screws from front panel and lifted front panel away, Turned it to the left so I could keep the door switch connected. The dryer would heat when it was first started, but then the burner would go off and would not come back on. I ran the dryer with the front panel off and could see the igniter glow and light the burner, but after the burner cycled off, the igniter would come back on but the gas would not come back on. I could tell it wasn't the thermostat because the igniter would come on, so I knew it must be the gas valve, and therefore probably the coils. The instructions on the website said that the coils were frequently intermittent, so that seemed like the problem. I tried checking out the coil resistance with an ohmmeter to try to confirm that, but couldn't really tell anything that way. I ordered the replacement coils Tuesday night, selecting the cheapest shipping; they shipped on Wednesday, and were delivered on Thursday! Amazingly fast! Removed two screws from the clip that holds the coils in place, unplugged the old coils, swapped in the new coils, screwed the retaining clip back on. All done. Before I replaced the front panel, I watched to see that it operated correctly. I could see the burner cycle off, then after a bit, the igniter glowed, and then the gas came back on and lit, just like it should. Problem solved. Put the front panel back on, and that's all there was to it. Well, I did vacuum out some of the dust inside the cabinet while I had the cover off. Just out of curiosity, I checked the resistance of the new coils before I installed them to compare with the old ones. Couldn't see much difference.

follow Steve the repairman's instructions they were very good