Models > 11070996990 > Instructions

11070996990 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 11070996990 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 11070996990
1-15 of 496
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Door Catch part had fallen out,/ was missing

  • Customer: Terri from Saint Augustine, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 563 of 578 people found this instruction helpful
Received your parts, Popped them both right into place, Even though only one side needed to be replaced, I wanted them to match up. It was amazing how easy this was. My husband was quite impressed I had ordered these rather then look for either a new or used dryer from some other source.

Dryer ran but would not heat

  • Customer: Gary from Haverhill, NH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 270 of 306 people found this instruction helpful
PartSelect showed seven different possibilities why the dryer wouldn't heat. I removed the two screws to remove the bottom panel and turned the dryer on and noticed that the heating element that ignites the gas was working fine. This meant that it was not getting gas so it could be the gas valve or one of the two gas valve coils which are located on top of the gas valve. I borrowed my neighbor"s ohm meter and touched the two probes on the coils terminals to check for continuity and found that one of the coils read zero. I then took both of the coils out by removing two screws and tested each coil again. One coil read 500-850 and the other read zero. This meant that it was no good so I called for the part and received it in three days. I reassembled the parts and turned the dryer on and it fired up after a few seconds. It works as good as new. The part plus shipping was less than $30. My repairman would have charged me $150-$200. While the dryer was apart I gave it a good cleaning with a vacuum and a toothbrush in delicate areas. I also removed and cleaned the lint trap housing by removing two nuts. I didn't know much about gas dryers, but thanks to PartSelect I easily fixed it myself.

Door wouldn't latch.

  • Customer: Melody from North Las Vegas, NV
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 161 of 235 people found this instruction helpful
I can't believe I waited so long to find this part and do this. I got the package very fast, opened it, took the piece to my dryer and popped it into place with my fingers. It worked perfectly! this took all of two minutes and saved me from having to hold the dryer door closed with a stick. Thank you, thank you!!!

felt strip came off lint screen

  • Customer: JEFFREY from FALL RIVER, MA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 140 of 175 people found this instruction helpful
ordered new lint screen, removed old screen, inserted new screen.

Timer wasn't working (New Timer)

  • Customer: Joaquin from Las Vegas, NV
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 120 of 68 people found this instruction helpful
Timer wasn't working on the regular cycle so I replace it with a new one from partselect. It still wasn't working so I ordered and replace the cycling thermostat, the thermal fuse I also cleaned the vent and dryer it still didn't work so I read the diagram for the electrical and found that a coil for the gas valve is line with timer. I ordered the coils for the valves, replaced both valves and tested the dryer and it work just like when I first bought the appliance.

Dryer flame goes out after about 8-minutes from start and won’t work again until a 15-minute rest.

  • Customer: andy from Bethesda, MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 91 of 49 people found this instruction helpful
There was no problem with lint build-up within the dryer & the exhaust vent. I removed the gas cycling thermostat & thermal fuse from system & dryer still was not operating correctly. The radiant sensor & hi-limit thermostat both seemed to be operating correctly. That left either of the two coils as the culprits. I replaced both coils & the problem was corrected.

dryer door would not stay shut

  • Customer: Pam from Woodbridge, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 84 of 85 people found this instruction helpful
This repair was a cinch. Pliers to pull out the metal piece and a screwdriver to pry out the 'catch' part in the door. Both replacement pieces went right in. I cannot believe how easy and CHEAP this fix was, and I'm so glad I found this site!! I figured I would have to call a repairman and pay big bucks, so I put it off, but the door was getting worse--slamming it so hard to keep it shut. Again, thanks for this great site.

door switch actuator spring broken

  • Customer: Paul from Vero Beach, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 73 of 80 people found this instruction helpful
-unplugged appliance
-removed lint trap
-removed 2 lint trap shute screws with phillips screwdriver
-popped open top of appliance with standard screwdriver by applying pressure at each front corner so that it could be tilted up to access actuator switch on right side of door
-removed 2 actuator switch screws, located on upper right side of laundry door, with phillips screwdriver (screws are accessed from outside of door frame not through appliance top).
-discarded broken actuator spring (accessed from open appliance top)
-replaced new actuator spring
-replaced 2 actuator switch screws
-closed top
-replaced 2 lint trap shute screws
-replaced lint trap
-plugged in appliance
-tested for operation
-kissed by happy wife

Extended drying time. Some but not enough heat. Burner would light for 15-18 seconds at first then shut off for 1-3 minutes then light for 3-6 seconds and repeat for the length of the cycle.

  • Customer: Matthew from Lake Worth, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 73 of 41 people found this instruction helpful
Determining the problem was the hardest part. With multiple parts (coils,thermostats...)possibly causing similar symptoms, I narrowed it down to the two coil valves.
Un plug the dryer. Remove two screws at the base of the front panel. Turn the front panel 180 degrees to avoid disconnecting the door switch. Gas valve with coils on top are on the right in front. Remove two screws in bracket holding coils, disconnect the wires, replace with new coils and reconnect wires. One coil has 2 terminals the other has 3 no chance of crossing the wires. I used an offset/right angle screw driver for one of the bracket screws due to close proximity to the drum. A stubby phillips head will work. You can check the burner operation with the front panel off as long as the door switch is still attached. Swing the front panel around and lift back into place securing with the two screws. Dryer works fine now.

Dryer would only heat cycle once

  • Customer: Robert from Seattle, WA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 67 of 74 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the two screws holding the front panel to expose the lower works and verified the heating cycle failure. After a check of the vent system, checking the sensors for continuity and coils for resistance, I retired to the 'net for support. Accepting the general consensus that the most frequent, common and likely failure to be the coils, I rechecked them with the meter and found the two pronged coil to have significantly more resistance than the three prong coil. That was enough evidence to point to the coils. While I waited for the part to arrive, I replace the vent ducting. When the parts arrived I removed the two Phillips screws holding the coils, removed the old ones, installed the new ones, replaced the bracket, put the front cover back on and in less then ten minutes clothes where drying.

door kept coming open dryer shuts off

  • Customer: RONALD from SALMON, ID
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 85 of 149 people found this instruction helpful
use screwdriver topry plastic out plyers to pull out metal latch put new parts in

The dryer heated up for a few minutes and then cooled down.

  • Customer: James from Limington, ME
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 56 of 62 people found this instruction helpful
1 Unplug power.
2. Remove the front of the unit by removing the two screws at the bottom of the front panel. Front dryer panel will swing out from the bottom and then the clips will release the top of the panel, careful not to disconnect the dryer door switch. ( can be unplugged to remove the front panel out of the way.)
3. Looking inside the unit on the right side you will see the gas value. On top of the gas unit you will see two small coils the coil closest to the burner has two leads on it. Remove the two screws to get to the coils, remove the medal plate, remove the connector then lift off the secondary coil. Replace and test. You can test unit with the front panel off. (be careful). If no heat, check that the Flat Style igniter is glowing. (ohm out both coils) before ordering parts. Intermittent heat problems. I replaced the secondary coil, it did ohm out o:k but it had swollen and was very tight on the shaft.

dryer wouldn't dry

  • Customer: JEFFERY from ABINGDON, VA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 90 of 164 people found this instruction helpful
un pluged it then removed the hose took the back off took out the 2 screws out of each part replace it with the new parts , then pluged it back to make sure it would work and it did the very first time. i'm 1 happy roper owner.

Door won't latch

  • Customer: Jill from bellevue, WA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 78 of 136 people found this instruction helpful
I did NOT have to repair the latch on the actual door, just the small metal piece that it hooks on (on the dryer itself) and it took about 10 seconds to.....do it myself. Just used needle nose pliers so squeeze the piece together and fit it in. thanks

Dryer would run without pushing the Start Button

  • Customer: Donald from Kanona, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 46 of 53 people found this instruction helpful
Turn off the circuit breaker ( Or remove the Fuse/s )to the dryer,

Removed 2 screws that hold the control cluster to the dryer top. Then I slid the control cluster forward and up to release it from the dryer. then I removed the start button knob to the start switch by pulling on it straight out. Next I removed the six 1/4" hex head screws from back of the removed control cluster. Then using a flat bladed screwdriver I pried up the tab coming off the switch housing. just enought to allow the switch to be turned a quarter of a turn counter clockwise which allows the switch to be removed from the back of the control cluster. Next with a pair of long nose pliers gently pull straight up on the 2 wire terminals attaching wires to the switch. Make a diagram before removing them so that they can be put on the new switch in the same way. Then orient the new switch with its tab located a quarter turn counter clockwise from the hole you pried the old switch tab from. push down on the switch while turning it clockwise 1/4 turn so the tab on the switch drops into it's locking hole. Then using your diagram put the wire terminals back on the switch terminals in the same order and position they came off. Replace the Control panel with the screws you removed. Next position the control panel feet over the holes for them in the top of the dryer and push back a little on the panel to lock it in the correct position. Then take the two longer screws and put one on each side of the panel at the correct angle (not straight up and down) but tilted forward to match the holes and carefully tighten the screws. Next carefully replace the push to start knob on the new switch. Turn the Circuit Breaker (or reinstall the Fuse/s) for the Dryer back on. Then test and make sure that when you select the cycle and the door is closed that pushing the start switch causes the dryer to start. You have done it!
All Instructions for the 11070996990
1-15 of 496