11070956990 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All went very easily

unscrewed the 2 screws holding the coil's in place took wires off one coil at a time tested coils with ohm meter found the two wire coil was bad replaced and scered the bracket that holds the coils back in place.PartSelect gave me a list of what was causing the problem and what the % of what was the cause,this helped alot Thankyou PartSelect

I'm a 65-year-old woman with no prior appliance repair experience. I learned on the web that 30% of the time, the failure-to-heat problem is caused by the valve coil, and 30% of the time, it's the cycling thermostat. So I ordered both parts. I watched installation videos on the web. The valve coil was accessable through a front port on the dryer so I started there. I had to go buy a stubby screwdriver because access to the screws was limited. From there, it was easy to take out the old valve coil and install the new one. Just 5 minutes. I plugged in the dryer again, turned it on, and it worked.

Took screwdriver popped out old latch in cabnet. Took pliers popped out latch out of door. Snaped new latch parts back in.

I replaced the Thermal Fuse and Cycling Thermostat first, since they were listed as fixing the problem 45% of the time and 19% of the time, but the dryer still didn't heat. I then ordered and replaced the gas valve solenoids, which solved the problem (but I ended up breaking the dryer belt while re-installing the drum, so that had to be replaced too.) In hindsight, I wish I would have ordered all four parts up front and saved a bit on shipping. Installation was easy, especially with the diagrams that showed where each part would be found.

First I opened the front of my dryer panel to see when the dryer was on if there was any gas flowing. I found that the ignitor was glowing , but no gas was releasing from the valve. So I figured that that is the root of the problem. I changed the old gas valves and replaced them with the new ones. It worked!! The whole process didn't take more than 30 minutes.

After trying to follow a very detailed description by another consumer, we googled our washer and found a site that showed step by step direction that took us through removing all panels and getting to the bellow easily. Not removing the proper panels, we found was making the job hard!I believe the site was applicance services...very helpful! Step by step literally!!Cost of parts through parts select reasonable.

The dryer had heat and would run when start button depressed but would stop immediately when you let go. I decided after researching problem it was probably the relay switch. I watched youtube videos on how to access the switch. I used a putty knife to get the endcaps off, a phillips screwdriver, and pliers to pull the wires out of the relay. (after shutting off gas & unplugging the power of course) I am NOT mechanically inclined and this took me less than 15minutes. I did not do expedited shipping and received the part in less than 48hrs. Could not have been easier and works perfectly!

This did not require a "repair", just a replacement. I want to say that the response time and ease of ordering were very good. I would not hesitate to use PartSelect again when needed. Thank you!

pulled out old lint filter. Put in new lint filter.

Repair was very easy simply used a screwdriver to remove the cracked old latch and used my fingers to insert my new latch.

I did continuity tests on the on/off push switch and the thermostats - all were good. After some research I discovered the thermal switch which is somewhat hidden on top of the blower. Sure enough, it failed the continuity test. The two sheet metal screws are difficult to loosen from the access door at the bottom of the dryer. You can test the fuse from that location but it's more difficult to replace it without taking the entire dryer apart, which is what I ultimately did. Once the drum is out the fuse is very accessible. However, if you need to make this repair, try replacing the fuse from the lower panel (and avoid the time/effort in removing the drum). You might be able to use a 1/4" open-end wrench (or pliers) to loosen the sheet metal screws. I only had a standard ratchet set which is too big to fit into that tight space. Either way, it's not a complicated repair...watch the installation video - it's not exact but it's close enough to guide you through this.

At first I thought the sensor in the drum part was bad. It had some residue from something on it and looked a bit beat up. Replaced it for 30$ and had the same problem. Note: I decided to take the console panel off because I though it was necessary to get to everywhere else and I found a folded up "repairman trouble shooting guide" in the console. Don't know if this is a common place to put it but it had all the wiring and problems detailed with this dryer. It had step-by-step assessment procedures for any problem. However, I punched the sequence for the "brains" to give me a problem code and it indicated that I needed a new "user interface," a 285$ part. I must have punched it wrong because I started to read other problem descriptions and I realized, based on others, that the most likely cause was the coils that regulate the gas/heat valve. I used the "problem guide" to measure the resistance of the coils (it gives you the proper range for each) and one was outside of what it should have been so I purchased a new set of coils for $20 plus shipping. It took me 2 tries at installing the coils because the cover plate that seats the coils in place was not aligned properly the first time. This cause them to vibrate and rattle when starting up. The coils were a little different in height so I readjusted the cover bracket and seated the coils properly. No rattle and the dryer worked perfectly.

Need a short handled phillips screwdriver. Unplug dryer from socket. Remove two screws near the bottom of the front panel. Swing the panel to one side so electrical wire doesn't need disconnection. Remove two screws holding bracket over the two coils. Unplug both coils. Plug in new coils. Replace bracket. Replace front panel. Plug machine back into electrical socket. Problem solved.

The dryer was spinning, but the display said "sensing" for the whole cycle, and there was no heat. We took off the front of the dryer and the fuse was below the drum. This was an easy swap out, but it didn't fix the dryer. Then we ordered a thermistor, which also was an easy swap out but didn't fix the dryer. Last, we bought an ohm meter and tested the heating element, and discovered it did not have continuity. I had already ordered the heating element, as that was the next item to check on the list. The element was much harder to replace, because you have to take off the drum.