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11068822700 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 11068822700 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 11068822700
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Dryer was working, but no heat.

  • Customer: ANTHONY from CHESHIRE CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 806 of 937 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.

dryer would not turn off with door open

  • Customer: RICHARD from NORCROSS GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 383 of 385 people found this instruction helpful
pryed dryer top open and opened front door.. unscrewed the 2 retaining screws. pulled old switch from the wiring harness.
put new switch in place and replaced the retaining screws.
put new switch wire plug into the wiring harness. before closing top, checked door switch function with dryer on.
dryer cut off when door open and when closed dryer started
normally... maint. note instruction book should warn that letting door slam, which i did on occaision, broke the switch
arm. might save future problems.

Dryer wouldn't turn on b/c door switch broken

  • Customer: April from Xenia OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 280 of 350 people found this instruction helpful
It was simple once I figured out what to do:). I removed the 2 screws on the top of the dryer... they were a bit hard to find. Even with the other descriptions on this site. I was removing things I didn't need to. The 2 screws you need to remove are under the LINT COLLECTOR LID. Remove those 2 screws & lift the lid... it will be tight at first. the front of the lid has 2 "catches" in the corners.

The hardest part was getting the door switch assembly to "unplug". We pried it off -- eventually -- & then simply plugged in the new one.

Saved me LOTS of money & was worth the 30 minutes - 1 hour of work.

As I said previously, once you realize how to get the lid up & manage to pry off the plug, that's all there is to it -- easy!

Save yourself time & money & do it yourself!

Burned out heater element

  • Customer: Alan from Brooksville FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 186 of 205 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the kick plate from the bottom of the dryer by sliding a putty knife along the top edge to release the plastic clamps, one on each side about 4" in from the edges. The kick plate folds out and down. You will see the heat shield on the right, held in by one hex head screw. Remove screw and heat shield. The element is positioned in an open-front housing and is fastened to the left side of the housing by two hex head screws, located on the "rail" of the element and right near the two wires. Remove the hex-head screws that hold the element in place and disconnected the two wires by pulling them out by hand or with needle nose pliers. The only difficulty here is the cramped working area...I recommend a stubby socket driver for these two screws. Most of this I had to do by feel because I could not see the screw heads. Once the screws are out and the wires have been disconnected, slide the old element straight out toward you. You may need to disconnect a small plastic hose located to the left front of the element, but this hose just pulls right off. Vacume the dust & lint build-up out of the whole area, wipe out the element housing and clean up the whole underside of the dryer prior to installing the new element. Installation is reverse of removal. It also might be a good opportunity to clean out your exhaust duct and the vent to the outside. (Never use the aluminum foil-accordian-type duct.) If the exterior dryer vent has any kind of screen over it, remove it and get rid of it. Screens collect lint, lint builds up and burns out elements.

Door wouldn't latch.

  • Customer: Melody from North Las Vegas NV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 145 of 215 people found this instruction helpful
I can't believe I waited so long to find this part and do this. I got the package very fast, opened it, took the piece to my dryer and popped it into place with my fingers. It worked perfectly! this took all of two minutes and saved me from having to hold the dryer door closed with a stick. Thank you, thank you!!!

Dryer not heating

  • Customer: Wesley from Boyds MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 107 of 124 people found this instruction helpful
Our dryer is 8 years old and had been slowly taking longer and longer to dry clothes, to the point that I was ready to purchase a new one. When the dryer stopped heating completely, I removed the bottom panel and found that the heating element was no longer working. I checked online and found this website. The top two recommended fixes for this issue was to replace the heating element and/or thermal cut-off kit (two sensors). I chose to purchase both, delivered to me very quickly (two days). I figured for $80 you can't go wrong. Here's the procedure I followed:

On my particular model, the back does NOT come off and all of my repairs had to be made via the front, bottom panel.

(1) disconnected 6 wires (3 pairs) from the heating element and two thermal sensors
(2) removed entire heating element 'sleeve" which contained both the heating element AND the two sensors. The space is way too tight to try and do this any other way (and I highly recommend this method to save a ton of time and frustration.)
(3) vaccummed out the entire inside of the dryer, clearing all lint and debris, including tons of lint creating a blockage, thus slowing the ability to dry over the years
(4) replaced sensors and heating element
(5) installed heating element & Thermal sensors back inside and reconnected all wires
(6) tested dryer to ensure that heating element lit up and produced heat - it worked beautifully!

Besides fixing the heating issue, cleaning out the clogged lint pipe at the back of the dryer and wall have made the old dryer new again. It's working better than ever!

Dryer overheated, blew out thermal fuse

  • Customer: Steven from East Norriton PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 87 of 101 people found this instruction helpful
I started to repair this and got busy and ended up calling a repair service -- that was the first time. They repaired it for over $200 and said the cause was bad venting. I fixed the vent before using the fixed dryer but it blew again. So I ordered these parts and replaced them myself for a lot of savings. However, the dryer still overheated. Through lots of testing I found the root cause the repairman missed: The heating element had gotten so hot that the assembly holding it warped, hitting the element and shorting it. So a new element is on order. I still needed the parts I ordered here but the overall repair ended up more complicated and expensive. I was disappointed a paid repair person left without further diagnosis. If he had unplugged the vent and checked the heat on the exhaust vent (as I ended up doing) it would have been obvious more than a new thermal fuse/thermistor was necessary. Instead I wasted over $200 on his visit. So my advice is if you're at all handy, repair this yourself. The dryer has a service manual inside the front toe board that walks you through most diagnostics and tests. However, it took a little more than that for me to discover the heating element problem. This was a very dangerous situation that could have easily led to a fire, yet not found by a trained technician!

When I opened my dryer door while it was running, the drum continued to turn and the light would not come on.

  • Customer: Baxter from Goodlettsville TN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 102 of 163 people found this instruction helpful
First unplug your dryer. Then, I removed the two screws on the lint trap leaving the lint trap in place--do not pull out the lint trap--only remove the two screws. Next, slide the top of the dryer slightly forward in order to release the top of the dryer. I did this with my hands. Once the top of the dryer is released, raise the top of the dryer and unplug the door switch assembly. Then, remove the two screws that hold the switch. These two screws were located on the front panel of my dryer and are visible when you open the dryer door. Remove the old switch and install the new switch by putting the two screws you previously took out from the old switch back in place and plug in the new switch. Lower the dryer top. Push the top back to lock in place. Line up the lint trap holes for the two screws that hold it in place and replace those screws. Plug your dryer back in and it should work properly. Very easy repair. We ordered our part one morning before noon, and it was here the next afternoon with regular shipping. GREAT SERVICE.

dryer door would not stay shut

  • Customer: Pam from Woodbridge VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 69 of 69 people found this instruction helpful
This repair was a cinch. Pliers to pull out the metal piece and a screwdriver to pry out the 'catch' part in the door. Both replacement pieces went right in. I cannot believe how easy and CHEAP this fix was, and I'm so glad I found this site!! I figured I would have to call a repairman and pay big bucks, so I put it off, but the door was getting worse--slamming it so hard to keep it shut. Again, thanks for this great site.

Door switch did absolutely nothing....dryer kept running

  • Customer: Clark from Melbourne FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 81 of 144 people found this instruction helpful
I read a fix-it article from another contributor and followed those instructions to the T. Pull out lint trap, remove the two screws. Slide the top cover towards the front and prop it up with a mop handle.
Unscrew two screws in the door switch (with the door open) - Oh, to keep from killing yourself unplug the dryer just in case. Take pliers and pull the plug apart. It will be right in front of you in the right corner at the top. Plug new switch into that plug, reinstall the switch by reinstalling the two screws you removed. Snap top back into place and reinstall the two screws at the lint trap. Oh, don't forget to clean the trap and slide it back into the unit. Now you have earned that beer.
Put tools away and proudly show your job off to the wife telling her how difficult it was.

Broken Switch Assembly

  • Customer: Michael from Dearborn MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 77 of 138 people found this instruction helpful
This was my first dryer repair, and it was so easy. Simply pull out the lint trap and unscrew the two screws that are exposed. They attach the top deck of the dryer to the drum.

Once it's unscrewed, pull forward while lifting the top of the dryer. The top is attached to the control assembly. They should both lift up, but you'll need something to prop it up like you would the hood of your car.

Next, use the pliers to pinch the connector so that you can separate the two parts of the connector.

Open the dryer door to gain access to the screws that hold the switch in place. Use your screwdriver to unscrew the switch.

Plug the new switch connector in, and close up the dryer.

Word of caution; there are sharp edges inside the dryer so be careful.

door kept coming open dryer shuts off

  • Customer: RONALD from SALMON ID
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 78 of 141 people found this instruction helpful
use screwdriver topry plastic out plyers to pull out metal latch put new parts in

Door won't latch

  • Customer: Jill from bellevue WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 74 of 131 people found this instruction helpful
I did NOT have to repair the latch on the actual door, just the small metal piece that it hooks on (on the dryer itself) and it took about 10 seconds it myself. Just used needle nose pliers so squeeze the piece together and fit it in. thanks

Broke start switch while moving

  • Customer: Dennis from Port Orchard WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 34 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off the power.Pulled the dryer out, removed the screws from the control cover panel, unplugged the switch, pressed the release clip the did the opposite to install new switch. Replaced the back panel, put the nob on and it looks as good as new.Turned on the power.

Drum of the dryer was rotating but no heating

  • Customer: Tomasz from University Heights OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 31 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the back cover (several screws). Then, I disconected wires from the high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off fuse (both of these parts were included in the Thermal Cut-Off Kit). Then, I removed four screws that hold these two parts, replaced the parts, put the screws back, and attached the wires. Finally, I put back the cover.
All Instructions for the 11068822700
1-15 of 706