11068332700 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I lifted the top of the dryer. I unhooked the hangers from the door and took it off. I pulled the drum out, took the broken belt off, slid the new one around the outside middle of the drum, turning the rib side of the belt out,and ran the belt through the pulley attached to the bottom base of the dryer (tension pulley, right hand side), slid the drum back inside the dryer frame, reattached the door, closed and snapped the dryer lid and it worked great!!

Had to order idler lever and wheel as the one in the kit would not work. Best to buy part specific for your dryer. Repair was easy, just watch repair video. Sounds like new dryer again

took off the back part with nut driver removed switch assembly by pressing down with a little pressure and it snapped out the new was a little different but worked on installing this was an easy assembly. just do things in reverse when finished just plug in electric and push switch to turn on. very easy to install.

Your customer service was great, but your video wasn't particularly helpful because of the extreme age of my dryer. For one thing, with these really old dryers, you don't have to slide the drum out at all; you just unscrew the front panel and slip the belt in that way. The printed diagram that came with the belt helped me figure how the belt slips through the pulley assembly, but the drawing could have been more clear. In spite of my bickering, I probably saved $50 fixing it myself.

Disconnect electric power, the top & cabinet are connected by 2 reusable locks about 4 inches from each front corner, use a thin flat putty knife or similar object, push inward on a lock while lifting gently on the front of the top piece, then let the top rest against the wall. ( a wire on each end of a safety switch for the dryer door may need disconnected) Remove a screw from each front corner of the cabinet, then pull upward on the loose front panel to access the drive motor, remove old belt. install new belt by lifting the front of the drum just high enough to allow the new belt, place groves of belt against the drum and around the motor pulley and belt tensioner, re-install cabinet front, (re-connect safety switch wires) return top and push down at cabinet locks.

I watched the video on PartSelect for this model. It was very easy to follow. The thermostat was mounted on a terminal lug which needed a little prying but not bad. Saved a least $140.

I took one piece off at a Time. Made sure that each wire went to the correct place. I felt so good as a woman to be able to fix a necessity in our House without having to call a repairman to fix it for us. We are 3 women in our New Home. Im 46 My life partner is 48 and Our Daughter 17. I can't tell you how thankful i am for watching your video on how to do it. Thanks Part select. Dena , Ave & Fe .

I checked the thermal fuse for continuity and had none.ordered part arrived next day. I took a picture with phone to idenify wires. installed in a short time.dryer works like new

I'm almost 72 years young,but I replaced the heating Element and with your vedio it was so simple.I did it with no problem.Thank You and I'm proud of myself too.I saved a lot of money.Evelyn

Before calling a repairman, I researched the problem at partselect.com. I am so glad that I did. It saved be a lot of money. I was able to narrow down the cause of "No Heat", and ordered a new Heating Element for the dryer thru partselect.com. The part arrived very quickly, and I was able to install the new part by first watching the installation videos at partselect.com. This could not have gone smoother, and I could not be happier. And, "no", I do not work for partselect.com. :)

repair went just as describe in video.

I watched the videos associated with the parts. They were easy to understand and I could follow the steps without difficulty. I replaced both the cycling thermostat and thermal fuse. Separately, I also replaced the "push-to-start" switch. Dryer would still not start. I called the repairman. Problem turned out to be a loose wire that had shorted out in the electrical bar near the "push-to-start" switch. All parts I replaced are determined to be good and will be tried next time I experience the dryer "not starting".

Unpluged dryer first! Diconnected the vent hose.Took out 9 screws out of back panel.1 screw for the thermal fuse disconnected the two wires. Put new one in connected the wires. Then took out 1 screw that held the thermostat in place took 4 wires off. Put new one in reconnected the wires. Vacuumed out the back. Put back panel on. Connected the vent hose, plugged the dryer in. Pushed the start button & started drying clothes. Very easy!

It was really easy I watched your video on how to do it the video went step by step and was very helpful

PROBLEM: Intermittently, the dryer would not advance on the Auto Dry setting and would stay at max heat continuously, even after 2.5 hours with the clothes dry and very warm. At first, I replaced the CYCLING THERMOSTAT, which DID NOT correct this issue. Then I also found the 60 Minute Timed dry setting would work fine until the end of the cycle and the dryer would stop like it should. Then, I checked back 10-15 minutes later and found the timer had advanced into Fluff Dry Timed cycle with heater on full, but the dryer not moving air. This caused the Thermo-Cut switch (fuse) off to open and the Heater Element would not put out enough heat to dry the clothes. TROUBLESHOOTING: 1- UNPLUG the dryer for all troubleshooting and set the DVM for OHMS ( or use ohm-meter). 2- Both the Cycling Thermostat and High Limit Thermostat checked good at 0 ohms (dryer unplugged). The entire Thermo Cut-off/Thermostat circuit can be checked at the Timer (VERIFY proper wire color with dryer schematic in top console), which also verifies the wires are good and should be 0 ohms without the Heater Element in the circuit. For the Whirlpool WED5300SQ0 dryer, it's the Red and Orange wires at the Timer. 3- If the Heater Element is in the circuit (see schematic for test points), look for between 8-12 ohms for a good Heater Element. For the Whirlpool WED5300SQ0 dryer, it's the Red and White/Black wires at the Timer or across the Heater Element connection. SOLUTION: The Heater Element checked out good at 10 ohms. When the Heater Element was physically removed from the dryer one of the PORCELAIN MOUNTS was BUSTED, which caused the heater element coil to intermittently come in contact with the dryer housing while running/drying clothes, which caused the Timer to not advance on Auto Dry when the Cycling Thermostat Opened and malfunction for the Timed Dry settings. To physically check the Heater Element, just remove the 2 screws and the wires to the High Limit Thermostat can stay hooked up. The Thermo-Cut off kit is easy to install and there is a installation video if there are questions. Just be careful to NOT cut the Heater Element connector on the Jumper wire kit. The spade connector for the heater element is wider than the other side that is cut off for the dual spade connector. The Heater Element is easy to replace as well. If the Thermo-Cutoff Kit is being installed, the new High Limit Thermostat can be mounted to the new Heater Element before it is mounted to the dryer housing, which makes it easier to screw in the self-tapping screws. After this repair was completed, dryer has functioned perfectly after many loads of clothes using all dryer settings.