11068092700 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Unplugged dryer, removed bottom front panel, removed fan cover. I used a 1/4 ratchet to remove 2 screws and the old fuse. Installed new fuse, fan cover, and front panel. Dryer works great!

The repair cost us less than $9.00 and about 1 minute to repair. You can only imagine how much a tech would have charged us!! We are so very happy that we discovered this site . The instruction video they offered, the customer service via their website AND quick delivery of the part, has insured them that we will be repeat customers. Thanks so much !!!!! Bravo! Annie & Peter in , Nevada

I googled the problem and determined that the thermistor was faulty. I found your web site from which I ordered the replacement part. The part arrived within a week. The replacement was not particularly difficult, but the space was very tight (without removing more panels and covers). I just kept at it and got it installed and the dryer works fine now. There are several pertinent videos on you tube, none of which were my particular model, but the combination of them led me to a successful installation.

I placed the putty knife on the top part of the door catch and when that came loose I placed the putty knife on the bottom of the door catch and pushed on the putty knife and the door catch came out of its place. I then just popped the new door catch in place. Total repair time 45 seconds. The door now closes.

Took a screwdriver and bent wings out a little and then was able to get hold of it with a pair of pliers. Then just put the new unit in the opening and tapped it in. If I had a good pair of needle pliers, it would not have been necessary for the screwdriver.

I looked up the problem on Utube and saw a demo on what three items to check with a volt meter for continuity or resistence on either the start button, the door switch, or the thermal fuse. The first two checked out OK but the fuse was dead, no resistance or ohmns on the voltmeter. I had trouble locating it on my dryer as the Utube site said to pull the rear cabinet off when actually it was under the front panel below the dryer door sitting in an awkward position right on top of the dryer motor. I used 2 flat head screwdrivers to pry open the latches over the panel door that are located about 4 inches in from either end and then used a small right angle screwdriver with a flash light propped against the heating elements (after I removed the cover plate) to see with and to give me more room to loosen just two tiny screws that attached the fuse to the motor. Voila! It works better than before.

I tried to remove the part with pliers but could not remove it so I removed the screws that hold the front part of the door. I took the front part off, removed the broken plastic and then lifted on side of the catch so that the bottom of the front part came thru the door and then was able to remove the door latch. The installation of the new part took about 15 seconds to put in by pushing it into the opening where the broken part was removed. I put the front part of the door back and put the screws back and the dryer works fine.

Used a screwdriver to pry out the bottom of the latch then the top. Pulled old latch out, then snapped new one in. Super Simple fix.

Push in new catch...close door.

Removed the old screen and simply put in the new one

Remove top,front and panels.change thermal fuse and outlet thermistor.

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

Drum belt broke. Found drive shaft belt guide broke. Replaced pulley wheel since I had it apart.

Remove top, remove two front panels, remove rear panel to access drive motor release tensioner. Remove drum to access to heating element enclosure. Replace and reinstall after vacuuming all accumulated lent.

Confirmed I had incoming 240V, checked continuity on element switch confirmed bad. Ordered replacement part. U have to remove drum to replace element