Models > 1106808501 > Instructions

1106808501 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 1106808501 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 1106808501
1-15 of 391
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Door Catch part had fallen out,/ was missing

  • Customer: Terri from Saint Augustine FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 484 of 487 people found this instruction helpful
Received your parts, Popped them both right into place, Even though only one side needed to be replaced, I wanted them to match up. It was amazing how easy this was. My husband was quite impressed I had ordered these rather then look for either a new or used dryer from some other source.

Dryer quit heating. Suspected heating element was open

  • Customer: Bill from Morristown TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 145 of 163 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the 220 volt source. Disconnected the vent line from the back of the drier. Removed the six screws holding the back panel with a 1/4 inch nut driver. Tipped the drier up at a 45 degree angle against the wall to give better access to the inside. Removed the screws holding the two thermostats to the side of the heater box and laid them aside. Disconnected the two red power lines to the heater element. Removed the large screw at the top of the heater box and removed the flexible bracket holding the heater box, then lifted the heater box up and away from the drier. Removed the one screw holding the heater element inside the heater box and pulled out the old heating element. The old element was open as found using an ohmeter on the two main terminals. Threw away the old element. Removed the new heating element from the box and slid it into the heater box making sure to align the terminal bracket with the hole in the heater box for the reinstallation of the mounting screw. Tightened this screw. Remounted the heater box to the two mounting slots and reinstalled the flexible mounting bracket to the top of the heater box and installed and tightened the large screw holding this bracket. Cut off and removed the old electrical push-on terminals from the two red power wires for the heater element. These were discolored and oxidated from the conducted heat over the years of operation. Using the supplied short red leads with push-on terminals already installed, I wire tied these new leads to the existing red power leads and pushed them onto the heater element terminals. Rechecked the soundness of the twisted wire connections to make sure they were tight. Replaced the back panel and reinstalled the six 1/4" screws with the 1/4' nut driever. Reinstalled the driver vent line and tightened its holding ring. Slid the drier back into position on the floor. Checked the level and readjusted the leveling legs for a steady floor stance. Reinstalled the 220 volt power connecter and set the controlls for a drying cycle. Let the drier run for aproximately 1 minute and then checked the air temperature inside the drier. IT WAS NOW PRODUCING HOT AIR. Project completed successfully and I was now a HERO in my wifes eyes. Absolutely no technical problems encountered. Just remember, unplug the drier before starting ANY repairs. To forget this COULD RUIN YOUR DAY.

Door wouldn't latch.

  • Customer: Melody from North Las Vegas NV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 148 of 219 people found this instruction helpful
I can't believe I waited so long to find this part and do this. I got the package very fast, opened it, took the piece to my dryer and popped it into place with my fingers. It worked perfectly! this took all of two minutes and saved me from having to hold the dryer door closed with a stick. Thank you, thank you!!!

dryer door would not stay shut

  • Customer: Pam from Woodbridge VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 73 of 73 people found this instruction helpful
This repair was a cinch. Pliers to pull out the metal piece and a screwdriver to pry out the 'catch' part in the door. Both replacement pieces went right in. I cannot believe how easy and CHEAP this fix was, and I'm so glad I found this site!! I figured I would have to call a repairman and pay big bucks, so I put it off, but the door was getting worse--slamming it so hard to keep it shut. Again, thanks for this great site.

Make humming noise when pressing start button. Would not start

  • Customer: James from Moscow IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 69 of 75 people found this instruction helpful
After looking on the website for advice I walked throught the simple steps of disassembling the front, removing the drum, removed the back, disconnected the wire harness. Then removed the blower housing in the back. The blower, mounted on the back side of the motor was very tight. I used a pipe wrench wedged in place and help by my 10 year old Grand-daughter while I used an adjustable wrench to turn the shaft on the front of the motor. Spun the blower off, removed the two clips holding the motor. Then reversed the process when I received the new motor. Care should be taken to avoid damaging the blower fan if a lot of pressure is required.

Dryer was not heating

  • Customer: Frank from Fort Collins CO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 56 of 61 people found this instruction helpful
This is the second heating element I have replaced in this dryer which I bought new in 1977. That's right it is 32 years old and still works great!

The replacement process is simple:
One: pull the dryer away from the wall so that you have room to work in the back.
Two: Disconnect the dryer vent hose from the back of the dryer.
Three: Remove the five - 5/16" hex head sheet metal screws that hold the back cover in place and set the cover to the side.
Four: Go to the front of the dryer and remove the lint filter and the two slot head screws that hold the lint filter opening to the internal frame.
Five: Pop the top of the dryer open and remove the one 5/16" hex head screw that holds the top of the heating element strap to the frame.
Six: Go to the back of the dryer and remove the two leads from the thermostat that is mounted to the heating element casing. CAUTION: Be careful to note the position of the wires and be certain that you reattach the correct wire to the correct lead.
Seven: Lift the heating element case up about 1/2" to disengage the hooks at the bottom that hold it in place.Then pull the bottom of the heating toward you slightly while sliding it down. This will allow you to remove the heating element and casing.
Eight: Remove the heating element from the casing and insert the replacement heating element.

Reverse the above process to reassemble.
This entire process only takes about 20 minutes.

An additional note: Be certain that you pay careful attention to the positioning of the strap that holds the top of the heating element case to the dryer frame. If you install it incorrectly, the heating element case can fall away from the back of the drum assembly.

door switch actuator spring broken

  • Customer: Paul from Vero Beach FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 54 of 60 people found this instruction helpful
-unplugged appliance
-removed lint trap
-removed 2 lint trap shute screws with phillips screwdriver
-popped open top of appliance with standard screwdriver by applying pressure at each front corner so that it could be tilted up to access actuator switch on right side of door
-removed 2 actuator switch screws, located on upper right side of laundry door, with phillips screwdriver (screws are accessed from outside of door frame not through appliance top).
-discarded broken actuator spring (accessed from open appliance top)
-replaced new actuator spring
-replaced 2 actuator switch screws
-closed top
-replaced 2 lint trap shute screws
-replaced lint trap
-plugged in appliance
-tested for operation
-kissed by happy wife

door kept coming open dryer shuts off

  • Customer: RONALD from SALMON ID
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 80 of 143 people found this instruction helpful
use screwdriver topry plastic out plyers to pull out metal latch put new parts in

Door won't latch

  • Customer: Jill from bellevue WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 75 of 133 people found this instruction helpful
I did NOT have to repair the latch on the actual door, just the small metal piece that it hooks on (on the dryer itself) and it took about 10 seconds to.....do it myself. Just used needle nose pliers so squeeze the piece together and fit it in. thanks

Bought motor, then bought blower wheel also

  • Customer: Daniel from Coatesville PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 37 of 48 people found this instruction helpful
couldn't get blower wheel off of the motor. really tight. rounded off the wheel's square hub while trying to hold it still as I turned the motor shaft out. No, I wasn't turning it the wrong way :) I ended up going to the back of the dryer and using the multimax to quickly cut the wheel away from the hub. I love that oscillating saw! Just for fun, I put the motor in a bench vise and got the wheel hub off (in pieces). VERY tight! Ordered new wheel, and the job was smooth sailing from there on. I am guessing that experienced repair people automatically order the motor and blower wheel at the same time(?) BTW both parts were perfect matches for the originals. Not surprised; this has always been my experience with partselect.com!

Replacing worn drum support rollers and shafts.

  • Customer: Gary from Canton CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 32 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
Very easy once I figured out how to open it up to see what was the matter.
1 Remove power.
2 Open the lint filter cover and remove the 2 Phillip screws.
3 Pry the front of the top cover up to separate the cover from the plastic clips that secure to the top front panel.
4 Remove the 2 nut screws securing the top of the front panel to each side cover.
5 Pull front panel out slightly to detach wiring from the cover switch.
6 Pull front panel straight up and set aside.
7 Remove drum belt from tensioner and motor pulley under the drum.
8 Remove drum by pulling it toward the front between the 2 sides.
9 Locate the 2 support rollers and their mounting shafts. Change the shafts at this point if they are worn. (Mine were OK)
10 Remove the support bracket from the shaft if present.
11 Remove the plastic triangular retainer from the shaft and slide the old wheel off of the shaft.
12 Clean the shaft from any bearing debris.
13 Replace the rollers and retainers.
14 Insert drum through the front side panels making sure the seal on the rear of the drum is centered around the opening and not folded inside the opening.
15 Place the belt on the drum and thread the belt through the tensioner and around the motor pulley.
16 Position the front cover on the lower clips on each of the sides.
17 Re-attach the 2 wires for the cover switch.
18 Pull the drum up so the opening on the drum and front cover align.
19 Screw together the side panels to the front panel using the 2 hex headed screws.
20 Check for binds by rotating the drum several times by hand.
21 Press the front of the top panel down toward the front panel to engage the plastic clips attaching the top to the front. Watch for the lint filter housing alignment as you push the top panel down.
22 Replace the 2 screws to attach the lint filter to the top cover.
23 Plug in machine and test.

Good luck, It s not as bad as it sounds.

Needed new Lint Filter for Dryer

  • Customer: Diane from Rancho Cucamonga CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 26 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
Went to 3 big appliances stores - Not one carried any type of Lint Filter for Dryer. Went on line & typed in Lint Filter for Dryer in search bar. Part Select came up. Went thru site to ordering - Part Select made so easy to order. You just type in your Manufacture name & they instruct you step by step how to find model number & type of filter you need. So Easy. Very economical. I ordered & within 4 days I had my filter. I used 7-14 day delivery & was so pleased I had my filter within 4 days. Parts Select sent me email verifying my order as well as email when the part shipped.
Wonderful Customer Service. I will definitely use Part Select for any need part on any appliance.
Easy - Economical & One Stop Shopping. Love it

Loads in the dryer took a very long time to dry often needing two full cycles to completely dry.

  • Customer: Rod from Galveston TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 29 of 43 people found this instruction helpful
First, I moved the dryer out where it would be easily accessable. I then removed the back of the dryer using a nut driver. Once this was complete, I removed the cover holding the heating element. I disconnected the two wires and puled the old element out. I replaced it with the new heating element and reconnected the two wires. I then replace the back cover and moved the dryer back in place. The dryer works and heats much better now. Thankyou

Wet Clothes after two drying cycles

  • Customer: Paul from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 16 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Replacing the Heating Element was the natural solution after I determined that the element had separated. First loosen the top panel and remove the lockdown clamp from the top of the Heating Element sleeve. Lean the dryer forward onto towels to avoid any scratches in the porceline. Remove the back panel of the dryer, and disconnect the six wires, then remove the Heating Element sleeve. Remove the screw holding the defective Heating Element and replace it with the new one. Reassemble in "reverse order" making certain that you attach the wires correctly and align all the panels squarely.

had to replace the motor

  • Customer: charles from parker CO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 20 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
Follow the advice given in the partsselect website. However, while removing the blower, my hand slipped into the housing and cut my thumb. Connected the wires to the junction box on the motor but didn't realize that the contacts would hit the drum when reinstalled. The original junction box was at a 90 degree rotation relative to the new box. When trying to test the breaker tripped. Using the multitester I found out that I burned out the thermal fuse, and froze the door switch. I replace both those parts and started the dryer and could hear a grinding sound. Inspection revealed that the housing of the motor was rubbing against the drum. Removing the drum yet again, I rotated the housing and replaced the drum. The dryer was finally working well.
All Instructions for the 1106808501
1-15 of 391