1106708611 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

all that was required was to push the catch into the slot notools needed.

It had been making noise for a week and I bought the two drum support rollers hoping that was the problem. It wasn't as the dryer started shutting down after a few minutes of running. I opened the top of the dryer and removed the 2 screws holding the face and door on. I removed the face and disconnected the door switch wires and released the drum belt by pushing on the idler pully. I then removed the drum straight out the top. I then put a wrench on the fan on the back of the motor and unscrewed it and then released the two holdown clamps on the motor and removed the motor. I had to make a couple of wiring modifications for the new motor but the instructions and connectors that came with the motor were perfect. I put everything back together and plugged the dryer back in and tried to start it and .... Nothing. I forgot to reconnect the door switch wires. Fixed that and the dryer now runs as good as new and makes no noise at all now (almost anyway). It should be good for another 10 years easy.

My dryer started squeaking and I thought it was the drum rollers, so I bought a set. When I attempted the repair and got as far as removing the dryer drum and I decided to spin the shaft on the motor and that was where the squealing was coming from. I put the rollers on and reassembled the dryer. One day later the motor seized up. Ordered a new motor and installed it with no problems. The nut on the back of the motor ended up being a 20mm wrench. Motor cost me $105.56 and the maintenance kit (ps37308) (2 rollers,4 clips, button clip, new idler pulley and belt) cost $32.08. It cost a total of $137.64 in repairs with no labor costs and I accomplished it in under an hour. Minor handyman skills needed or find a friend who is handy. My dryer is 14 years old and now is running like new again. I used the 50% rule, if a repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new machine, replace it, if the repair can be done for less than 50% of the cost of a new on, fix it.

I disconnected the dryer from the electric. I removed the lid to the dryer by first removing the lint door screws and prying the lid off properly. Disconnected the wires to the door switch. Removed the screws from inside the door and carefully removed teh actuator. Seperated the actuator from the switch and replaced the broken actuator. Reinstalled the actuator and switch and screwed the assembly back in place. Reconnected the wires, lowered the dryer lid and screwed the lint door screws back in place. It Worked perfectly.

found a video online and followed the instructions. First unplug dryer, then take off back cover with a 1/4 inch socket unscrew the 5 screws from the cover and remove back. Then with a ohms meter you have to check to see what terminals are bad. In my case it was the heating element. So, next you go to top of dryer and unscrew the lint trap so you can lift the top of dryer and remove the bracket holding the housing where the element is located. First take off the leads that are connected to the element and housing unit. Then gently lift housing unit up off the hinges and pull it out. Then turn over and there is another screw that holds the heating element in. After unscrewed the element pulls right out and then just put new element in and reverse everything.

I follow the instructions from the video you guys show the only issue is putting back the tensioner in place but my brother leaves next door and help me.

Undid the back, remove wires going to element, unscrew lint trap, pop the top and undid the nut-screw holding the element housing. pulled out the bad element and did everything in reverse with the new element... unplug it first though because I left that step out.

re-placed screen

followed directions that came with order confirmation e-mail

Opened new package took item out and put it on the slot where the old filter was. Easy as pie. My dryer is 46 years old and works just fine.

First unplug appliance, Remove dryer top and front. remove drum and belt. Two clamps hold motor in place. remove them and lint chute housing in rear, exposing the fan. Use vice grips to hold motor shaft behind belt pulley flat spot. Remove fan, it's reverse threads. A large adjustable wrench on plastic fan nut and spray lubricant if very tight. Place new motor next to old and switch wires over, crimp on new 1/8'' connectors. Remember the green ground wire may need an allen wrench. Put back drum,belt, lube the rollers and replace back cover, front, top.

Jimmied out the latch using two screw drivers to get under the edges. Pushed the new piece in. Voila! Took 2 minutes for what my repair man told me would cost about $200 to fix. Unbelievable!!( I first watched some YouTube videos to get the idea )

I watched a U Tube video about banging sound from dryer. Once I recognized the problem, lifted the top, removed 2 screws holding the front, removed the drum, and bingo. Saw the worn out drum roller. Ordered the replacement parts from "PartSelect" on line (Great Company). Was in no hurry, so I chose regular mail delivery. 4 days later, got the correct replacement parts, put the dryer back together, and now, the dryer is quieter then when I bought it new, a thousand years ago. I will never again be afraid to tackle an appliance issue. THANK YOU !!!

Had to replace the rear felt seal and the motor. It was no problem to find videos on how to do both of these repairs. Took apart the appliance. When the parts came first replaced the drum rear felt seal and waited for the motor to be delivered. Then replaced the motor as per online instructions. Also went to Home Depot to buy a new flexible dryer tube since the old one had a few holes. It works perfectly again.

simple repair, pop the dryer lid, remove the screw for the front of the door. install cable and spring and then reassemble.

The only task that took some time was remembering to take out the screws for the lint port prior to lifting the lid.