11066522501 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Diagnosed problem , orders parts . Installed parts

I watched the video on this site and it went exactly as described, fixed it and it sounds like a new dryer. Was going to junk it, glad I didn't!

PROBLEM: Intermittently, the dryer would not advance on the Auto Dry setting and would stay at max heat continuously, even after 2.5 hours with the clothes dry and very warm. At first, I replaced the CYCLING THERMOSTAT, which DID NOT correct this issue. Then I also found the 60 Minute Timed dry setting would work fine until the end of the cycle and the dryer would stop like it should. Then, I checked back 10-15 minutes later and found the timer had advanced into Fluff Dry Timed cycle with heater on full, but the dryer not moving air. This caused the Thermo-Cut switch (fuse) off to open and the Heater Element would not put out enough heat to dry the clothes. TROUBLESHOOTING: 1- UNPLUG the dryer for all troubleshooting and set the DVM for OHMS ( or use ohm-meter). 2- Both the Cycling Thermostat and High Limit Thermostat checked good at 0 ohms (dryer unplugged). The entire Thermo Cut-off/Thermostat circuit can be checked at the Timer (VERIFY proper wire color with dryer schematic in top console), which also verifies the wires are good and should be 0 ohms without the Heater Element in the circuit. For the Whirlpool WED5300SQ0 dryer, it's the Red and Orange wires at the Timer. 3- If the Heater Element is in the circuit (see schematic for test points), look for between 8-12 ohms for a good Heater Element. For the Whirlpool WED5300SQ0 dryer, it's the Red and White/Black wires at the Timer or across the Heater Element connection. SOLUTION: The Heater Element checked out good at 10 ohms. When the Heater Element was physically removed from the dryer one of the PORCELAIN MOUNTS was BUSTED, which caused the heater element coil to intermittently come in contact with the dryer housing while running/drying clothes, which caused the Timer to not advance on Auto Dry when the Cycling Thermostat Opened and malfunction for the Timed Dry settings. To physically check the Heater Element, just remove the 2 screws and the wires to the High Limit Thermostat can stay hooked up. The Thermo-Cut off kit is easy to install and there is a installation video if there are questions. Just be careful to NOT cut the Heater Element connector on the Jumper wire kit. The spade connector for the heater element is wider than the other side that is cut off for the dual spade connector. The Heater Element is easy to replace as well. If the Thermo-Cutoff Kit is being installed, the new High Limit Thermostat can be mounted to the new Heater Element before it is mounted to the dryer housing, which makes it easier to screw in the self-tapping screws. After this repair was completed, dryer has functioned perfectly after many loads of clothes using all dryer settings.

I was pretty sure it was the heating element. I watched two different Youtube videos. Once I cleaned up all of the trash and coins behind the dryer, it was just a matter of removing the screws from the back. I disconnected the wires, replaced the element, and reconnected everything and replaced all of the screws. It works perfectly again!

I won't tell you how we did it, but I'll tell you the right way. Unplug. Remove the exhaust tubing attached to back of dryer. Pry the top up from the front and lean it against the wall. Un plug the wires attached to the front panel (remember where they go) Remove screws at top sides of front panel. "lift up" and remove. Close top. Lay machine on its back. We used a couple of 2x4's to lay it on so as not to crush the vest collar. Clean it out, including lint filter. The new belt wraps around the drum, you will see the channel about midway on drum. Feel behind the motor on the lower right side. There is a shaft with a channel for the belt. Immediately next to that is another pulley type arm with another channel for the belt. This arm moves stiffly and puts tension on the belt when installed correctly. Look at the diagram included with the new belt which shows the path of the belt. Wrap the belt, ridges against the drum and then around the motor shaft. At this point you have to physically pull the last arm out to allow the belt to wrap around the channel provided. If the belt is not twisted , the job is done. Turn the drum with your hands to make sure it is turning properly. Replace the front panel, plug in the electricals, replace the screws making sure the drum is properly centered. Stand up the dryer. Plug in and turn on dryer to make sure everything is right. Replace the exhaust tubing and set into place. Sounds like a lot of steps but I have described the whole process for you beginners. The rest of you will know already. Good Luck . Oh by the way we are 69 and 71. If we can do it, so can you

I purchased the maintenance kit and followed the video on part select.com. Replacing the drum wheels, pully and belt was not difficult. I probably found enough coins in the dryer to pay for the maintenance kit. The only tricky part was getting the cap on the end of the axle. It requires a bit of force applied evenly.

Door latch or kill switch. Rewarding experience to fix on own.

Unplug the dryer, remove hot air duct. Remove metal dryer back to access thermostat using a nut driver. Unscrew one screw holding on thermostat, detach 4 wires, and replace with new unit, attaching 4 wires to new unit. Then reverse process to button up the dryer. Great how-to video on your site helped a lot!

I took off all the back plates of dryer. (2 sets). Then I took off the heating element. It appeared to be in tact but had some blackening coloration on plate. Ordered new part, replaced the element (tested before I put the back plates back on) and it worked perfectly again. I was especially happy with Parts Select because I ordered the part on a Sunday night and it arrived on Tuesday at noon (regular shipping)!!

Unplugged dryer. Removed control panel end caps, removed anchor screw at each end of control panel that had been covered by end cap. Tilted control panel up to access components on back side. Using tech sheet found inside contol panel, swapped motor relay with heater relay (they're identical). Plugged dryer back in, pushed start switch; dryer continued to run (problem identified). Unplugged dryer; replaced relays to original positions. Ordered new power relay (p/n 3405281). Installed new relay when it arrived, plugged dryer in, tested it. Dryer worked normally (problem fixed). Unplugged dryer, reinstalled control panel anchor screws and end caps. Plugged dryer back in. Dryer continues to work normally.

after process of elimination ,figured had to be cut off switch followed simple instructions also watched your video..simple repair up and working again approx. 30 min. once i had kit. thanx 4 the help MIKE

I watched the video several times to make sure I got it right. The first thing that was very helpful was how to disassemble the top cover and front panel using a putty knife to disengage the detents. With the cover off I could acccess the belt and idler pulley. Replacing the belt was fairly easy as long as you note the way it threads through the idler pulley and drive pulley. I thought the video was excellent. It took me right to the problem and the fix. As a bonus the price for the belt was much lower from Parts Supply then from Sears. I've recommended this site to several others.

Just as your helpfull diagram of the dryer said, removed the rear panel,there it was, i recongnised it by the part you sent, pull it out of it's position, had a little truble figuring out the piece that fits on where the electric prongs are, after looking found out the piece was held on with a clip that goes inside the housing, Haaa. the rest was easy. Thanks,It works great. Dick

First I purchased the heating element, still no heat. Then I purchased the thermal fuse,still no heat. I have been pleased with the prompt shipment of the parts and the parts arrived safe. Thank you for service and time, not sure what to do now.I will recommend PartSelect to friends.

Unplug unit / removed back cover / went down , locating both parts to be replaced / simple one screw removal from each part / thermal fuse , one wire @ a time , reinstalled . / Cycling thermostat , 4 wires. Did one wire @ a time , reinstalled. / Putted back cover back on , plugged dryier back up, turned it on to run. To check for heat / yes, ran good as new. Later that day some more running , with damp clothes in it. Did it's job , dry.