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11066112500 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11066112500
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Dryer would not heat
First I removed the two wires from the overheat fuse, then I removed the 1 screw and removed the fuse. I installed the new overheat fuse and attached with 1 screw, then reconnected the 2 wires. I attached the back cover with two screws and tested the dryer. It was working, so I finished attaching the back with the remaining screws and exhaust duct. Installation complete.
Note: Two weeks later I had to replace the fuse again because I had checked the duct pipe and exhaust chute, but not the bottom at the fan. Be sure to remove the flat exhaust duct and check for bulid-up at the bottom under the fan.
Parts Used:
Thermal Cut-Off Kit
  • Gary from Seguin, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
20 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
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Drum was binding because of worn bearing supporting front of dryer drum
First I unplugged the dryer for safety, then I removed the top of the dryer, then removed the 2 hex head screws holding the font door panel onto the dryer. Then I disconnected the door safety switch. the rest was cake. I removed the old bearing and cut the new bearing and seal to the exact size of the old one. I used contact cement to glue the new bearing and seal into place. Reassembly was a breeze. End of job. Success!!!
Parts Used:
Bearing and Seal Kit
  • Leslie from Townsend, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
22 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer sounded like I was strangling a dog
First, I watched a utube video of replacing the dryer belt. Then I went to Sears Hardware and couldn't find a part. Then I ordered the parts for my favorite online repair parts source - partselect.com. I had the part in one day! We did exactly what the video showed and also replaced the two wheels that looked like roller blade wheels. Piece of cake. Saved a $75 repair call plus whatever the parts would have been and spent about 20 minutes doing it. Back in business. Great for a 12 year old dryer! Buy the dryer kit!
Parts Used:
Maintenance Kit
  • Lynda from Syracuse, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer not working
After unplugging and removing the back cover from the dryer, locate the push button switch. Slide putty knife around outer cover to unhook catch. Replace with new push button switch. My dryer is still not working, but this was a simple replacement.
Parts Used:
Push-To-Start Switch
  • Maura from Newtown, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
22 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
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Broken push to stat switch
Removed back cover, removed broken switch, replaced with new switch, replaced back cover, told wife her dryer was fixed.
Parts Used:
Push-To-Start Switch
  • Charles from Fairfax, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
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Squeaky Dryer
I looked for squeaky dryer within parts select and went with the 80%. I received the Maintenance Kit, replaced two rollers and it works like new. Amazing since this is the first time I have ever opened a dryer. The instruction sheet and parts were all I needed.
Parts Used:
Maintenance Kit
  • Daniel from Hamilton, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
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Drum spinning but no heat
Purchased thermal cut off kit but only replaced the top most thermostat. There were some extra wires wired into the bottom thermostat, that were not described on the video or any other repair user posts. It checked fine on my multimeter anyway.
Parts Used:
Thermal Cut-Off Kit
  • Chad from Derby, KS
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
19 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
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Getting to hot and shutting off after 20 minutes
I watched the installation video on both parts before I purchased them and it was a piece-of-cake after that.
Parts Used:
Dryer High Limit Thermostat Dryer Cycling Thermostat
  • William from `Omak, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
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Lint screen torn
Lint screen on my 30-year dryer was torn. Ordered the new screen here with just the part number, fits well. Very helpful website.
Parts Used:
Lint Filter
  • James from Glenside, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
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Door catch on dryer door broke
PartSelect sent me three different door catches with instructions for choosing the correct one. I did choose and simply inserted it into the slot and voile! All finished and it works great now! PartSelect had the part delivered the day after my order was placed. I would suggest doing business with them to anyone asking who they might contact for a part. I especially appreciated the ease of identifying and ordering from them. I was able to do all of this on-line via their website.
Parts Used:
Door Catch Kit
  • Lynne from Jamestown, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dead motor
1. Shut off gas and disconnected dryer.
2. Opened cabinet. Easy sheet metal screws and fairly obvious how everything goes together. NB: You'll need a block (or a helper to hold things while you run to look for one) to hold the drum while removing the front.
3. The motor is connected with a single harness, so wiring is a snap.
4. Removing the blower wheel from the back was hard. I braced the motor shaft and turned with all the leverage I could muster, but it was stuck. Plan B: Recip saw to cut the shaft. Motor comes out one side and the fan comes out the other.
5. The fan, of course, was unusable because there was still a piece of motor shaft stuck in the thread. This is why I had to spring for a new wheel.
6. Put everything back together and receive wife's adoring praise...
Parts Used:
Dryer Blower wheel
  • Robert from Glencoe, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
17 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
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Change dryer belt
I opened up the dryer as per the instructions I had received from PartSelect tech support. It was very easy to do. The only unexpected thing was that the original belt had snapped and in doing so the idler pulley was actually laying on the floor of the dryer's bottom. I had to figure out how it went, but that only took a minute and I popped it back into place. I held the drum by hand while pulling the dryer face away so it wouldn't fall and then I slipped the belt over the drum and quickly closed the front up again. I aligned the belt on the spot where the old one had been, pulled it through the idler pulley and over the motor and voila. Done. I closed up the dryer and was on to another "Honey Do" project within 20 minutes.
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Scott from Bayport, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer door would not latch
my dryer door didn't latch for over a year. We were accustom to proping large objects against it. a friend told me to look on line. The close up pictures and parts diagrams were awesome. It was here in 4 days . Now my family thinks I am a hero. The end
Parts Used:
Door Catch
  • Robert from Livermore, ME
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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The dryer belt broke. During the effort to replace the belt it was noted that the lint trap housing seals were in need of replacement.
With the dryer taken apart to replace the broken belt it was obvious that the lint seals had not been working properly due to the excessive amount of lint covering all of the inside surfaces of the dryer. The belt idler pully had also moved from its normal mounting position and was laying at the bottom of the dryer. Because the lint had covered the bottom before the belt broke it was obvious to determine where the idler pully attached to the bottom.

Before cleaning I marked the exact location where the idler pully mounted to the bottom of the dryer.

While waiting for the replacement parts to be delivered a vacuum cleaner was used to remove lint from the inside surfaces of the dryer as well as the old fragments of the lint trap housing seals were removed and surfaces where the new seals would attach were cleaned.

Assembling the dryer with the new belt was a challenge due to the lack of support for the drum while getting the new belt in place, lined up properly, threaded through the idler pully and attached to the motor drive shaft. This is how I installed the new belt:

I used a piece of wood wider than the sides of the dryer, drilled holes that allowed for a piece of cloths line rope to be looped through and used to support the door opening end of the drum.

The drum was set on the seal and rollers at the back of the dryer.

The temporary wood /rope hanger was placed at the front end of the dryer resting on the sides with the top of the dryer raised.

The rope was adjusted until the drum rested on the back rollers and the rope like it would be positioned normally.

The new belt was then gently installed under the temporary support rope and around the drum.

The new belt had many kinks from shipping and was difficult to align with the location on the drum where it needs to ride so small strips of tape were temporarily used to hold the new belt in position until it could be fed through the idler pully and on to the drive shaft.

Several small pieces of a cardboard box were used to shim under the idler pully to hold it in its proper location as well as to make the belt attachment to the drive shaft easier.

With the belt attached, the temporary cardboard shims were removed from under the idler pully.

The front of the dryer was attached .

The temporary board and rope hanger was removed.

The tape that had been placed over the new belt to hold it in proper alignment was removed as the drum was rotated slowly by hand to ensure that all tape was removed prior to closing the top of the dryer.

The seals as well as the remainder of the dryer assembly was completed without any problems.

The dryer ran well for its initial trial spin and has dried several loads of laundry since.

Great parts and support Thankyou
Parts Used:
SEAL Lint Trap Housing Seal Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Benjamin from WELLS, ME
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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the drum was not turning because a broken belt
I lifted the top of the dryer cabinet, like the hood of a car using a screwdriver to pry it open. I removed the two screws in the upper right corner of the cabinet front. I disconnected the safty switch on the front door. The front of the cabinet can then be removed by lifting up the front off the pins in the base. With the drum exposed you can place the belt on and thread it through the two pulleys on the motor. Consult the diagrams provided on the PartsSelect website for the proper positioning of the belt on the pulleys. After the belt is installed spin the drum by hand one turn to make sure that it is seated properly on the drum and pulleys. Reassemble the dryer in the reverve order.
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • thomas from bloomfield, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the 11066112500
76 - 90 of 1888